Search found 1734 matches
Its only been 4 years Ben, hahah! They are long gone. However, I have been regrinding customers' 24v cams for a few years now. They send me the cams and I have them reground to a couple profiles I came up with. Cost is 450€+shipping, which for Au is ~80€, so total is 530€. If you don't have your own...
If you do trackdays, do your engine a big favor and install a crank scraper from Ishihara-Johnson. Additionally, you may opt for some kind of slosh-baffle. Here is what I have in my 3.2 engine. The scraper has the Teflon-edge option which you must very carefully cut yourself so that the rotating par...
- Mon Apr 16, 2018 10:46 am
- Forum: Engine
- Topic: GTA crank and 164 12V crank pulley
- Replies: 9
- Views: 1184
Stop playing with 3D stuff here, IT WILL DISINTEGRATE with the required 150Nm torque on the nut! Make a proper washer out of sheet steel or make one on a lathe.
Easier said than done. Static balance is NOT enough. You must copy the dynamic balance and this will require some fabrication of a means to mount the flywheel on the balancer, plus an arm with a variable/movable weight on it which is to be mounted on the flywheel to achieve zero imbalance during the...
Yes, this is my preferred way of doing it. I did the same with s 10mm spacer I had to use in my engine for the sandwich plate. In addition, I also had a lip machined inside to positively center it. No other means of fixing were used, just pressure from the sandwich plate center oil fitting. So, ther...
I was right then when I fixed a laser pointer on the 24v flywheel and moved engine mounts around a bit (by enlarging slots). However, I figured that under power, The gearbox nose moves up, so I aimed for ~10mm higher than the bellhousing center. Still works great, no vibes. 8) Merry Christmas everyo...
Yes, that's no BS. I recently built a 24v and put on it a rwd flywheel from a gtv6. The 3 stud bosses are HALF EATEN on one side due to the repeated impact of the 3 driveshaft bolts/nuts. But strangely enough, it is NOT the side of rotation! I wonder under what conditions this contact occurred. If y...
Hah! You must have made several of these, as they look almost exactly the same with the set you sent me several years ago, but not identical. I can tell from comparing the welding seam details with the pics side-by-side. Lots of water under the bridge since then...
While you're at it, can you get some wheel-power figures before and after remap? I'm starting to collect data on 3.2 dyno runs from anyone who has and is willing to divulge. I would appreciate a list of what else is on the engine (free-flow filters, different airbox, headers etc.)
Long shot here, but are your injectors matched? For na engines they should be within ±2% worst case and even better for performance engines Consider that for turbo they should be even better than ±0.5%! You are reading the overall afr, which says nothing of the individual cylinders...just a thought....
- Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:02 am
- Forum: Engine
- Topic: 3.2 V6 - removing the oil filter heat exchanger
- Replies: 34
- Views: 10912
Quick way to remove: Find a strip of aluminum ~60x 20mm and ~1,5-2mm thick, wrap/bend around fitting and grab with wrench. Wrench digs into alloy which bites hard against the fitting and out it comes, no marks, no damage! Think simple, works every time.