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...so how did you make those two little dot over the'u'? That's pretty cool. Yeah they are expensive most (but not all) of the time. At least the stuff I get from them is nice quality. I'd rather it be good and expensive than cheap and shi++y! The saleman stops by and you buy, no going out looking f...

The Wruth fuel hose MB 7.5mm smooth is #18959230. The clamps I have been using are GEMIE clamps 13mm gold MB #054113.

Perhaps you should look here:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfetta ... valve.html

I am waiting for the correct hose to come in and see if the packers got it right the second time...

http://www.wurthusa.com I just got some in the other day, BUT the packer packed the wrong hose... I'll check on the PN and let you know as I will be calling tomorrow! It 'lists' for 22.xx per meter, but 'costs' 17.xx / meter. Any foreign dealership should be able to point you to the WRUTH guy or ha...

Personally, I MUCH prefer to use the HP line everywhere. The cost savings is not worth the PITA of changing the low press line in a few years when it starts to crack. I get my hose from Wruth - either VW, BMW, or Mercedes hose. It is 7.5mm so it fits really nice, not like the 8mm/5/16" hose whi...

The hose was connected to the bottom of the oil vapor seperator. There was a rubber tube that went from the vapor seperator to the oil pump. I friend lost an engine when the rubber tube coiled itself around the pump pick up.

Spider and V6 synchro 'dog teeth' are different. The V6 ones have a larger internal diameter (where it is pressed onto the gear). The sychro rings and the sliders are the same. That's it. The late v6's and Milanos have an improved 1st gear synchro design for improved shifting into 1st gear (You woul...

I have never had a 'kinking' problem trying to make the hose run in its factory locations. I use real metric hose from Wruth, 12mm for the feed and 7.5 mm high pressure for everything else. American 5/16" (8mm) doesn't fit the lines tight in the first place and the hose clamps generally have to...

The stock exhaust manifolds 'look' the same at first glance, but the 3.0 ones are bigger. The do however interchange fine. The 2.5 one have a 116 part number and the 3.0's start with 195.

The blocks have a 2.5 or 3.0 cast into them but it is behind the starter and you will have to remove it to find out. Barring that, you could measure the stroke very easily...

Of course putting it on the track period is not a smart move. You do not HAVE to run the event. Running the cooling system 'open' is not recipe for overheating. As long as you water temp stays under 200F (with pure water) you will be fine. Pressure helps keep the coolant from boiling up to about 240...

Just to be clear...If you EVER have your engine jump time with the 'new' style tensioner, DO NOT just reset it. Replace the tensioner and destroy the 'skipped' one. It doen not matter if the spring is OK or not. I have had a lot with a broken spring that worked fine, and skipped ones that looked per...

You could try and loosen the cap so no pressure will build up. I have been doing that with my 164 until I got a chance to fix it (bad heater core, several bad hoses) and I could not believe the condition of some of the hoses(several small pinholes). If I left the cap loose, I would have to fill the ...

For what it is worth... I have a friend who races a 911 in vintage. He has spent over $20K on the engine and he told me a lot of Porsche owners are using the Pauter rods because Carillo rods have been breaking at high rpm (I believe 8500-9000) and that Pauter rods are OK. I do not know the specifics...

I tried to ask several people about this and most that knew regarded it as 'secret' info and would not tell me. I had one balanced at 35% and it is fine. I spoke to Dennis Black (Don Black's son) and he said it was 'probably' around 42-45%. In talking to my machine shop, they said you would probably...