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Hoping some of guys studied materials or work with this might help with answer about using stainless steel bolts ( cap screws) to fasten the banjo fitting to the side of the dellorto carbs on the GTV 3.0 . The problem is they keep coming loose either through vibration or friction between Zinc die cast and stainless steel bolt or even different expansion rates .
I had these bolt cut specially to 18mm long with pin holes through the heads to wire lock so its a mission to change to galv dipped bolts . If stainless bolts are the cause then I will change over . Their are total 12 bolts that hold the banjos on . I really don't want to over tighten them ?
Also is it a problem long term if I wire lock them in position that they seize up ?

Kevin,

You could experiment with applying an anti-seize paste to the threads and then wire them up once tensioned. Simple enough.

If you don't like that idea, perhaps you could use a low strength chem lock fluid that is resistant to fuel. You may need to get some advice from the supplier about an appropriate brew.

Both cheap solutions.

Thanks MD , I put in galv plated steel cap screws with a bit of anti seize . I only drilled the bolts one way for locking wire not two ways . I binned the stainless steel ones .
Then watched great youtube clip on learning the technique of locking wire from this link . Took about three tries until I was happy I got the tension right . Worth watching .
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFjUX6SaY8
Some pics of job done and after a few best cyles all is good and no leaks .

I'm sure you have a good reason for going stainless here, but why? I assume the originals are brass, strong enough, don't corrode with fuel, etc. So why stainless here?

Thanks,
Scott

Hi Scott
Before I shipped the car from South Africa to Uk I was changing these bolts and thought I would go stainless to protect against any corrosion . But I bit the bullet and removed them today and replaced with steel cap screws instead . I was panicking about rust and rightly so . I see my wheel bolts are corroding but there is no ways I'm going to use stainless steel in those again . I learnt my lesson once already .

Wheel bolts? You think wheel bolts is a long term problem?
Tip: Don't put your car on a hoist/lift...

Why would you worry about the under carriage?

For the last 30 years, there has been oil leak or spray crusted over there under carriage. It's one of those few rare moments where Italian "engineering" trumps British weather.

Sadly this is gonna be one of those cars that only comes out in summer and stays indoors through the whole winter salting period . I did repaint the car underneath and cavity wax all the internal cills with Dinitrol under pressure . Then put copper grease on every exposed bolt thread underneath . My next plan is to take all door rubbers off and clean up and put back with dinitrol on them .
And then one day I will drive the car and enjoy it
Actually I will try do that at the same time while this summer seams half decent . Getting used to this low altitude and humidity is different coming from 6000ft . Just trying to find best spark plugs at the moment for these carbs . I do have ngk b7es but thinking of trying golden lodge 2hl which another gtv3.0 recommends . He says his car goes better and clears its idling earlier .
Speaking of corrosion again - do you guys always oil the washer on the spark plugs or do you normally just use Alfas self engineering tappet cover oil leak ?

I always put Never-seize on the plug threads. I use the 1600deg f rated stuff from Permatex. I also use it for lug bolts/nuts, exhausts, etc.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... ant-detail