ALFAGTV6.COM

Jules. this car should love you after all this! Zender kit looks great - Yes, do everything at once, it's the few last things on mine that take away from the driving experience, and since I have little time to deal with now it takes away from enjoying the car. it's fun watching someone else spend money GV

GregoryV, I hope it does!!!

It's so funny reading a line like: "It's fun watching someone else spend money" !!!!

CChan's build got me fired up again- those were my thoughts exactly when watching his build.

I was at a point of being able to go either way with this car- it gave me a good 5 years of awesome driving after my last round of work to it in about 2001- 2.0 out and dropped the worked 2.5 in, 3.0 G/box and 10:43 diff w/ custom clutch and "Beninca'd" driveshaft, bilsteins, springs, 105 castor rods, upgraded 2.0 brakes to 75 brembos- I was 20!

Then I just drove it around while life took me away from being able to do anything else to it- then the headgasket blew and I got it transported and the accident happened, and I was pretty distraught.

To fix or part out, was the question?

Fast forward 3 years, and I was looking for a new car. I went to the Alfa Club NSW concourse day last year, and saw a couple of nice GTV/6s and thought to myself- for $20k, I can buy a brand new, poverty pack Mitsubishi Lancer, for 15k I can buy a 2nd hand Renault Clio Sport or Pug 206 GTI, or for around the same money, I can fix the GTV6 and have something unique, fun to drive, RWD and a shape that I never get tired of walking up to and driving away in.

So I started!

The major rule was, I had to be able to live with the car for a few years, which meant doing as you say- everything at once, and doing it right the first time.

The vision for the car is basically a Type R style GTV6: Big brakes, coilovers, reasonably light (hence no sound deadening, but painted with Lizardskin), and the ability to cut a reasonable lap time, yet drive on the street.

I don't mind a firm car on the street, so the compromise is acceptable

anyway, I should have some more pics in about 3 weeks time when it's painted

Lizardskin painted today- ill take photos when I'm back in Sydney this weekend

Ok here are the pics-

About Lizard Skin, first:

This stuff is awesome!

The panel beaters had a bit of doubt initially.
I put them onto the Australian distributors of this stuff for direction on what to do, and I'm happy with the results, given the limitations of the job- I still had all the lines running through the car, but all sound deadening was chipped away. They painted around/under all the lines.

In my personal opinion, this isn't the best way to paint a car- it should be stripped, bare metalled, holes welded up, prepped, primed, painted, put back together.

I had no desire to do this to the GTV6. I just want a functional and clean car and while I am spending a bit, I want to keep the spending under control- anyone can throw money at a car for a desired result. I don't want to!

I digress;

In their scepticism, they painted a scrap of sheet metal, half with the heat insulation ceramic paint, half bare. Lo and behold, when heated with a paint stripping gun, you simply can't touch the bare metal.

But you can lay your palm flat on the lizard skin. Yes it's warm, but in no way is it hot to touch!

My thanks to La Strega Nera for his insight into this stuff-
The proof will be in the pudding when I weigh the car for registration.

I'm hoping for under 1100kgs in full street trim- removing the booster cross over bar and running a dual cylinder brake setup will certainly help this, too.

The Lizard skin was painted with a light dusting of the chosen colour, to stop the paint from cracking (it's ceramic and flexes slightly).

The Zender bumper received some new fibreglassing around the front guard to help clear the tyre at full lock.

Kit is being removed and doors to follow shortly, for painting in the next couple of weeks....

by the way, you can get an idea of the actual colour by checking out the upper surface of the rear beaver panel-

Anyone have any adaptor bracket CAD and disc recommendations for newer brembos? Mine definitely aren't the 166 ones.

Are the GTA and GTV 24v brembos different?

I was thinking of going with the 305mm discs because it simplifies the bolt pattern. I can get the 330mm ones, and yes, I love the wank factor of being able to say they're 330mm discs (and envy those who can!), but I just won't need them!

Giuletta Evo did an awesome job of providing the transaxle community with his CAD for the 166 brembos- I'll do my bit if no one can help?




Now I need to start remembering how to put the damn thing back together..... I have training in this new aircraft coming up, so time will be in short supply until the end of August...

Great pics - love that shot from above, even without a hood and hatch these cars have such a great look! GV

Looking great . I need that lizard in my race car on tunnel section .
There were two types of brembos that came on the gta . I think it changed in 2004 . My gta sport wagon and 2004 spider have the small brembo on the 305 disc . It seems when they released the gt they then went to the bigger brembo with 330 disc . With the right pad and correct fluid I can run ten hard laps in the wagon so I don't find anything wrong with the smaller brembos . I used this set up on my 3.2 conversion into my 116 gtv and for racing . There were question raised about the 8mm bolts that my bracket went onto but zero failures under harsh conditions .
Some guys here take the bigger brembo like on the 166 /gt and use it on a tiny 285mm disc with 15 inch rims .
I have drawings and maybe some bracket still lying around . I did email them to some one ages ago . You can see that step by step set up In my thread under budget race car born slow deliveryhttp://alfagtv6.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2048&start=210.

In meantime I will search around .

Hey Jules,
Keep up the good work. Always good to see another keeper and especially a personalised one.

Because this will be a road car as well, it will need transport compliance and thereby qualifies for insurance cover. I suggest you do some homework from your certifier on just what will be acceptable modifications before you make the changes and blow the bucks.

ie. the proposed dual master brake set up.

Thanks MD- the idea is for it to have universal appeal as well-
I'm looking at Shannon's- is that who you're going through?

Good idea about checking that- I will ask them!

They will do but also shop around.

The main thing is that your car will need "Blue Plate Certification". A friend recently told me that in Victoria they have toughed up the allowable components of a roll cage for a street car.

A certificate of compliance can only be issued by an approved engineer. Before the car goes for its general road worthy clearance, it will need to be Blue Platted. Anotherwords, a two step process. Naturally, the insurance co. will want to know that it has all its approvals and usually all the mods will be itemised and a policy structured around all this guff.

Sometimes this stuff gets to a point of stupidity. For instance to get my full harness seat belts approved, I had to retain the original lap/sash retractible sealt belts as well AND to make it legal, I was supposed to wear both sets at the same time !!!! How much bullshit can one person take !!

I think you would already know this but it would be remiss of me not to give you the caution.

Jules, you need to consult the certifier not the insurance co. They don't know dick. All they want is the paperwork.

Thanks mike- the blue slip process is reasonable here as long you have an engineer on side- like you say!

I'll end up with a few things that need signing off so I'll do it all in one go.

Cheers!
J

RS kit and watts link arrived on fri, going for a test paint on sat- final tweaking of the colour... Getting excited!

Pictures are needed, bring your camera!

Jules, I am jealous you are on the 777. I am on the 767 and would love to be on the triple. However I must ask, what the heck is a second officer on the 777? Is that like a back up first officer? In the U.S. a second officer is a flight engineer that's also a pilot, but the triple doesn't have an engineer.

Greg

Looking good Jules, will be beautiful to drive.
More pics please.