Assembly
Topic for MegaSquirt kit assembly issues.
By Justin on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 07:40 pm:
'BM Spares' in Dendenong Melbourne have spare L-jet ECU's out of old BMW 528's 633's for $55.
By bteoh on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 08:20 pm:
Justin,
Have they got a website or ph. no.?
Thanks.Brian
Perth
By Anonymous on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 08:36 pm:
What are the gains with this BMW ECU..?
By Greg Gordon on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
Zero.
By Justin on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 06:42 pm:
bteoh
BM Spares
PH: 03 9791 - 6822 209 Princes Hwy Dandenong.
There are no gains, the l-jet ecu case in a BMW 528, 633 or 735 is the same as the GTV6 (to build a MegaSquirt inside).
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 10:28 am:
This posted by BB last week. It's a redesign of the main board to integrate the flyback circuit and clean up some other issues...
BB >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
As Al indicated, I am nearing the first pass redesign of the mainboard. There
are a lot of physical placement changes, along with some circuit changes. And,
fixing all of the component footprints to match the parts plus moving to smaller
general packages for caps and resistors. And, there will be some subtle circuit
changes, mainly to add VR capability to the tach input and make the driver stage
"blow-up-proof" (or closer to this goal than it is right now). And I am looking
at adding an uncommitted power stage which could be used for ignition IGBT
experimentation. The transformation of the board to a 4-layer setup is complete,
with nice separation of digital and driver stage grounds. And if I can shoehorn
it in, a LPF + peak&hold stage for a knock circuit. Other items include a
heatsink busbar across the top of the mainboard to hold all of the power
semiconductors, MOV protection of the input power and +5V supply, fix DB
connector backspacing from front panel, and add holes for mechanically securing
processor in socket. And - integrating flyback circuit on mainboard. There will
be new 0.050-ohm resistors in the source leads of the driver FETs which will be
used to drive a bipolar transistor for over-current limiting, and can also be
used to determine PWM parameters.
BB >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
This is good news for assembly and reliablity of the board. Blowing up the output FETs seems to be the #1 failure.
-Peter
By Justin on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 05:38 pm:
Steven R
I have been using your MS guide and have hooked it up to the simulator and a pc and every thing seams to work except for the fuel pump light on the simulator. I have used your fuel pump drive circuit mod. (page 19. version 3.1 your guide) which is probably why the simulator led does not go on. Picture bellow.
I put a multi-meter across the IN4001 diode where it goes into hole 19 on DB37 and I get 0.01v.
My question is how do I know if I have this modification working before I put it into the car? And which way does the IN4001 go around or does it not matter?
By Steve R on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 02:19 am:
Hi Justin,
Sorry about the lack of clarity in that part of the guide (I'm a poor proof reader!) - hope the rest helped.
From memory the fuel pump light on the stim doesn't work after the mod.
I'll have a look at mine when I get home this evening & post what the voltages are, I'll also clarify the orientation of the diode and the upside down transistor... both are important.
By Steve R on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:40 pm:
Hi again Justin,
Just had another look at mine:
The IN4001 orientation is NON-banded end to hole 19 on the DB37. If I look at the upside down transistor from exactly the same orientation as your photo I see the FLAT side of the transistor facing me and the curved side (with the writing) faces away. From the above photo I think yours may be the wrong way around? Q3 looks OK. With this mod the fuel pump LED doesn't light on my board in the car either, but the pump runs fine.
Afraid I can't give you a decent multimeter test on the stim as this mod is purely to interact with the cars L-jet combo relay and not the stim. Check the component orientations as above and you should be OK in the car.
Hope this helps
By Peter Webb on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:49 pm:
You can hot-wire the fuel pump on ignition if you have trouble with it. Just to verify that's what the problem is and to make the car run.
To hot wire the FP, take the connector off the AFM and jumper the 2 right most pins together as standing at the fender looking across the engine bay. You won't have IAT with the cable unplugged. The IAT is in the AFM.
Just use this method as a test procedure.
-Peter (hypocrite with FP hotwired for the last year).
By Justin on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 10:06 pm:
Thanks guys.
I switched it around. Now to setting up the case and wiring it in.
Once I am sure its working I want to get rid of the AFM, is the best place to put the IAT in the plenum or is this too close? (heat will mess with the reading?). Is there anything else I need to consider before removing the AFM?
Steve, your guide has been really helpful and I would not have attempted this without it.
This is what it is going into
By Justin on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
The virtually made hole in the top of the old j-jet case looks like a good place to put the MAP line joiner
By Steve R on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 04:35 am:
Looks good Justin, and as Peter says you can always hot wire the pump to run when the ignition is on !
Slight clarification to my comment last night the fuel pump LED does work in the car - but as I only turned the ignition on but didn't start the car I forgot the LED only stays on for a couple of seconds! It won't won't work on the stim but should be OK in the car.
By Davids on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 01:53 pm:
Justin,
I put the IAT in the new intake closer to the air filter. I used the AFM harness to connect it and the O2 sensor to the MS.
Are you using the Megaview? Here's mine in an old floppy drive carrier. Fits nicely in the tray under the dash.
By Peter Webb on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 02:05 pm:
Hey nice MV install David. Would go nicely where the ashtray is or in place of the radio (real Alfa's make their own music).
I did the same thing with the IAT before I built the custom plenum.
My US spec car already had an O2 sensor so I used the stock wiring for it.
Where/how did you mount the ECU? Stock location in the kick panel?
-Peter
By David S on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 08:24 pm:
Peter,
Yes its back in the stock position. The ashtray position was just too small for the MV without hacking into the surround.
The Boards for the MV bolted togther as per the instructions were a bit bulky.
The cables joining the boards are old PC LED leads. You can buy the 2 row pin blocks for less than a $ and cut them to suit, then solder to the boards.
David
By Justin on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 09:30 pm:
David,
Not using the MV, but it looks cool. Do you think there would be enough room in the L-jet case to mount the MV board and then run some cat5 to the LED on the dash?
My car is AUS spec and I assumed it had a O2 sensor, will have to check it out as Steve’s car did not have one.
Steve & Peter
Thanks, I will hotwire if I have probs. got to find some time to finish this project.
-J
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 12:12 am:
My Pace exhaust manifold does not have a O2 sensor or a place to mount one. What O2 sensor should I buy? From my limited investigation a heated wideband (Bosch, NTK) sensor appears to be good for performance tuning. MS has some support for the NTK and Bosch wideband but treats the wide band as a narrow band, limiting its advantage but data logs to aid tuning, real time VE updating soon.
The Bosch LSU4 looks like a reasonably priced wideband sensor but the cable is more expensive than the sensor plus you have to buy/make the controller. Maybe I should just go narrow band?
By David S on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 12:47 pm:
Justin,
I have the Pace extractors as well. I welded the O2 bung in the top section where the 3 pipes join on the RH bank. The problem is the O2 sensor is quite long but will fit in this position and is protected from damage.
I used a 4 wire NTK (to suit a VS Commodore) and ran the heater wire to the fuel pump relay and the sensor wires to the AFM plug.
David
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 03:24 pm:
David,
Do they look like this? Now I understand that other wire in your picture.
Did the NTK come with the controller or is it narrow band? Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it?
By Peter Webb on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 07:08 pm:
The WB02 won't work directly with the MS. You need a controller which will output NB and WB signals. Since the MS has WB02 support (0-5v) and target-AFR code, you'd be best to use something like the TechEdge with the LSU4 sensor. The DIY-WB02 project uses the L1H1 sensor which is $300+.
A heated NB02 should be fine to get a good base tune with crossovers. You don't have to use Bosch, any NB02 will do. IME, the cheaper NBO2 sensors are lower quality.
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
I think you are right about the TechEdge with the LSU4. with MSII just about to be released when do you think Bowling & Grippo will have PWC WBO2 controller ready? Maybe I should use a NB in the mean time.
What do you mean by crossovers?
Where did you place your O2 sensor as I have read that it should be kept close to the heads? In my case I would only be getting a reading off one cylinder unless I place the sensor near the muffler.
Your triple throttle setup looks awesome; your track day story awhile ago triggered me to start a MS project.
By David S on Wednesday, November 17, 2004 - 03:39 am:
Justin,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Do a Keyword search "plates" and have a look at the Performance Headers link. You will see my Pace extractors, but they look different from yours.
In the photo with the flexi joints, to the left of the collector plates you can just see where the 3 pipes from each bank join. I installed the bung in the top of this section.
No I don't think the MV board would fit in the L-Jet case, not if you used the flyback board. I didn't as I used the 164 highZ injectors.
The NTK didn't have a controller and I set MS to WB. I'm still learning the whole MS tuning routine but from my reading of the MS info, it can use the NTK sensor but treats it as NB and only reads O2 levels. I'll need to talk to Peter to see if I'm on the right track as I'm getting O2 readings in all the MS tuning processes. I paid $110 AUD for the new heated sensor.
David
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, November 17, 2004 - 08:16 am:
I'm not familiar with this sensor. Do you have MegaTune set to NB or WB? If it's a WB sensor, it should have 6 wires. What did you hook up to where? When you do a datalog, what does the GEGO voltage show up as?
Crossover is the GEGO correction. In order to get a good tune, O2 feedback is needed. MegaTune has fields for correction under the enrichments screen. If you set the ignition events to 36, EGO step % to 5 and EGO limit to % to 50, the MegaSquirt will be constantly correcting, or bouncing the AFR to 14.7 creating many rich/lean points at each 36 ignition events and, in essence, averaging the AFR to stoich between ignition events. MSTweak can then read those points and see how much or little correction is being done and suggest changes to reduce it. Crossover is when the O2 sensor moves from rich to lean over the stoich point of .485 to .515 volts, or 14.7:1 AFR.
HTH
-Peter
'BM Spares' in Dendenong Melbourne have spare L-jet ECU's out of old BMW 528's 633's for $55.
By bteoh on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 08:20 pm:
Justin,
Have they got a website or ph. no.?
Thanks.Brian
Perth
By Anonymous on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 08:36 pm:
What are the gains with this BMW ECU..?
By Greg Gordon on Friday, October 08, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
Zero.
By Justin on Sunday, October 10, 2004 - 06:42 pm:
bteoh
BM Spares
PH: 03 9791 - 6822 209 Princes Hwy Dandenong.
There are no gains, the l-jet ecu case in a BMW 528, 633 or 735 is the same as the GTV6 (to build a MegaSquirt inside).
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, November 03, 2004 - 10:28 am:
This posted by BB last week. It's a redesign of the main board to integrate the flyback circuit and clean up some other issues...
BB >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
As Al indicated, I am nearing the first pass redesign of the mainboard. There
are a lot of physical placement changes, along with some circuit changes. And,
fixing all of the component footprints to match the parts plus moving to smaller
general packages for caps and resistors. And, there will be some subtle circuit
changes, mainly to add VR capability to the tach input and make the driver stage
"blow-up-proof" (or closer to this goal than it is right now). And I am looking
at adding an uncommitted power stage which could be used for ignition IGBT
experimentation. The transformation of the board to a 4-layer setup is complete,
with nice separation of digital and driver stage grounds. And if I can shoehorn
it in, a LPF + peak&hold stage for a knock circuit. Other items include a
heatsink busbar across the top of the mainboard to hold all of the power
semiconductors, MOV protection of the input power and +5V supply, fix DB
connector backspacing from front panel, and add holes for mechanically securing
processor in socket. And - integrating flyback circuit on mainboard. There will
be new 0.050-ohm resistors in the source leads of the driver FETs which will be
used to drive a bipolar transistor for over-current limiting, and can also be
used to determine PWM parameters.
BB >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
This is good news for assembly and reliablity of the board. Blowing up the output FETs seems to be the #1 failure.
-Peter
By Justin on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 05:38 pm:
Steven R
I have been using your MS guide and have hooked it up to the simulator and a pc and every thing seams to work except for the fuel pump light on the simulator. I have used your fuel pump drive circuit mod. (page 19. version 3.1 your guide) which is probably why the simulator led does not go on. Picture bellow.
I put a multi-meter across the IN4001 diode where it goes into hole 19 on DB37 and I get 0.01v.
My question is how do I know if I have this modification working before I put it into the car? And which way does the IN4001 go around or does it not matter?
By Steve R on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 02:19 am:
Hi Justin,
Sorry about the lack of clarity in that part of the guide (I'm a poor proof reader!) - hope the rest helped.
From memory the fuel pump light on the stim doesn't work after the mod.
I'll have a look at mine when I get home this evening & post what the voltages are, I'll also clarify the orientation of the diode and the upside down transistor... both are important.
By Steve R on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:40 pm:
Hi again Justin,
Just had another look at mine:
The IN4001 orientation is NON-banded end to hole 19 on the DB37. If I look at the upside down transistor from exactly the same orientation as your photo I see the FLAT side of the transistor facing me and the curved side (with the writing) faces away. From the above photo I think yours may be the wrong way around? Q3 looks OK. With this mod the fuel pump LED doesn't light on my board in the car either, but the pump runs fine.
Afraid I can't give you a decent multimeter test on the stim as this mod is purely to interact with the cars L-jet combo relay and not the stim. Check the component orientations as above and you should be OK in the car.
Hope this helps
By Peter Webb on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:49 pm:
You can hot-wire the fuel pump on ignition if you have trouble with it. Just to verify that's what the problem is and to make the car run.
To hot wire the FP, take the connector off the AFM and jumper the 2 right most pins together as standing at the fender looking across the engine bay. You won't have IAT with the cable unplugged. The IAT is in the AFM.
Just use this method as a test procedure.
-Peter (hypocrite with FP hotwired for the last year).
By Justin on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 10:06 pm:
Thanks guys.
I switched it around. Now to setting up the case and wiring it in.
Once I am sure its working I want to get rid of the AFM, is the best place to put the IAT in the plenum or is this too close? (heat will mess with the reading?). Is there anything else I need to consider before removing the AFM?
Steve, your guide has been really helpful and I would not have attempted this without it.
This is what it is going into
By Justin on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
The virtually made hole in the top of the old j-jet case looks like a good place to put the MAP line joiner
By Steve R on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 04:35 am:
Looks good Justin, and as Peter says you can always hot wire the pump to run when the ignition is on !
Slight clarification to my comment last night the fuel pump LED does work in the car - but as I only turned the ignition on but didn't start the car I forgot the LED only stays on for a couple of seconds! It won't won't work on the stim but should be OK in the car.
By Davids on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 01:53 pm:
Justin,
I put the IAT in the new intake closer to the air filter. I used the AFM harness to connect it and the O2 sensor to the MS.
Are you using the Megaview? Here's mine in an old floppy drive carrier. Fits nicely in the tray under the dash.
By Peter Webb on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 02:05 pm:
Hey nice MV install David. Would go nicely where the ashtray is or in place of the radio (real Alfa's make their own music).
I did the same thing with the IAT before I built the custom plenum.
My US spec car already had an O2 sensor so I used the stock wiring for it.
Where/how did you mount the ECU? Stock location in the kick panel?
-Peter
By David S on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 08:24 pm:
Peter,
Yes its back in the stock position. The ashtray position was just too small for the MV without hacking into the surround.
The Boards for the MV bolted togther as per the instructions were a bit bulky.
The cables joining the boards are old PC LED leads. You can buy the 2 row pin blocks for less than a $ and cut them to suit, then solder to the boards.
David
By Justin on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 09:30 pm:
David,
Not using the MV, but it looks cool. Do you think there would be enough room in the L-jet case to mount the MV board and then run some cat5 to the LED on the dash?
My car is AUS spec and I assumed it had a O2 sensor, will have to check it out as Steve’s car did not have one.
Steve & Peter
Thanks, I will hotwire if I have probs. got to find some time to finish this project.
-J
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 12:12 am:
My Pace exhaust manifold does not have a O2 sensor or a place to mount one. What O2 sensor should I buy? From my limited investigation a heated wideband (Bosch, NTK) sensor appears to be good for performance tuning. MS has some support for the NTK and Bosch wideband but treats the wide band as a narrow band, limiting its advantage but data logs to aid tuning, real time VE updating soon.
The Bosch LSU4 looks like a reasonably priced wideband sensor but the cable is more expensive than the sensor plus you have to buy/make the controller. Maybe I should just go narrow band?
By David S on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 12:47 pm:
Justin,
I have the Pace extractors as well. I welded the O2 bung in the top section where the 3 pipes join on the RH bank. The problem is the O2 sensor is quite long but will fit in this position and is protected from damage.
I used a 4 wire NTK (to suit a VS Commodore) and ran the heater wire to the fuel pump relay and the sensor wires to the AFM plug.
David
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 03:24 pm:
David,
Do they look like this? Now I understand that other wire in your picture.
Did the NTK come with the controller or is it narrow band? Do you mind me asking how much you paid for it?
By Peter Webb on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 07:08 pm:
The WB02 won't work directly with the MS. You need a controller which will output NB and WB signals. Since the MS has WB02 support (0-5v) and target-AFR code, you'd be best to use something like the TechEdge with the LSU4 sensor. The DIY-WB02 project uses the L1H1 sensor which is $300+.
A heated NB02 should be fine to get a good base tune with crossovers. You don't have to use Bosch, any NB02 will do. IME, the cheaper NBO2 sensors are lower quality.
By Justin on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 10:33 pm:
I think you are right about the TechEdge with the LSU4. with MSII just about to be released when do you think Bowling & Grippo will have PWC WBO2 controller ready? Maybe I should use a NB in the mean time.
What do you mean by crossovers?
Where did you place your O2 sensor as I have read that it should be kept close to the heads? In my case I would only be getting a reading off one cylinder unless I place the sensor near the muffler.
Your triple throttle setup looks awesome; your track day story awhile ago triggered me to start a MS project.
By David S on Wednesday, November 17, 2004 - 03:39 am:
Justin,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Do a Keyword search "plates" and have a look at the Performance Headers link. You will see my Pace extractors, but they look different from yours.
In the photo with the flexi joints, to the left of the collector plates you can just see where the 3 pipes from each bank join. I installed the bung in the top of this section.
No I don't think the MV board would fit in the L-Jet case, not if you used the flyback board. I didn't as I used the 164 highZ injectors.
The NTK didn't have a controller and I set MS to WB. I'm still learning the whole MS tuning routine but from my reading of the MS info, it can use the NTK sensor but treats it as NB and only reads O2 levels. I'll need to talk to Peter to see if I'm on the right track as I'm getting O2 readings in all the MS tuning processes. I paid $110 AUD for the new heated sensor.
David
By Peter Webb on Wednesday, November 17, 2004 - 08:16 am:
I'm not familiar with this sensor. Do you have MegaTune set to NB or WB? If it's a WB sensor, it should have 6 wires. What did you hook up to where? When you do a datalog, what does the GEGO voltage show up as?
Crossover is the GEGO correction. In order to get a good tune, O2 feedback is needed. MegaTune has fields for correction under the enrichments screen. If you set the ignition events to 36, EGO step % to 5 and EGO limit to % to 50, the MegaSquirt will be constantly correcting, or bouncing the AFR to 14.7 creating many rich/lean points at each 36 ignition events and, in essence, averaging the AFR to stoich between ignition events. MSTweak can then read those points and see how much or little correction is being done and suggest changes to reduce it. Crossover is when the O2 sensor moves from rich to lean over the stoich point of .485 to .515 volts, or 14.7:1 AFR.
HTH
-Peter
Photo of alternate fuel pump circuit
Hey everyone, I followed Steve R.'s instructions for the alternate fuel pump circuit. Here's a photo - thought it might help somebody else. Actually I haven't tested this yet, but I'll come back if it doesn't work.
[/img][/url]
[/img][/url]Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
Q: no fuel pump led on stimulator
Hey everyone, I just closed up my MS box for the first time and ran the stimulator. The fuel pump led does not come on the Stimulator. Is this normal when the alternate fuel pump circuit it used or did I screw something up?
One other question, when using the stimulator my throttle signal is a little noisy. Is this normal?
I'm finishing up my MS to LJET harness. Hope to try it in my Milano tomorrow.
Bill in MD
One other question, when using the stimulator my throttle signal is a little noisy. Is this normal?
I'm finishing up my MS to LJET harness. Hope to try it in my Milano tomorrow.
Bill in MD
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
TPSdot?
OK, thanks for the response on the fuel pump LED.
Now I've got the next problem. I can't load Stephen R's TPSdot code. I think I'm using hyperterminal correctly because I was able to upload the most recent .s19 code to the chip. But the TPSdot code isn't a text file, it looks like its binary? Maybe I've got a corrupted version or something?
And don't worry, I'm reading through MSEFI.com to see if I can figure out these things myself.
Thanks again,
Bill
Now I've got the next problem. I can't load Stephen R's TPSdot code. I think I'm using hyperterminal correctly because I was able to upload the most recent .s19 code to the chip. But the TPSdot code isn't a text file, it looks like its binary? Maybe I've got a corrupted version or something?
And don't worry, I'm reading through MSEFI.com to see if I can figure out these things myself.
Thanks again,
Bill
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
V2.98_MapDotAE.s19
Found it, answered my own stupid question. I was getting the .s19 code confused with the maps you upload. Duh, for those unitiated people out there like myself, you load the .s19 with the boot jumper in place and via hyperterminal. Although I haven't done it yet, you upload the maps via the MS tuning software, but you don't have the boot jumper in place. I'll be doing that tomorrow.
Here's the url for Steve's .s19 file: http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oFXXQeGRx_ ... pDotAE.s19
Here's the url for Steve's .s19 file: http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/oFXXQeGRx_ ... pDotAE.s19
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
why you don't try the extra-code? it has some nice features
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/
Re: Photo of alternate fuel pump circuit
Hi Bill:bmacf wrote:Hey everyone, I followed Steve R.'s instructions for the alternate fuel pump circuit. Here's a photo - thought it might help somebody else.
Can you post a pic of the reverse side (want to double check how I installed the 1N4001 Diode on the bottom of PCB)?
This pic you posted has been very useful
Thanks,
Michael
1981 GTV6
1981 GTV6
noisy Stim TPS and no MS ground?
Thanks Steve, and thanks for all your contributions. I think the code works. I'll know after I solve the two problems below.
One: When connected up to the stimulator my TPS signal bounces around a bit. Let me know if you've seen this before. I assume I've messed something up in the TPS circuit. I saw a post on MSEFI about the circuit, so I think I know how to check it out.
Two: and this is for anybody with LJET who is squirting now, what MS pin do you connect to LJET ground? Seriously, Peter Florence's LJET to MS diagram is great, but theorhetically the MS ECU isn't grounded to the car's electronics. What am I missing - which MS pin is ground?
Thanks for any help that can be offered.
Bill
One: When connected up to the stimulator my TPS signal bounces around a bit. Let me know if you've seen this before. I assume I've messed something up in the TPS circuit. I saw a post on MSEFI about the circuit, so I think I know how to check it out.
Two: and this is for anybody with LJET who is squirting now, what MS pin do you connect to LJET ground? Seriously, Peter Florence's LJET to MS diagram is great, but theorhetically the MS ECU isn't grounded to the car's electronics. What am I missing - which MS pin is ground?
Thanks for any help that can be offered.
Bill
Bill in MD
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
'88 Alfa Milano Verde x 2
'77 Fiat Spider
The L-Jet is grounded individually. The grounds on the DB37 are all connected to the ground plane. The top row, pin 1-19 are all grounds. You can use any of them for a ground connection. The L-Jet is grounded on it's connections on pins 16, 17 and 35 that should wire to 1-19. That's besides the sensor grounds that go to 7-11 on the DB37.
- Attachments
-
- extwir.gif (51.74 KiB) Viewed 12054 times
The true joy of an Alfa Romeo is behind the wheel.
Re: Photo of alternate fuel pump circuit
I'd second the recommendation to use the -Extra code. It gives 12x12 tables, supports dual-table and all methods or spark, including now the 60-2 wheel for crank angle.Michael wrote:Hi Bill:bmacf wrote:Hey everyone, I followed Steve R.'s instructions for the alternate fuel pump circuit. Here's a photo - thought it might help somebody else.
Can you post a pic of the reverse side (want to double check how I installed the 1N4001 Diode on the bottom of PCB)?
This pic you posted has been very useful
Thanks,
Steve R and I both have -E msq files.
You can turn spark off until you decide to implement it. The Motronic ignitor and stock V6 hall sensor are all you need to make it work. Get fuel under your belt first, starting with the -E code then add spark later with no changes in software.
Be careful on the -E version and MT version. It gets a little tricky. I think they're up to 021j for the -E which is only compatible with MT 336B because of the Neon wheel support.
Once you get the -E .s19 file, follow the link the Eric Fahgrens MT beta site for the right MT version. Also make sure you use the msnextra.ini from the sourceforge bundle, not the one in the MT download bundle. Put it in the MtCfg folder.
-Peter
The true joy of an Alfa Romeo is behind the wheel.
Well described Peter.
I connected the correct ljet pins to the ecu case as a "ground".. then connected the correct MS "ground" pins to the case too. Then when you bolt the ECU case to the car... it grounds it all too ! = No problems with dodgy grounds any more.
Also re MSnS-Extra code, I'm running with 12x12's on fuel only and once I figured out how to make it work (Peter's advice mainly!) have had no issues with it since.
I've welded up a spare distributor and will soon be running this for spark too Need to fix an oil leak first though.... 
I connected the correct ljet pins to the ecu case as a "ground".. then connected the correct MS "ground" pins to the case too. Then when you bolt the ECU case to the car... it grounds it all too ! = No problems with dodgy grounds any more.
Also re MSnS-Extra code, I'm running with 12x12's on fuel only and once I figured out how to make it work (Peter's advice mainly!) have had no issues with it since.
I've welded up a spare distributor and will soon be running this for spark too
Need to fix an oil leak first though.... 83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
Like this? (my in-box LJet installation before I went to the pgitail and DB37)Steve R wrote:Well described Peter.
I connected the correct ljet pins to the ecu case as a "ground".. then connected the correct MS "ground" pins to the case too. Then when you bolt the ECU case to the car... it grounds it all too ! No problems with dodgy grounds any more.
Note the twisted black wires coming off the MS board (1-19) already installed inside the case to an eyelet connected bolted to the frame. The black ground bundle coming off the bolt is then soldered or spade-connectered to the L-Jet plug.
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The true joy of an Alfa Romeo is behind the wheel.