Ryan , it's gonna be a fun journey . Budgets are always an issue . Best thing about Joemart (gtv 3.0) build to track use was he managed to achieve good performance in the brakes department . I initially tried to convince him to upgrade to big brakes etc but due to budgets he kept the same basic set up ( but maximising the components - quality of discs , pads and fluids)which is works perfectly in our racing series here . It would probably be a different story if we did indurance racing .
With the last five gtv builds(mine , nelsons, konrads, Giuseppe and Jose) we always focused first on reliability at the track and it's always been the simple things that can ruin a race day and worse waste an an entry fee especially in these economic times . Were assuming motor is in running condition with service of plugs , filters , oils .
Basically always started with "rubber "perishables ,this could be whole car but i start with the ones that on average will stops a days racing. These are normally " silly" items that can maintained. The one of the few good things in SA is most of the stuff below is fairly cheap to do so most guys in Europe or US will say - geez their is no budget here ! Anyway this is where to start
1) all seals on brake master , clutch master , clutch slave
2) all fuel lines
3) cam belts , alternator belt ( if alternator belt breaks it normally falls into cam belts - disaster)
4) brake lines x 3 , change to braided while at it . See if any caliper leaks and do break upgrade as discussed above . Should do calipers seals now.
5) inspect all prop couplings ( front and rear are main culprits of destruction)
6) radiator hoses if soft ( remove aircon and heater hoses - race/ road car)
Because car has been standing and it's 23 years old and you going to race I would
1) remove and clean fuel tank ( take to silverton - it's cheap)
2) remove radiator ( get silverton to pressure test and check resorvour bottle including cap)
3) remove injectors and service ( I'm sending mine in next week from my new 12v build - JK inspired )
4) check radiator fans are spinning freely and fans turn on at correct temp
5) check broken engine mounts, gearbox mounts
6) replace all fuses and clean contacts with ear buds . ( cheapest job that can ruin a day at track)
7) check steering rubber bush is still in good cond and not popped out - will show you and at same time recheck all bolts on steering column to rack
From here I would say it's safe to take car out onto road with some confidence to then proceed to next steps without setting car on fire or loosing and engine from belt failure, over heating , etc. However would let car idle for a while and get up to temp to see if any water leaks or fuel leaks. Often pipes ,hoses need to be rechecked once first heat cycle goes into them.
Now next phase begins on items that will impact on racing ( gonna start hurting budget now)
1) suspension bushes - change all ( read up on forum) depending on your budget whether going rs racing kit or fit Alfa original or polyurethane ( limit it to castor arm and centre dedion only if do use polyurethane)
2) inspect suspension ball joints and steering rack for play
3) change front wheel bearings and inspect rear bearings
4) choose budgets on shocks , sway bars , watts linkage
Race prep for our series specific( you can start most of this when doing your basic service in the beginning )
1) wire all oil plugs , filters
2) catchment bottles for water and oil breathers, gearbox breather pipe ( see our regs for sizes)
3) install kill switch ext and int
4) mount fire ext in centre behind hand brake ( must be in reach when buckled)
5) wire or install spring clips on dipstick and oil filler cap
6) roll cage - think now where you want to end up with this car but you can do a combination of a welded in rear section behind driver with bolt in on front . It will be a six point with some flexibility . Spend time here deciding . Here in SA we can drive race cars on the road so our situation is a little unique to rest of world . With this set up you can then weld in front section and even take it through to shock towers . Don't make my mistake of taking rear section ( C pillar) and mount it to rear wheel guards . Must go to rear shock tower . I should have listened to MD , Mats first time around .
7) get race seat but check when doing roll cage it does not interfere
Finally decided how much you want to strip car down but leave engine mods untiil last once your suspension set up is perfect . List above is just a guide so there may be things left out now which can be added .
Most critical item is JK books on v6 motors which you will find at Motor Books in Jan Smuts opposite chatz .