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The timing belt comes off so easy I drive it there with a socket on a cordless drill. I also have used a hand pump and pump it up ether where the lite or PSI sender go. very easy say on a nord not so easy on the v6. And as soon as the hand pump starts to get hard to pump I pop in the sender and hit ...

At one point there were thought to be the best. I have taken old green viton that was a good as new off old worn down motors. The main thing as far as I know the guides are different for the Teflon Valve Stem Seals and they can be a tad taller that can be a problem with hi lift cams The green viton ...

Well my $0.02 is to take the long one with the hole in it on the right and weld up that hole with out buggering the threads. then clean up the old one and run. and toss the thermo crap thing in the trash. do a search on slipped belts and time and time again you will see all the slipped happened with...

just got a thought. as you can't seem to find any one to balance. you might see if you can get one of the guys that do the prop on small airplanes. they do it in place with a few marks and a vibe sender and a optical mark going in to a laptop, rev it up and down place some weights and done.. I do no...

If it is out of balance you should feel it. and I would say use the old trick Tom showed me. mark the shaft on 1/4s and put on a hose clamp. rev it up and down and move the screw part of the clamp to each of the 4 spots and leave it where you get the least amount of vibration. do this to each end of...

I think it might have been hammered off. if there is some play and it starts to bang back and forth it will sheer the splines. I think that is why alfa calls for the splines to be filled with locktight on the std setup. so there can be no movement at all.

interesting I did not know that. I know rollers were different to compensate for the rolling contact surface, but I did not know there was any difference for a hydraulic vs mechanical as I thought the valve just followed the lobe and the hydraulic just takes up any slack making for a more or less pe...

One thing I noticed is that all 3 seem to be on one single shaft. I think they might bind under temp as the thing expand. I would think it would need one or two of couplers that let the shafts expand a tad per bank. unless there is something hidden I can't see. I thought 2 close together like in a c...

if I may go back a few pages before a coolant pump thing. back to the hydraulic lifters "lifters start pumping up at that particular RPM" 7800 or whatever I thought they pumped down and you lose lift? What would happen if if you take a hydraulic and shim it to have the clearance for a flat...

grant just got a 24V if you tell me the pins I might be able to put a scope on it the next time he is over.

Might look at what I did here. This is a 12V but the trigger wheel stuff is the same

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine- ... verde.html

As a rule if you are not tuning then it is best to use what ever your tuner is used to. The cost of dyno/tuner time will out cost any ECU. and it is silly to pay some one to lean a new system. There are exceptions like I see with the stock LS tuners in the states. where any decent ECU would save a t...

hmm that is different then I have been told. what little of know of metallurgy is a steel if not stressed past a certain point will have a almost Infinite life span (not counting things like rust) but metals like aluminum start to go as soon as there are cast and there is nothing you can do about it...

I have to agree I like the pic.
BTW do you run with any kind of CAT?

I would check if the TPS is backwards. are you using a 164 or a 75 buterfly?
was the wires cut and spliced? the power and ground might be swapped on the TPS

TPS might just be bad. what is the TPS voltage closed and WOT?

something like this ?
http://www.gearvendors.com/install.html