Wires attaching FlyBack board to main board?
Hi Guys:
My MS project is underway. I bought this unit assembled and tested and the Flyback board is included. Is seems to work OK - I have tested with the Stimulator board.
The 1st issue I'm running into is that the wires which the builder used to connect the Flyback board to the main MS board are pretty thick - so thick that when the insulation is removed, the copper ‘bundle’ cannot pass through the holes in the main board. To 'solve' this, the builder trimmed off some of the copper filaments and soldered the remainder to the board (I think the photo illustrates this OK). This has made the connections way too brittle to be reliable. In fact, the red lead has already come adrift.
My question is whether I can replace these thick wires with thinner ones so that the entire copper 'bundle' can be soldered to the main board? Surely, the weak link in the chain (electrically) are the thin copper tracks on the MS board, not the wires which connect the main board to the FlyBack board?
I’d like to get some special wire which uses much thinner filaments and is for that reason more flexible and conductive. What have other MS builders used?
I know I can wire the black (-) wire to the case and the red (+) wire to the MS terminal 28/LJet terminal 29 so its just the remaining 4 I need to figure out.
Cheers,
My MS project is underway. I bought this unit assembled and tested and the Flyback board is included. Is seems to work OK - I have tested with the Stimulator board.
The 1st issue I'm running into is that the wires which the builder used to connect the Flyback board to the main MS board are pretty thick - so thick that when the insulation is removed, the copper ‘bundle’ cannot pass through the holes in the main board. To 'solve' this, the builder trimmed off some of the copper filaments and soldered the remainder to the board (I think the photo illustrates this OK). This has made the connections way too brittle to be reliable. In fact, the red lead has already come adrift.
My question is whether I can replace these thick wires with thinner ones so that the entire copper 'bundle' can be soldered to the main board? Surely, the weak link in the chain (electrically) are the thin copper tracks on the MS board, not the wires which connect the main board to the FlyBack board?
I’d like to get some special wire which uses much thinner filaments and is for that reason more flexible and conductive. What have other MS builders used?
I know I can wire the black (-) wire to the case and the red (+) wire to the MS terminal 28/LJet terminal 29 so its just the remaining 4 I need to figure out.
Cheers,
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Last edited by Michael on Sat Jan 01, 2005 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Michael,
That thick wire certainly looks dodgy and by cutting strands of wire defeats the purpose of using heavier guage wire. All the wires I used passed through as a "bundle". I have had no problems with wires getting hot., etc. I agree, the circuit board tracks are much thinner than even a thin copper wire.
I would take them out and replace with thinner "complete wire".
David
That thick wire certainly looks dodgy and by cutting strands of wire defeats the purpose of using heavier guage wire. All the wires I used passed through as a "bundle". I have had no problems with wires getting hot., etc. I agree, the circuit board tracks are much thinner than even a thin copper wire.
I would take them out and replace with thinner "complete wire".
David
1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red
Flyback board wires
The flyback board instructions suggest 20-22ga jumper wire. I followed these directions and the wires are a bit too stiff. I suggest 20-22ga *stranded* wire. I haven't tried it yet, but I think the stranded wire will still fit through the small holes in the pc board.
Bill in MD
Bill in MD
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
Re: Flyback board wires
Hi Bill:bmacf wrote:The flyback board instructions suggest 20-22ga jumper wire. I followed these directions and the wires are a bit too stiff. I suggest 20-22ga *stranded* wire. I haven't tried it yet, but I think the stranded wire will still fit through the small holes in the pc board.
Bill in MD
Have you found any online sources for this "*stranded*" wire?
I've searched locally without much success.
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
re: 22 ga. stranded wire
Michael, Actually I got my stranded wire at Radio Shack. Be careful, its hard to tell their solid wire from the stranded wire the way its labeled (small print).
I decided to use stranded wire on all the wires from the main board up to the stim board. I've been taking the box apart so often with the R10 changes that the solid wires started to break.
to Joey, next time I open up my MS box I'll try to take some better alt. fuel pump circuit pictures. Unfortunately I put some silicone goo on the components so they wouldn't vibrate and fail - I'll see what I can do.
Bill in MD
MS on 3.0 Milano still has tach spikes.
Michael, Actually I got my stranded wire at Radio Shack. Be careful, its hard to tell their solid wire from the stranded wire the way its labeled (small print).
I decided to use stranded wire on all the wires from the main board up to the stim board. I've been taking the box apart so often with the R10 changes that the solid wires started to break.
to Joey, next time I open up my MS box I'll try to take some better alt. fuel pump circuit pictures. Unfortunately I put some silicone goo on the components so they wouldn't vibrate and fail - I'll see what I can do.
Bill in MD
MS on 3.0 Milano still has tach spikes.
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
Absolutely - I'll take some pics when I get home tonight. Its not too pretty but the fuel pump relay works correctlyjoey wrote:i like your photography mike, do you have any of the fuel pump circuit... i can't see anything on Steve R's guide !
i'm having trouble picturing the inverted transistors.
that zoomed in pic of the fuel circuit would be great! or a link to a good pic if you can't do it.
thanks!
joe
Cheers,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
Hi:
Here are the pics - not quite as clear as I'd like, but I hope they are of some help...
Cheers,
Here are the pics - not quite as clear as I'd like, but I hope they are of some help...
Cheers,
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Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
thanks so much mike, thats so much clearer i have a good idea how to proceed !
thanks again,
joe
ps: i have a problem sourcing the transistors ! i'll post this in a a new thread so i dont mess up this one for you guys... i dont think this will apply to US and UK. But please have a look - someone will surely know!
thanks again,
joe
ps: i have a problem sourcing the transistors ! i'll post this in a a new thread so i dont mess up this one for you guys... i dont think this will apply to US and UK. But please have a look - someone will surely know!
one more thing... Steve R's guide calls for 4 more caps... 2x0.01uF, a 0.1uF and a 0.22uF...
i know that you need one 0.01uF for C12, but i can also see in mike's pic, he also has a 0.01uF cap mounted under the board, did you find this "dave cap" necessary to keep spikes down? or did you just do it anyway? did you try it before and after? any improvement?
i take it the other caps are to up the farads if that doesn't work?
i know that you need one 0.01uF for C12, but i can also see in mike's pic, he also has a 0.01uF cap mounted under the board, did you find this "dave cap" necessary to keep spikes down? or did you just do it anyway? did you try it before and after? any improvement?
i take it the other caps are to up the farads if that doesn't work?
hey mike,
thanks again for those pics, but the thread on the fuel pump mod made me look again at your pic... judging by your q5, i've mounted all my other transistors the same way. maybe i'm way off here, but your q3 looks mounted differently.... shouldn't the curved side be facing us in your pic? it looks to me that your collector is hooked up to the resistor? or is this a non-standard MS transistor (by that i mean PN2222A type) that you put in q3? it looks kinda squarish to me and different to q5...
thanks,
joe
thanks again for those pics, but the thread on the fuel pump mod made me look again at your pic... judging by your q5, i've mounted all my other transistors the same way. maybe i'm way off here, but your q3 looks mounted differently.... shouldn't the curved side be facing us in your pic? it looks to me that your collector is hooked up to the resistor? or is this a non-standard MS transistor (by that i mean PN2222A type) that you put in q3? it looks kinda squarish to me and different to q5...
thanks,
joe