Just a quick thread for reference as I've just spent ages searching out other threads for pictures of tools and techniques for removing, timing and refitting the cam pulleys. (I need to change the cam oil seals and then make sure the timing is spot on afterwards)
Tool to lock the cams together if you need to can be seen here:
http://alfa.denovich.org/twiki/bin/view ... ulleyTools
Tool to remove retaining cap & home made "adjuster" :
http://www.alfapower.nu/gallery/album416/abk
Picture of cams showing slotted retainer pulleys for exact adjustment if necessary:
http://www.alfapower.nu/gallery/album416/abi
Also heard that many Alfa racers simply remove the cam locking "key" and rely on the morse taper at the end of each camshaft being robust enough when the retaining bolt is tightened up to work perfectly well and be infinitely adjustable. As the factory morse taper plus key is a "belt and braces" option I'll probably stick with it and file the holes if I need fine adjustment.
All credit given where due to those who made and posted the photo's of the tools. I'm only posting this to make is easier to find for anyone in future - especially me !
Cam Pulley Tools
83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
Re: Cam Pulley Tools
Steve R wrote:Just a quick thread for reference as I've just spent ages searching out other threads for pictures of tools and techniques for removing, timing and refitting the cam pulleys. (I need to change the cam oil seals and then make sure the timing is spot on afterwards)
Tool to lock the cams together if you need to can be seen here:
http://alfa.denovich.org/twiki/bin/view ... ulleyTools
Steve,
Any reason why you've used two bolts instead of three . . . or why the "open end" instead of a closed loop at each end? Is this a manufacturing consideration.
Jim Steck
Hi, 4sfed
No particular reason other than it's easier to make and fit. I made my own version of that specific tool a couple of years ago, but don't have a photo, hence I referenced that url.
It's works fine and is very useful to stop anything moving when changing the cambelt.
No particular reason other than it's easier to make and fit. I made my own version of that specific tool a couple of years ago, but don't have a photo, hence I referenced that url.
It's works fine and is very useful to stop anything moving when changing the cambelt.
83' GTV6, 3.0 24v supercharged
Jim,
That's the cam locking plate I made a few year's ago. It was posted on the old GTV6.org site. The reason I only used 2 bolts was that I wanted to make sure at least one bolt stayed in place so nothing moved. At the time I didn't know what would move if all 3 bolts were taken out at once.
Maybe a new section on this site could be started to show some of the "tools" and methods many of us have made/used to get certain jobs done.
David
That's the cam locking plate I made a few year's ago. It was posted on the old GTV6.org site. The reason I only used 2 bolts was that I wanted to make sure at least one bolt stayed in place so nothing moved. At the time I didn't know what would move if all 3 bolts were taken out at once.
Maybe a new section on this site could be started to show some of the "tools" and methods many of us have made/used to get certain jobs done.
David
1985 GTV6 3.0 Zender Body Kit - Red