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Rothmans!

Very nice, I'd add one more tube per side though - from the main hoop where the upper door bar hits, to the rear leg base (gives a load transfer path from the door bars to somehwere usefull). I'd also add a bar accross the main hoop where that bend is half way up - stops the legs bowing out if you p...

I've got a spreadsheet that i've been messing with (care of another forum with some guys who really know their shit, and I've asked a question or two) and should have some usefull answers to this soon.

Mats wrote:Loaded batteries and emptied mamory cards!

Pics of Mamories?

two ways of doing it - spacer between block and sump and move the steering rack, or spacer between main part of sump and bottom plate.

Here's the pic Kev sent me of the spacer plate:

kevin wrote:A 60-2 pickup sensor is used but as soon as you press the ring onto the pulley it either touches the cam belt or waterpump pully so both ahd to be machined. The pickup only needs a 3mm area so i was well within limits.

Is the pickup ring from a 164 pulley?

So, Aussie 164s all got v-belts and I need a multi-rib with the 60-2 toothed ring for my 24valve conversion - the engine i've got has the cas picking up off the flywheel.
Who's got one they want to part with?

Like so - seen it done on more than one occasion - and on stock engine management (the pictured car is clearly not stock)

So you could do like the BMW blokes and run a bunch of transformer type coils and leads on an otherwise stock motronic setup?

Sorry, I meant are the 164 coil packs a dumb coil?

Ah FFS. rear mounted CAS on my 98 motor.

However - looks like it might simply be a case of putting on the right pulley, mounting the CAS bracket from a 12valve motronic motor to the front cover, and bobs your uncle.

Hmmm... that may be annoying.
will have to check what my 98 GTV v6 motor has.

...is it still 60-2 ? Jim K. Yes, the late Busso engines which run the crank angle sensor against the flywheel have the same 60-2 tooth arrangement. I am running a 2002 engine with a 164 crank pulley and 164 front sump cover. The 164 24V front sump cover does not bolt to the pan correctly, yet, doe...

Guys, I'm slowly trying to spot weld the seams in the engine bay. I figured, it can only help stiffen the front end. Especially the seams at the shock towers. Finally found the correct heat setting for my MIG welder so that the beads would actually not be too big (not hot enough originally). Has an...

Spoke with Dan about v6ing a 4cyl at some length on the weekend - the front stud on the 4cyl mounting is in the same position as the rear stud on the 6cyl mounts - the trick is you fab up (or chop out of a balled up 75 or 90) a half mount and weld it to the front of the 4cyl chassis mount. I should ...