Related to the Bowling & Grippo Fuel Injection system.
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Murray
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Post by Murray »

Kevin second question first,I just checked my install and in fact my memory is playing tricks on me :evil: I took my switched 12V for the relay coil from 88C ( AAV heater circuit) I can't remember why I chose this circuit but it could be as simple as it being physically easy to tap into.Any +12 controlled by the ignition switch should be fine as long as it's hot in both the start and run positions.

For the ignition circuit I thought you were going to control spark as well as fuel.I wouldn't use the pull up resistor in the L-Jet circuit as it is not going to like seeing +12V on the signal line.When I first embarked on this journey (fuel only at first) I decided to take my "tach signal" from the coil - to avoid this issue.That requires that you modify your MS board slightly ! Ultimately I realized that controlling the spark with MS is a very big part of the performance improvements that are possible and I completely disconnected the EZ-L ignition advance module and ran fresh shielded wire from the distributor to MS.If you want to trigger MS off the Hall sensor but maintain the Bosch ignition control then I think you're going to have to take your signal from the "ignition power module" which is the flat black device which has seven pins and is attached to the ignition coil bracket.There is info on how to use this on the MS site under ignition modules .
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Post by Murray »

Kevin second question first,I just checked my install and in fact my memory is playing tricks on me :evil: I took my switched 12V for the relay coil from 88C ( AAV heater circuit) I can't remember why I chose this circuit but it could be as simple as it being physically easy to tap into.Any +12 controlled by the ignition switch should be fine as long as it's hot in both the start and run positions.

For the ignition circuit I thought you were going to control spark as well as fuel.I wouldn't use the pull up resistor in the L-Jet circuit as it is not going to like seeing +12V on the signal line.When I first embarked on this journey (fuel only at first) I decided to take my "tach signal" from the coil - to avoid this issue.That requires that you modify your MS board slightly ! Ultimately I realized that controlling the spark with MS is a very big part of the performance improvements that are possible and I completely disconnected the EZ-L ignition advance module and ran fresh shielded wire from the distributor to MS.If you want to trigger MS off the Hall sensor but maintain the Bosch ignition control then I think you're going to have to take your signal from the "ignition power module" which is the flat black device which has seven pins and is attached to the ignition coil bracket.There is info on how to use this on the MS site under ignition modules .
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
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Post by kredden »

Thanks Murray, that makes sense. I decided to hold of on controlling spark until I've got everything working just with fuel, then I'll move onto the spark!

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Post by kredden »

It runs!!!

Jury rigged the wiring for the Tach off the hall sensor by jamming a couple wires into the back of the plug, and the wires and vacuum hose that need to run through the firewall are coming out the hood and going in thru the window for now. It started right up and idled good for a second and then started to stumble so I shut it off and tried started again, same thing. Good enough for tonight!

Don't have the wideband O2 hooked in yet either.

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Post by Murray »

Congratulations Kevin :D
It's pretty satisfying to do all that work and get a rapid positive result.
If it idled briefly then stumbled, next step would be to adjust your ASE % until it keeps running.Can't tell if you need to go up or down but try adding 5 either way and see if it improves.
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Post by kredden »

Thanks. I did realize after I thought about it for a while that I had forgotten to disconnect the cold start injector so I might be getting a little too much fuel. I'll disconnect that and give it a quick try before I head off to work.

A question on the req_fuel, in MegaTune the rq fuel calculator asks for engine displacement which I set to 2959cc, the injector flow, I looked on Greg Gordons page and he says the stock injectors flow at 17.6 lbs/hr at 36.5 psi. Is that the value you used? For the air-fuel ratio setting in that calculator I assume I use 14.7?

Thanks,
Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin yes those are exactly the values I used to calculate req.fuel,with the exception of the engine displacement.
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Post by kredden »

I got it idling throughout the full warmup period, didn't really have to do much.

I do have a problem where the RPM's are cycling rhythmically between around 630 and 965 or so and I'm not sure how to get rid of that. I've had that before on the stock L-Jet when the TPS wasn't adjusted correctly. I'm not sure if that is the case here. I'm using a Volvo 850 TPS with a bracket and I did the calibrate TPS menu item. The low value is around 50 and the high is in the 700's if I remember correctly.

I mucked with the idle adjustment nut pair on the plenum but that didn't do much. Tried slowly moving the throttle with my hand and at low values it still cycled, when I get up to around 1500 or so it seems to smooth out and hold steady although I only tried that a couple times before giving up for now.

Does it matter where the lower and upper settings are as long as you use the calibration tool? I did see this in the manual:

"Use the "Tools/Calibrate TPS" function in MegaTune to ensure that you have an ADC count value well below 155 at closed throttle (ideally, your TPS at closed throttle will be 30 or less), and above 178 at wide open throttle (WOT). This will ensure that you are not in flood clear mode while cranking , and yet still able to activate flood clear mode. If you are in flood clear mode (TPS ADC > 155), NO fuel will be injected while cranking. Many TPS are adjustable by loosening the screws and rotating it a bit. Also verify that the ADC count increases as you open the throttle, otherwise you have the TPS wired backwards. You should recheck the TPS range each time you change the idle position or reassemble the throttle linkage."

Seems my upper value is quite far beyond their 178... What values do you see for yours?

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Kevin
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Post by kredden »

I forgot, I was going to include the log file of my session that shows the RPMs going up and down.

Kevin
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Post by Murray »

Kevin your idle speed cycling up and down isn't related to your TPS.What you need to do is go to "tuning" in MT and select VE Table.With the engine idling you'll see a green dot floating around in the VE boxes at the MAP/rpm values which correspond to your engine's current state.What you need to do is set a group of VE values in this region to the same number and that should settle down the idle what you're trying to achieve is to create a little "plateau" where the engine can idle consistantly.Next you adjust this group of values up or down to achieve the lowest MAP reading possible,should be around 30-40 kpa.

Re your TPS ,I'm also using a Volvo unit and my closed/open values are 5/850.
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Post by kredden »

Thanks. In looking through the logged session I did I noticed an "Ethanol%" column. Should I be setting this somewhere as our local gas is all 10% ethanol here.

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Post by Murray »

I guess 10% ethanol will have a slight impact on the stoimetric value but I wouldn't worry about it at this stage of your tuning.
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Post by kredden »

I'm sitting here running through all my MegaTune settings right now. For the Idle Control you are using "Solenoid" for the algorithm correct? I can't find that one documented anywhere. I did see one post where you had problems finding it but eventually seemed to find it, what does that algorithm do, just assume there is some outside entity controlling it (like our AAV) and that it cuts off at the 120F temp?

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Post by Murray »

Kevin my understanding of this setting is that you're telling MT that you have an external On/Off idle valve and that MS doesn't have a role to play in controlling it.The AAV operates on its own .My starts are much better than factory and I've tried them from -30F - +90F (Canada has a wonderfull clmate) Car never fails to start on the first try and settles into idle with no difficulty.
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Post by kredden »

Thanks Murray, I had it set to PWM Warmup for some reason, I'll change it to Solenoid. I hear you on the weather, my family is from Kingston and NH has pretty much the same extremes!

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