ALFAGTV6.COM

[rz]

wow chuck,
good for you!
i can learn from you as i will face exactly the same problems in the near future.
and i wanted it to do myself???
succes

[Barry]

Has anyone tried TPS as the main input ?
I have a few cars here running on TPS and its actually a preferred method of mine..
Mappinh for TPS is of course a whole new ball game..

[Michael]

The Alfa does run MAP and TPS at the same time. We have a vacuum hose that runs to the Gotech ECU for the MAP sensor. Phil did convert the old Bosch TPS and made a custom one off that is a potentiometer TPS that hooks up to the Gotech ECU as well. Phil said that this tells the ECU the position of the throttle flap from closed to WOT. Phil said that he needed to do this to get the engine to idle better and perform correctly. It is not from a Porsche 944 Turbo but a 5 series BMW. We also confirmed that the Gotech setting is set for TPS and MAP at the same time.

Hi Charles - this is good to hear - exactly what I'm planning with my wiring. What is the throttle response like? Is there any lag between opening the throttle wide and the engine response? This was one of the issues I noticed with Megasquirt - a lag between the two which was especially annoying on the track (I think it could have been resolved with more tuning though). My MS unit used only MAP input, not TPS. I'm hoping that a combination of MAP and TPS inputs in the Gotech install will result in a crisp response.

Thanks,

[cchan]

Hello Everyone,

Good news, The Alternator is modified and fixed. The reason why the Alfa did not start is because I accidentally disconnected some wires while I was removing the belt. No big deal, Phil figured it out right away. He drove the Alfa around yesterday to make sure everything is ok. Phil said he likes it so I am happy.

One issue we have now is I need to tweek the RS suspension. It rides rough and Phil said I need to be careful. What is the best way to tune my new suspension? I saw the adjustments in the rear but none in the front.

In regards to Michael's question, I do not see any lag on the throttle response after the final dyno tune. Of course, I have not floored it during normal driving as I want to put 1K miles driving and then check everything again before I drive hard. Just want to break in all the new parts correctly even though I am not sure if this is necessary. We floored the Alfa alot on the dyno tune and Paul, Phil, and Jordon felt that everything was ok so I think it is safe to say that MAP and TPS at the same time will not have a lag.

Also, Michael, you sent me an email on a fix for the speedo which was different than the Forum shows (Ie: Milano sender & 86 GTV6 new speedo with Milano guts). Can you please PM me this or post it. We are deciding what is the best approach to this. Once I have the Tach & Speedo online I will be more comfortable driving.

Thanks again for all your help on the final sorting of the Alfa.

[Michael]

Also, Michael, you sent me an email on a fix for the speedo which was different than the Forum shows (Ie: Milano sender & 86 GTV6 new speedo with Milano guts). Can you please PM me this or post it. We are deciding what is the best approach to this. Once I have the Tach & Speedo online I will be more comfortable driving.

Hi:
When I first installed the Verde trans (years ago) I used the Verde speedo sender, Verde Amplifier and also hacked the inards of a Milano speedo into my GTV6 speedo housing. It worked well for a few years, but then started under-reading, so I wanted a better solution. I suspect that the mechanism was undermined by the surgery I had to perform on it to get it to fit in the GTV6 housing.
I recently found a guy with an '86 GTV6 speedo for sale (on the BB) and I believe the '86 speedo is compatible with the Milano speedo sensor and amplifier. If it is not absolutely accurate, I plan on using a Dakota Digital SGI-5 'Universal Signal Interface Unit' ...
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/ ... prd126.htm
...to correct, Steve R explained in fantastic detail how to do this ... or use the internal adjustment capabilities to correct the reading:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=920&p=8550&hilit=dakota#p8550

Hope this helps,

[cchan]

Thanks RZ, I wish I could DIY everything but I know my limitations since alot of this conversion is new to us. If we do another GTV6 it will be alot easier the 2nd time around.

Thanks Michael, I will foward this information to Phil and see what he thinks we should do about this. Did not get a chance to check on the status on the TACH but I will let you know. Any advise on the tuning of the RS suspension?

[ar4me]

Any advise on the tuning of the RS suspension?

The standard RSR shocks are non-adjustable. You can adjust ride height with the adjusters at the rear, but that will not do much for comfort. At the front you can also use the adjusters to some extent, but keep in mind that up front you want a setting where the torsion bars and the RSR springs work together. Your only real way of tuning comfort is to try different spring rates for the RSR springs. Group2 should have different spring rates in stock. My guess is that you have 60 and 115kg.

Of course, you can also get adjustable RSR shocks, or the full RSR race setup which has true coil-overs at the rear and adjustable shocks. Though, probably over-kill for a street car.

Jes

[Michael]

Also, check that you have the stock torsion bars up front. If you have Shankle bars in addition to the RS suspension, you would have very stiff suspension (as I have )

[Zamani]

Tires also can make a big difference. If this is a street car, then 16" wheels with 50 series tires will greatly improve ride quality. I suggest the Kumho SPT in 205/50/16 size. Then take the 17" wheels and mount race tires for the occasional track days (non-competitive track events that is).

[kevin]

With your low profile 17''it is pretty rough on bad roads. I have same set up on my gtv (road) 50 rear 115 front. its great on freeways and tracks.. I took the anti roll off front when i am not at track days. Play with settings ie change to 30 and 80 front. or leave 50 rear and 115 and put standard anti roll front on. Must experiment to what suits. The 17'' amplify your feedback.

[mjr]

what about the front roll bar? the recommended with RSR coil overs on front is the 30mm for the V6, though personally, I think it makes the ride too harsh for street use, in hind sight i wish I had gone for the 28mm instead..

[cchan]

Any advise on the tuning of the RS suspension?

The standard RSR shocks are non-adjustable. You can adjust ride height with the adjusters at the rear, but that will not do much for comfort. At the front you can also use the adjusters to some extent, but keep in mind that up front you want a setting where the torsion bars and the RSR springs work together. Your only real way of tuning comfort is to try different spring rates for the RSR springs. Group2 should have different spring rates in stock. My guess is that you have 60 and 115kg.

Of course, you can also get adjustable RSR shocks, or the full RSR race setup which has true coil-overs at the rear and adjustable shocks. Though, probably over-kill for a street car.

Jes

Hi Jess, I have 100Kg/70kg spring rate according to my build sheet. Is this is softest setting for spring rate? I think I'll wait to see how JJ's and your Milano race cars go before I decide if I want to build a race GTV6 for track fun. Both your Milano's look fantastic and I hope to see your project done soon.

Also, check that you have the stock torsion bars up front. If you have Shankle bars in addition to the RS suspension, you would have very stiff suspension (as I have )

Hi Michael, I have the stock torsion bars up front.

Tires also can make a big difference. If this is a street car, then 16" wheels with 50 series tires will greatly improve ride quality. I suggest the Kumho SPT in 205/50/16 size. Then take the 17" wheels and mount race tires for the occasional track days (non-competitive track events that is).

I tried to put on my old campo 15" since they have new tires, etc but they will not fit over the girodisk brakes but I think this is a very good suggestion even though it will make the Alfa look less aggressive.

With your low profile 17''it is pretty rough on bad roads. I have same set up on my gtv (road) 50 rear 115 front. its great on freeways and tracks.. I took the anti roll off front when i am not at track days. Play with settings ie change to 30 and 80 front. or leave 50 rear and 115 and put standard anti roll front on. Must experiment to what suits. The 17'' amplify your feedback.

Can you please explain alittle more about changing to 30 and 80 front? What would I be changing?

what about the front roll bar? the recommended with RSR coil overs on front is the 30mm for the V6, though personally, I think it makes the ride too harsh for street use, in hind sight i wish I had gone for the 28mm instead..

We have 30mm front roll bar set up currently. Now that we have learned a lot more going through this rebuild, I think that we have selected more of a track suspension set up rather than a street set up. The Alfa had the alignment done already with the camber set as well. Given the limited amount of time we have actually driven the Alfa, I think we will need to drive a lot more and then figure out the pro's and con's of this suspension set up.

[Greg Gordon]

1981-1985 GTV6 wheels will not fit over the Gyrodisks. However 1986 GTV6 and all Milano 15" wheels will.

Greg

[cchan]

1981-1985 GTV6 wheels will not fit over the Gyrodisks. However 1986 GTV6 and all Milano 15" wheels will.

Greg

Thanks for that piece of information. I'll look for some 86 GTV6 wheels. Besides being able to fit over the gyrodisks. Do they look the same as a 1982 wheel?

[Greg Gordon]

Nope, they look the same as 1987 Verde wheels, and Platinum wheels from 88' and 89'. They are Speedline's wineglass style wheels. They are pretty good, far better than the Verde phone dial wheels which are junk.

Greg