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new type tensioner
Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:39 am
I'm about to convert my 2.5L to the new type tensioner. I have ordered the new tensioner from IAP and they sent an installation description with the part. Following the description i should remove the long stud in the block that used to fasten the hydraulic belttensioner. Next, it says i should install part 608-97506 in the hole in the block with threadlocker. So now to my question: What kind of partnumber is this ? It doesn't appear on IAP's website and my local Alfadealer said it was not a alfa partnumber either. Do you guys have a source for this part ?
Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 3:50 am
Peab - working from memory this would be the allen head stud which serves to block the original oil-feed hole so that oil can't come out.It should be part of the kit.
Follow the instruction VERY carefully.Pay particular attention to the recommendations re ambient temperature during installation and the tensioning adjustment must be done EXACTLY as described.Overtorqueing the tensioner can break a poorly engineered spring which can lead to catastrophic failure.
Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 4:39 am
I think there are two things going on here, the oil feed through the long stud now uses a none-hollow stud in the hole, apply thread lock and clean the threads in the block to remove all oil so the thread lock works. Then on the larger oil return hole, you actually have to cut threads into the block for the plug to screw in to, be careful with this as not to get metal into the block while cutting the treads.
Does anyone have the Alfacentro link with pictures for this procedure, the site was very useful. Good Luck!
Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 1:20 pm
hmm.. my kit didn't have this special stud included. So now i have to find this elsewhere then. Will pay my alfa-dealer a visit too see if they can get it for me. Btw. my engine has been partially modified by previous owner, so the oil holes have already been plugged. But it was still running the old type tensioner, without any oil passing through it anymore. So it was operating with the spring tightening the belt only, no de-tensioning. i have been driving in this condition for 5 years, without any mishaps.
Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:09 pm
I think my advice to you is fill it with grease and leave it alone! I think that is the ideal setup!
This is the link, it should help you if you decide otherwise.
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:18 pm
Thanks for the link, Sam. From the pictures in the article the special stud i miss was shown. Didn't look to complicated, so today i decided to use a few hours on manufacturing a replica. Used a leftover finethread M10 bolt and made some regular M8 threads in the other end. Result was acceptable, so i will use this now.
My old modified hydraulic tensioner has an unknown milage on it. I'm thinking that it is better to use a brand new mechanical tensioner than this old stuff, so i will proceed with the fitment as described in the article.
One problem i have is that the fitment guide calls for an ambient temperature above 15deg Celcius during adjustment. In my garage i have temperatures in the range 8-10 now... Waiting to the spring comes would break my timeschedule here completely. Anyone who knows how much a cold climate affects the adjusting of these tensioners ? Should i perhaps leave the alignment marks a bit offset in this condition ?
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:52 pm
They seem to break just as easily regardless of shop temperature.
Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 7:26 pm
That’s just ridicules!!
Shop temp bla,bla… this item is useless! using a cheap ass spring.
Fill it up with grease and forget about it, I have had it on for years and never had any problems.
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:45 pm
I think the only thing that goes wrong with the old style besides the oil leak, is the bearing and you can still get them, I say put a new bearing on your old tensioner and reuse it again. I hae had good luk with the new style but there are plenty who have not
Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:04 pm
yeah im not a big fan of the new style tensioner, i had one slip, bent a bunch of valves, luckily i know how to do my own engine repair, that would have been expensive!
Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:02 am
Not following your good advise
i installed the new tensioner yesterday. So far all seems well. HAd to try a quople of times to get the marks aligned, as the tension tended to offset the alignement a bit.
Since my old hydraulic tensioner was modified with plugged oilpassages, it didn't feel right to put it back on, as it doesn't perform any detensioning anymore.
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:36 am
Peab, you just had the best working tensioner there is. Plugged oil passages means the previous owner did his homework. The new style tensioner is CRAP! How do I know? Because I had 3 failures in one summer! Luckily for me it only skipped one tooth every time.(and I did follow all procedures with the install described by AR).
I rebuilt my old tensioner, plugged the passages and filled it with grease. Tension is always perfect, even with a hot engine and I don't have to worry about my tensioner failing. Most of us have been driving these cars for years and have experience with this crappy new tensioner, we warn you out of experience and prevent you making a mistake we have made already.
Damn, now I sound like a schoolteacher........
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 4:45 am
Good luck to you, like I said, I have had good luck with them, so hopefully you will too, don't throw your old one away, keep it for a while, maybe I will buy it from you if my luck ever runs out! Enjoy the car!
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 5:25 am
I'm about to install a 75 3.0-engine in my GTV6 and I definitely want to keep my hydraulic de-tensioner after everything I've read about the mechanical one. The 3.0-engine is now equipped with the mechanical and therefor it's already plugged.
How much grease is supposed to be used to fill the hydraulic de-tensioner. Just a little for lubrication??
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 7:34 am
Why is itnecessary to to fill the old hydraulic tensioner with grease?