ALFAGTV6.COM

[Saabretooth]

Yep, the engine ECU is already set up for 7300 rpm.
noting that there's a certain rpm I shouldn't cross unless I balance the pistons and the engine.

I don't want to blow a piston or a crank.

Its doing very decent power at the moment. but to get it to 320 hp, i think there's a lot more to be done than just raising the rpm.

When you say Tan Motors, you mean the one in Malaysia or Singapore?

[75evo]

Malaysia. But check with him first (Keong). He is getting older and sometimes less enthusiastic about tuning.

BTW, if you engine is factory balanced, you shouldn't have any problems with 7300 rpm. Our engines are short stroke engines. Even the 3.2 has only 78mm, if we had 86mmx86mm that would be great, but 78mm means 7300 rpm on occasional run is not a big deal.

[Saabretooth]

Thanks 75evo.

From my readings, I understand that the 24v is good for 7600 on a factory balanced unit.
If its good enough, I could ask the tuner to raise the rev limit.

To get the cams tuned, I'd still need the adjustable sprockets like the one Jim showed.
Have to wait patiently till it gets done.

[AlanV6]

yety i know you follow my thread too. My 3.0 was somewhere around 270 bhp (when in my fwd gtv) as i was on par with megane and focus RS on 0 to 200kph acceleration (similar weight than my gtv)
After that i rebuilded the engine again (i wanted to balance it by Jim's book) and it now lives in my lightened 156. Still no remap done and now on stock intake (wont use my intake until a standalone ecu is fitted)
I did 6 trackdays and a lot of street driving and engine is smooth as silk now and stronger than ever.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1JkZHhNN4U

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLNo8Z6RKzA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwB19YWaW60

[yetyGTA]

Thanks Alan. You are right. I was following your both threads. On here as well as on AO. And saw your new toy and the vids of you driving it on Grobnik track. Really like your DIY and low budget approach very much. Forces you to come up with very nice alternative solutions. Moreover you are one of the few on AO that not only upgraded but also track tested.

I'm currently struggling to undo the main pulley nut (was trying only once for few minutes and gave up when the steel tube started becoming a V shape).

As the engine is from a 166 automatic and will go into a transaxle I still don't know what flywheel I should be looking after. Can anyone help please?

[75evo]

Just a note, working on a 24V is a real pain in the a$$ compared to the 12V, especially an FWD 24V. I suppose in a 75 with no A/C and electric power steering, there would be less pulleys and so it won't be as bad. But on a GTV6 with the hood opening the wrong way, A/C, power steering etc...... harakiri would be better

I wouldn't be exaggerating to say if a 12V timing belt takes me 1-2 hours on a slow day. At the track if in a real rush, 30mins isn't exactly impossible.

I sort of wish I had gone for a 3.0 12V with a rotrex.

[kevin]

Z don't panic , the 24v in the transaxle is really easy to work on at the track . To do cambelts is pretty quick the time consuming part is removing the coil packs .
To work on it in the fwd to change plugs is NIGHTMARE and If the starter motor is problematic I rather send it in to a garage . Absolutely hate it in fwd .
Z you always remove the bonnet on the GTV anyway when doing belts whether 12v or 24v unless you enjoy stress

[75evo]

Words of encouragement

I'm doing my 164 Super's water pump and timing belt hence the bitterness.

My friend Larry bought a set of maxspeeding rods and he said they look good. But the lack of offset.....still bothering me.

BTW he is looking for 101mm liners. Do you or your mates in Serf Africa have a set for sale at a reasonable price? This is for his 3.5L 24v GTV 105 GTA replica.

[yetyGTA]

Trying to undo the nut from the main pulley led to braking the socket.


Just bought a straight 3/4 without using the reduction and it did the trick.


Removing the camshaft pulleys was quite easy.


One of the things on my list is to relocate the thermostat back to the cambelt side. So far it seems should be possible. There are the same openings for the coolant on both sides of the heads. Still need to find out how exactly the thermostat housing, waterpump unit, etc. from e.g. a 164 looks like. Does anyone has pictures?

[75evo]

BTW, I bought a set of maxspeeding rods. Larry measured his set and the tolerances for the roundness of the small and big ends were definitely very acceptable.

FYI, new Alfa con rod bolts may cost between $150-$200. You need to ask yourself if you can pay a bit more to get big rods that will safely do 7500 rpm. Stock rods would do it too, but those rods, no matter how you look at it, are at least 10 years old.

[Jim K]

Tha Alfa price for new gta rods is 117€ each, so you're looking at 700€/set!
Jim K.

[Saabretooth]

Hi Jim,
Just want to check out the overlap on the cams that I've got.

I seem to get low rpm Lambda code error as well as fueling error on all 6 cylinders on low rpms as well as idling.

On the high end, there are no errors at all, but after a hard pull and the revs start to come down, the error pops up again
P1173 and other stuff. Just want to check if this can be tuned away or will it be an inherrent symptom of these cams?

I've got it tuned on the ECU itself, and not a piggy back.

Thanks JK

[Jim K]

Now here's something I can't help you with. Your cams are higher performance than my cams. I have 9.7mm lift and you have 10mm and a few more degrees duration. In my application I don't have any idiot lights or fault codes since its a 164Q4 engine into a 75. I had the stock ecu mapped and I drove around for a long time with the wbo hooked up. Very good afr across the range. My cr is 11.3:1 and engine temps constantly ~78-85*C. I don't know what this combination would do to modern engine check parameters...
I have no clue about fault codes but isn't there a way to cancel them permanently? I know people here are doing it with various cars.
You definitely have more overlap area with these cams and the system sees the increased emissions as a problem.
Jim K.

[Saabretooth]

I see..

its not a worry, the performance is still great. its the damn MSCF light that causes irritation.

Also, I'll probably need to check on another thing, running 4000 to 7000 rpm regularly on my 2-3 hour drives is wonderful. but when I shut the engine down and restart later, its like not enough fuel is entering the engine, and I have to throttle the accelerator so many times just to start the engine again.

wonder if its the ECU parameters..... trying to normalize the fuel pump to prevent the error/overfueling at idle from happening.

So much for technology.

[Jim K]

The more advanced a system is, the more difficult it becomes to fool its functions. For example, 30 years ago you could richen the mixture at will with a resistor in the ecu coolant temp input and it would work. Try that today... It'll go in safe mode and blink all kinds of codes...
Jim K.