ALFAGTV6.COM

la_strega_nera wrote:Ok, so how are they different?

For a 164, the manual intermediate shaft is about 6mm closer to the engine. The housing has an oval bearing surface and three ovals for the bearing mount bolts. Depending on usage, the mount is machined so that the manual shaft fits near and the automatic shaft fits further from the engine.

My 2002 engine was automatic. I attempted to use the 2002 mount in order to avoid having to make the offered adapter. I found that the newer automatic transaxles are different yet from the 164, ZF18 vs ZF20, or something. There appears to be additional variation, the shaft alignment seemed to be off in both the vertical and horizontal fit.

Ok, interesting...
Pulled the adaptor off my 98 24valve motor, found it's unthreaded and the centre bit and the outer seal surface are flush - guess the options are adapting manual 24valve 164 mount or making up a take off plate for a remote mount oil filter/thermostat/cooler - don't really feel like tapping the hole.

Hey hey, Just wanted to comment, that my 24v engine also had the oil cooler removed. The oilfilter is now bolted on with M 20x1.5 thread, plug provided by the solution Kevin provided.

In a few months I will install a oil cooler, because I don't feel comfertable driving without one.
It will be a set bought of www.sandtler.com

Cheap, nice and small, and won't obscure the engine mounts.

My suggestion!

Have decided to go with a cnc'd take off plate that picks up off the factory mounting holes and doesn't care if it's a tapped central hole or not and run a remote mount filter - will be making at least 2...

I'm also in process of "undressing" a 164 sourced 24v for my GTV and have just removed oil filter/cooler assembly - which looks just like the first pic on page one of this thread.

The block fitting underneath is in the style of the bottom right hand one in Kevin's photo of three types, but getting it out to swap for a threaded one is prompting this post & question - it's soooooo tight that I even thought it might be a left hand thread, although I can see now from the photo's that it's a normal one. Seeing as my breaker bar plus 3 ft pipe extension is bending like plasticine I'm worried about sheering the nut or tearing a chunk of alloy out of the block!

Is there a trick to this, or shall I just continue with a stronger breaker bar and strategic use of a hammer to break the seal & get it moving.

Just trying to avoid damaging and thus scrapping an otherwise good block.

Steve, both blocks I built were friggin tight. As you said use the hammer to tap some shock waves in while you put severe leverage on with a good socket . It's a pop a vein in the fore head effort required :

We know that aluminum expands more than steel with heat, which suggests adding heat. HOWEVER, I can see where Al threads would lock into steel threads when hot. This explains why there is a rule to remove spark plugs in an Al head only when cold.

One suggestion is to heat, tap. Then, totally cool before proceeding. To be totally safe, talk this through before adding heat.

I recall the full pain of wrestling with one of these last year.

Thanks for the tips
In the end I got it out without any tricks - used a 3 foot long reversable 250ftlb torque wrench, so brute force did the job! Now just need to source the correct threaded replacement fitting, or figure out how to remove the correct one from my 12v block without destroying it.

cheers

See what type of filter you want to use . I moved over to the one typical for vw as it's bigger in capacity than the standard 164 by quite a bit( most are) and it's smaller in diameter as the standard 12v gtv. The o ring is also thicker so it tightens up properly because if it's to thin the outer of the filter catches against the block . As mentioned check depth of insert so oil can pass into filter without restriction .

Hi all
I have removed the oil filter heat exchanger from the 164 engine and the fitting which is screwed into the block
The picture below shows the screw which is threaded into the block and has the o ring
Where the screw fits to the block is recessed a few mm from the facing where the adaptor fits
I noticed earlier that kev has used a threaded tube which I presume is the same thread along its length and matches the one I removed
my question is does the gtv6 oil filter have a diffent thread to the 164
The reason I ask this is I tried to fit the screw to the 164 oil filter and it doesn't fit so I presume when kev fitted the threaded tube to the block then he must have used a different oil filter
is this correct

trying to attach imges

attached images

See page before

Hi Kev
As you probably are aware I have started on the 24 valve conversion again and am now at the oil filter stage

I take on board your comment about using a uniform thread for the oil filter stud
On your block you tapped a thread which I presume matches the gtv oil filter but as my block already has a thread my issue is if I use a threaded tube the same as the one in my 164 block will I get an oil filter to match

hope this makes sense

You seem to need the standard 164 12V oil filter attachment. Ideally, you can find a part number and order this part. I would expect that this item is difficult to remove without damaging it.