ALFAGTV6.COM

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:33 am

video, video, VIDEO, VIDEO, VIDEO

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 11:26 am

Maurizio wrote:video, video, VIDEO, VIDEO, VIDEO

http://www.alfagtv6.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=14986

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 12:35 am

Some more pics have surfaced:

(c) Anders Ohlsson

I also took a bunch during the track-walk the evening before the race. If someone wants to see this very ondulated track from beside the track I can post some in this thread.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 1:32 am

Nice pics. Very easy to see that you have about 0 kg load on the inner front wheel in corners. Lots of camber as well.

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:26 am

Lots of camber as well.

Yeah, looking at the pics I was going to ask how much negative camber you run on the fronts - 3, or so?
Jes

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:40 am

"Just right"

I'm not sure if my setup is going to help you since the geometry is changed in the front suspension.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:44 am

Won't help nuthin! I don't think we have anything in common in the suspensions anymore.

The interesting points are that you can screw bump steer and ackermann. With the inner wheel in the air (and 10 degrees "wrong" camber) it doesn't make any difference anyway.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 11:18 am

The arm on the upright is adjusted to suit the new geometry. Sure, the camber on the inner wheel is way out there but unless I make the car very roll stiff there isn't much I can do.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:50 pm

Mats,Dont you have any MORE pictures???

Damn,I love the clean lines of the Strada Coupe....

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Wed Jun 21, 2006 9:12 pm

Nice pics (and vid

), so uprights are welded/upside down bj?. Geometry of the lower arm looks good with a wonderfull low front. (Note to myself try to implement in 15" wheels on my ts, to remove an extra 4cm ground clearance).

Did you try stiffer springs on the front, or is this a good compromise?

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:45 am

Barry, yes, loads. I only show the good ones...

Maurizio, upside-down bj, tubular control arms, corrected steering arm on the upright and so on. Can't really say everything that's been done becaus I didn't do it, the car was bought in this trim and I have been concentrating on the driving since I knew the car had produced much better times then when I drove it the first year.
The spring rate is pretty firm, AR-bars are on the soft side and I'm thinking about making some changes in that department but I'm afraid it will turn into a superstiff/edgy car that is difficult to drive on the edge. Need to do some more thinking in that department before doing anything. The tracks are not all super smooth either.

On the other hand I am working on some pretty interesting stuff right now, can't tell you much right now because I need to check the feasibility before tell you guys. If it works I think it will be the bees knees though.

Watch this space for info later on...

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:52 am

Some pics of the front suspension please, sounds nice

spring rate is pretty firm, AR-bars are on the soft side

After long thinking about the subject I'm convinced that it doesn't matter that much which one you use (ar bar/ springs) to stiffen up the front. Coil-over springs are lighter, cheaper and more effective (shorter force loop). The good part of a ar bar is that it can be disconnected for a wet setup. To make life interesting: finding the good combo for dry wet - setup swapping

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:40 am

Maurizio wrote:Some pics of the front suspension please, sounds nice

What's that, son? I can't really hear you..?

After long thinking about the subject I'm convinced that it doesn't matter that much which one you use (ar bar/ springs) to stiffen up the front. Coil-over springs are lighter, cheaper and more effective (shorter force loop). The good part of a ar bar is that it can be disconnected for a wet setup. To make life interesting: finding the good combo for dry wet - setup swapping

As long as the track is reasonalby smooth you're right, but you need to be reasonably in tune between roll- and pitch stiffness.
To have a setup where you can simply disconnect the AR-bars and still have a balanced wet setup seem a little optimistic.

I'd rather have an adjustable bar and use good old trial and horror for a good wet-setup on the bars.

TS_turbo · Post by **TS_turbo** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 2:50 am

Mats your gtv looks extra low in the back too ... how do you compensate
crapy halfshafts angle when back is very low?

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:25 am

little optimistic.

never said it would be easy.