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Turbo assembly...



Hopefully there will be more varied pictures from now on...

Did you go twin scroll? What are the specs on the turbo?

Not twin scroll, Chinese stuff rebuilt by a local Garrett specialist to actually work. 360 bearing and so on. I gues it's like a T3/T04 hybrid, huge.

He he, yep shes a monster.

Love the manifold flange, nice.

When you throwing it on?

I bet it will be on and off a whole bunch of times before it is actually torqued down and the engine fitted in the car. That's the way it goes. Still a lot of parts that needs to be adjusted/designed. Still have no fuel rail for instance and still haven't adapted the intake to take regular injectors. Spray pattern needs to be checked and so on...
Now I'm back on the custom tank and propshaft route so I guess that will take some time too. Got some new joints though which is nice.

Next on the list is oil feed and oil return for the turbo, need to weld in an AN bung in the sump but before I do that I need to check for clearance to the body. I'll probably measure on the 75Evo in the spot next to me though, should be the same. Oil lines to the cooler needs to be fixed too. A bit easier as they are not stainless braided...

Now, a poll...
Should I anodize the plenum black or leave it natural?

Dont weld the bung in...drill and tap it.

Well, it's an AN12 weld bung, so more work to drill and tap then to drill and weld...

Has anybody done a custom dipstick? I need to move mine and that makes it pretty difficult to figure out the positions of the Min and Max marks...
Just filling with the correct amount of oil doesn't work, never EVER had the level stop at Max after an oil change adding the correct amount of oil.
Maybe take a measurement from the bottom of the block on a stock dipstick? Now, who has a stock engine standing around...

Yeah , definetly annodise plennum to match cam cover
I normally have to make a custom dipstick every time I use a different sump . You just got to record all the marks before start and after start . Then cut new marks

Black... match cam cover

Black for sure!

Apparently it can be difficult to anodize welded parts because the welding material and the sheet metal can "take" the pigment very unevenly. I'm happy to say that Black is actually the only color that works in this case.
So either Black or Natural for anodization. If it turns out looking like a turd I can always powder coat it later.

Looks like I will do quite a few black anodized parts actually, I don't want to say something specific about it a the moment but if it works it will add a lot to the over all look and feel of the car. Very exciting.

I have the low tech approach to the custom dip stick (even when I change the angle of the engine )

Fill with factory specs oil quantity. Fire it up with new filter. Allow to drain back.Ensure suspension is sitting level. Mark level on new stick.

I use a custom stick on the Cab because the exhaust headers restrict the use of an original one.

If you measure the angle of the original dipstick tube, the vertical distance from tube top to bottom of the block and the lengths of the dipstick for both the high and low marks, trigonometry should tell you the vertical distance extended below the bottom of the block for both.
Then measure the angle and length of the new dipstick tube and you can calculate the required hypotenuse length to match the original mark's vertical distances....

But I failed highschool maths, so I'd probably just fit both the new dipstick and the original one, then fill the sump to the low line and mark the level on the new dipstick, then repeat for the high mark

Wow...

I was thinking more on the lines of just measuring hur far down from the splitline between the sump and block the Min mark is and be happy with that.

The AN12 oil return from the turbo needs to be changed, the hose will be about 50mm long and needs to be angled about 45*. Not going to happen. Anyone that has fitted an AN coupling will know this to be impossible to even fit when properly assembled...

Tried to assemble the AN4 teflon line for the oil feed. Haven't felt that kind of rage in a while... Maybe pay someone to make it for me will be better for my health.

On the other hand... The manifold is done!!!!!
It's now fitted to the engine and it looks and fits great. A bit tight to the engine mount but the EGT-sender is well clear. So will the brake and clutch MC be when everything is in the car. Not something you can say about the original position, quite the opposite.

Snapped some pics of the exhaust gaskets, this is not news for anyone who test fits everything before torquing it down but it's still a heads-up for anyone. Had to grind away a few millimeters to be sure it won't enter the exhaust tract. The pics are in the most favourable position, if its pushed down-back it protrudes a good 1.5-2mm into the exhaust stream. What about changing the tooling for this part? no?

Maybe I should drop the whole thing into the engine bay this weekend? Then I can start to add stuff to the engine and wire it up.
Also need to figure out the positioning of some parts like ignition coil, breather tanks and such. Fuel and oil lines anyone?

Looks great mats!