ALFAGTV6.COM

Hi guys,

I've picked up a 1988(?) 75/Milano 3.0 that had a pretty bad smack up the arse at 110,000km. I've read through just about every thread I could find on what I need to do to drop a complete 75/Milano 3.0 into my GTV6 and here's what I've figured out so far;

- I'm using the 3.0 flywheel and starter, so engaging the ring gear won't be an issue.
- The ECU and AFM need to be swapped in as well, but the injection wiring harness remains the same.
- Require the use of the GTV6 thermostat housing to connect to existing radiator.

That's about all I've got...

I was thrown a curve ball last night when I was reading about the change in overall block length that occurred not long before the 164 was released. This seems to be generally accepted among the guys on the BB.

If so, what did Alfa do for to account for the 4mm (stated) difference? Did they use different driveshaft couplings? Or is there some extra meat on the flywheel to bridge the gap?

I've heard whispers of a different centre coupling depending on model year of the 75/Milano... Can anyone confirm/deny this?

I guess what I'm asking is; If I end up with the shorter variant (haven't got the motor in my possession yet), can I transfer the bellhousing and everything along with it? Does the rear engine mount bolt straight up? Or is the bellhousing a different length to accommodate the block? I guess I need to know if I need to use the 75/Milano couplings, too...

Keep in mind, I have access to an entire donor car so I can swap over anything that might be required/handy.

I'm sorry to bring this conversion up yet again - I'm sure you guys are sick of hearing about it! Please feel free to tear my logic (and me, for that matter) to shreds

Grazie Mille

Alex,

Obviously you are aware that there is a 4mm difference in body positionings depending on whether Luiggi built it or Fanko built it. That sort of difference is almost irrelevant and can easily be accommodated as and where it requires it. eg. the entire transaxle can be moved fore and aft by at least that much to cater for such variations. Engine mounts can be elongated a bit and like wise the centre bearing mount.

So don't sweat it, just get your finger out and get that howler on the road man.

Just swap the entire engine over...

The propshaft has a sliding piece after the front guibo, that will easily take 4mm difference if they exist.

I've used 164 engines for transplants and never had any problems.