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<  Introduce yourself - Gallery  ~  Andy´s ex-white GTV6 (CZ) - pearl green

PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 9:31 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
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finally after the Brno I was able to wash and detail my car (Dodo Juice stuff) :)

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 3:05 am
VerdeVerdeJoined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:09 amPosts: 2762Location: Esher, UK
That sure is striking . You must get a lot of attention at trackdays .


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 11:51 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
...winter is coming, therefore the time to fix some issues :) ..
my refurbished rear hatch strut fitted yesterday and working fine :), alternator is just being repaired and I just need to find a radiator fans (twin setup) replacement...any ideas if any aftermarket fans work?

Than I´ve discovered fuel lines route that goes quite close to the headers (see the pic on AFM side). Is this a normal route?
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 12:31 pm
VerdeVerdeJoined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:09 amPosts: 2762Location: Esher, UK
There is a lot of fan replacements out there . Best I used was the 156gta fans . They fit nicely but just need to centre correctly to avoid the thermostat housing . Other cheap fan was the single fan from a Kia Shuma . Not sure which model but really good shape blade and designed as a proper pull through fan . Your fuel lines should come up against the body but I always sleeve them with heat sheild just to be extra cautious . .
Pic attached with gta fans
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 1:49 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
thanks Kev :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:43 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
I´just got info from the alternator shop my alternator is fine, measured and tested. So why I was getting low 12V on the alternator when fitted in the car?
Could it be faulty battery that is pulling the voltage down? What voltage you measure on the big battery terminal in engine bay?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 2:54 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
have not driven the GTV6 this year yet :( but radiator has been fully refurbished (recored etc) and GTA fans intalled. Now I need to make a nice wiring and test them.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 3:01 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
I´ve also found some more pics from car bodyshop on my comp.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 9:29 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
It´s almost one year the car is still sitting in my garage, therefore decided to fit the refurbished heater along with GTA fans.
Everything was going smoothly. However when I was about to start the engine - no crank whats so ever.
Ok, dead battery. So I´ve got one from a friend (but 60Ah, 540A starting current only - do not know how long the battery was not used, therefore actually status of the capacity). The engine started OK, running more than 1 minutes and starting to die slowly. I was about to push a gas pedal down while seen a smoke from engine bay, therefore shut the engine down.

I´ve found there is an oil leak from oil pressure sensor? see the picture below.
What would you suggest to check/do first before cranking the engine again and what can be the reason for the leakage?

Thank you

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:14 pm
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 11:16 amPosts: 621Location: Lac Brome Quebec - Canada
Andy
Simply replace your sensor.They're cheap might even be able it through NAPA if you're in N.A.? If not they're sort of a generic Bosch L-Jet part so you should be able to sort one easily.My goodness I'm in the woods in Canada and I could lay my hands on one within 2 days.Great place to live !
Now your leaking sensor played no role in your engine acting up it was just the smoke from oil dripping down onto something hot - probably the manifold.
You are comfortable that your car's oil level is correct ?
Your engine's progression from smooth to dying is going to be something else.First question what's your fuel's status ? If your car was laid up for an extended period I hope you treated your fuel with something like Stabil.No eh ! Well then you could simply have "aged " fuel or water or both.If you know you're gas is A-OK then come on back and I'll try and get you on the right path.Probably send you over to Greg Gordon's site.


Last edited by Murray on Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:25 pm
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 11:16 amPosts: 621Location: Lac Brome Quebec - Canada
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Andy I just checked Napa - Canada .Can't help myself, I'm sick that way. They have 3 options for sensors.First one is a little expensive.But it's a direct replacement.Other two will work, might have to modify your wiring terminal,



_________________
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 11:04 pm
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
thanks for the reply Murray :)

-oil level is correct,
-I have not put any Stabil in, but the car is always running on 100 octane fuel (actually Im from Czech rep. and we can source such a fuel on almost every petrol station). This fuel is more "durable" therefore able to withstands longer period sitting in the fuel tank :) But one year is very long time anyway :-/
-it´s pain in the arse to remove the oil pressure sensor, therefore I´ve just wipped the oil off and will see the behavior. I do not understand why the pressure sensor might leak? There should be a copper washer under, but the oil seems like inside of the plastic connector on the top?
Any experience with thread sealants such a Loctite 577 or Loxeal 58-11?

Anyway, started the engine easily when cold again, running for about 2 minutes without any issues (nice smooth idle).
Than the engine start to shake and again smoke from the engine bay, close to the manifold. Also I can smell unburned fuel? Than the engine rpm dies.
Not possible to start again (cranking but the engine do not start). When cranking again while using gas pedal I can definitely smell the fuel. Also I can see the fuel coming from the manifold (close to the CSI) down to the intake runner.

Therefore it seems like whenever the coolant temp reaches certain point (30-40°C) the idle is dropping until the engine die.
Measured CTS, about 30 ohm when about 20°C ambient. Greg says the CTS resistance below 30° should be 0 ohm?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:35 pm
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
update: today morning the engine started just fine (while cold), after 2 minutes engine started to die (coolant temp about 40°C), therefore disconnected CSI and manualy choked rpms (by throttle cable) for about 30-60 sec. (engine did not really liked it, smoke from the engine bay) but after this it´s been idling fine. While coolant temp reached 70-80°C I´ve decided to switch the ignition off. Let it sit down for about 15 minutes, connected CSI back and was not possible to start the engine at all. Let it sit down for about 30 minutes, engine started up but than again started to die quickly. When pushing gas pedal down it really did not work and engine switched off.

fuel pressure measured - OK, distributor cap - OK, spark plugs - not really OK, they are black (time to replace valve cover gasket), therefore I´ve just brushed the carbon out at the moment from spark plugs.

However removed intake manifold and found this:
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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 12:37 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
After several attempts to fix issue on the paint we have decided along with the paint shop to do the paint once again. I will choose another color most probably.
But when I´ve started to dissasemble all the trim I have realised there is a radio antenna on the roof. (near rear window) It does not seems like an original position (or is it? :-) see the pic below
Therefore Im thinking about to remove the antenna (I do not use radio anyway) and make the roof nice and flat. But welding on the roof might be tricky :-/ so would you do that?
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 10:58 am
SilverSilverJoined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:05 pmPosts: 35
will go for the original Rosso530.
The car is actually made in 1985, do you know whether these EU versions in 85 were made in two-color (red + gray bottom - bumpers) or only red?
If so, do you know the color code for the gray parts?


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