Into the rebuild stage. Gonna use the old block that I scored a week or two back. There has been a broken rod flapping round in there but nothing too serious damage wise. The rest of that motor is pretty shagged. Well totally rooted actually. So we're gonna use the crank and rods from the original motor.
Now this is where the problems begin: The pistons and sleves from the original motor look realitivaly new. Like they are forged looking type A E brand?? Which I could use with a new set of rings. Alfa oil rings and total seals. Are alfa 2.5 litre oil rings available on thier own, or do you have to buy the whole set?
Or should I score a set of Borgo brand off IAP with rings and everything ready to go? They seem cheap. The thing is that, what is a set of genuine rings gonna cost? More than the borgo stuff? Are the borgo genuine Alfa oil rings?
Any ideas?? Thanx Tim.
OK OK I should have been more on to it! AE pistons = AE Borgo froM IAP. Doh!
Any way hope that the kit is on its way. Got the cams at the grinders [www.kelfords.co.nz ]
They're doing thier thing. Scored a set of 2nd hand headers off ebay which I will probably get Jet Hot coated. Ebay also supplied me a 100w altenator. And the starter is getting a reco round at the local auto sparkies.
Getting shagged round a little with the gapless rings tho. Left a few emails at the Total seal dealers, but it seems that they are all too busy to reply.
Will have to start looking harder when the stuff from IAP shows up.
Tim.
Any way hope that the kit is on its way. Got the cams at the grinders [www.kelfords.co.nz ]
They're doing thier thing. Scored a set of 2nd hand headers off ebay which I will probably get Jet Hot coated. Ebay also supplied me a 100w altenator. And the starter is getting a reco round at the local auto sparkies.
Getting shagged round a little with the gapless rings tho. Left a few emails at the Total seal dealers, but it seems that they are all too busy to reply.
Will have to start looking harder when the stuff from IAP shows up.
Tim.
Update
Things seem to be going from bad to worse!! The engine that I scored from the wrecker in Christchurch, turns out to be useless due to the cylinder sleeve seats being pitted from electrollisis. Soo went back to the original block wich had some indentations in the decks from the removal of the seized heads. But the head studs were also seized solid. Took it down to the local machine shop for them to (what I thought) drill out the studs and retap the threads. No! They decided that welding a dirty big nut on the top of the stud and applying masses of heat to the seized area and screwing them out was a better idea.
As soon as I picked up the block and saw the blackened alloy I knew that there was going to be more trouble. Sure enough, the sleeves, when seated back on their spots wound not spin round at all. The dickhead has tweaked the block completely. Ovaled the holes!!
I'm not gonna pay that bill! What a tossa.. Just as well I managed to find yet another engine (dissasembled but complete) in the North island. Has some new bits and pieces with it and a set of adjustable cam wheels. This poor guy bought in a low mileage GTV6 from Canada with 30k miles on it. Swaped it over to Right hand drive, done up a flash 2.5 litre for it, and then the LTSA (dumbass govt transport authority here) told him that it needs to be frontal impact tested. That involves smashing into a block wall at 60 mph. More dickheads!!
Really hanging out to get this thing going! Wish me luck!!!!
As soon as I picked up the block and saw the blackened alloy I knew that there was going to be more trouble. Sure enough, the sleeves, when seated back on their spots wound not spin round at all. The dickhead has tweaked the block completely. Ovaled the holes!!
I'm not gonna pay that bill! What a tossa.. Just as well I managed to find yet another engine (dissasembled but complete) in the North island. Has some new bits and pieces with it and a set of adjustable cam wheels. This poor guy bought in a low mileage GTV6 from Canada with 30k miles on it. Swaped it over to Right hand drive, done up a flash 2.5 litre for it, and then the LTSA (dumbass govt transport authority here) told him that it needs to be frontal impact tested. That involves smashing into a block wall at 60 mph. More dickheads!!
Really hanging out to get this thing going! Wish me luck!!!!
Tim how serious is the pitting of the liner seats in your block ? I as well as many others have had success filling these "pits" with JB weld and then sanding the surface smooth.Obviously this will only work if the surface isn't totally chewed up.
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
Good grief Tim.Sorry to hear about your never ending hassels mate. 
Had to laugh at your refrence to the dickheads in your transport authority.Don't feel alone we have an equaly inept bunch of numbskulls on this side of the pond,made me laugh though.
Hope Murray's suggestion to use JB Weld helps as that stuff has bailed my friends and I out on a couple of ocassions but that was on the old Nord engines.
Had to laugh at your refrence to the dickheads in your transport authority.Don't feel alone we have an equaly inept bunch of numbskulls on this side of the pond,made me laugh though.
Hope Murray's suggestion to use JB Weld helps as that stuff has bailed my friends and I out on a couple of ocassions but that was on the old Nord engines.
"Racing is life,everything before and after is just waiting."- Steve Mqueen
The pits are not too serious. I really would like to have a minter engine though.
Tell me more about this JB Weld.. We have this stuff here called Selleys Neadit. Its like a grey roll the size of 2 fingers with a white core of different stuff that you cut a slice off and nead it together untill its amalgamated. Then you would force it into the likes of a pitted surface and sand back as you have described.
Sound like the same thing?
Cheerz Tim.
Tell me more about this JB Weld.. We have this stuff here called Selleys Neadit. Its like a grey roll the size of 2 fingers with a white core of different stuff that you cut a slice off and nead it together untill its amalgamated. Then you would force it into the likes of a pitted surface and sand back as you have described.
Sound like the same thing?
Cheerz Tim.
Tim JB Weld is a two part epoxy resin/catalyst.Its nice to work with because before it begins to set up it's "creamy" and can be spread quite smoothly over the surface.Once it hardes it's not going anywhere.Any chance you can show us a picture of the pitting in your cylinder bores ?
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
Cylinder seats
Heres a couple of shots that dont really tell the whole story. Quite hard to acurately capture. But the pitting ranges from a nasty eaten out chunk from the inner block wall close to the seats, to some pitting on the seat sufaces themselves. The rusty spot you can see on the pics. They average aprox 1-1.5mm deep.
Found some stuff at the engineering supply shop today that sounds like you JB Weld. Only this stuff is $150 N.Z. for a small tube and a small tube of hardener. The guy said it is the Bees Knees for metal replacement job like this.
Will wait to see if this other engine is in good condition and hope to use that. Got a few spares lying round the show now.
Tim.
Found some stuff at the engineering supply shop today that sounds like you JB Weld. Only this stuff is $150 N.Z. for a small tube and a small tube of hardener. The guy said it is the Bees Knees for metal replacement job like this.
Will wait to see if this other engine is in good condition and hope to use that. Got a few spares lying round the show now.
Tim.
- Attachments
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- GTV6 pitting1.JPG (34.9 KiB) Viewed 10915 times
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- Pitting 2.JPG (62.62 KiB) Viewed 10918 times
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- Pitting 3.JPG (89.51 KiB) Viewed 10919 times
Tim I agree that it's hard to tell from the photos. From what I can see I'd try the epoxy. I guess we're talking about a seal that has to resist the max pressure of the cooling system while withstanding the heat transferred from combustion down the cylinder barrels. My engine had numerous little divots right on the "sealing” surface in 3 cylinders and the JB weld worked fine. This one calls for a knowledgeable second opinion considering the work involved if my suggestion doesn't work.
Here's a link to the product.It costs something like $10 cdn.=12.3110 NZD
http://jbweld.net/dealer/index.php
Here's a link to the product.It costs something like $10 cdn.=12.3110 NZD
http://jbweld.net/dealer/index.php
1986-GTV6
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
1989-75 Twinspark very sadly sold-remarkable sedan !
2014 Audi Q5 3.0l TDI - torque MONSTER
Hi Mats 
no no grease pure silcone (i think red one heat resistant)
this is from jim stek but if you want i can dig from where i have it !!
"Another couple places that I think NEED silicone are the base of the liners .
.
. don't rely on the o-rings unless the block is perfect . . . and the 'cigar
seals' for the rear main bearing. Put a little silicone in the holes before
inserting the seals.
" now i have bad problem ... water in the oil and my TS is on parts .. and probably bad o-ring seals on botom of liners
no no grease pure silcone (i think red one heat resistant)
this is from jim stek but if you want i can dig from where i have it !!
"Another couple places that I think NEED silicone are the base of the liners .
.
. don't rely on the o-rings unless the block is perfect . . . and the 'cigar
seals' for the rear main bearing. Put a little silicone in the holes before
inserting the seals.
" now i have bad problem ... water in the oil and my TS is on parts .. and probably bad o-ring seals on botom of liners
more from jim 
" If you use RTV at the base of the liners, put all the liners in first (without crank or pistons/rods) and hold them in place overnight with the head (use your old head gasket) torqued to 30-35 ft-lbs.
"
RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone
"I use RTV in only a couple places-in all cases without paper gaskets: timing cover, oil pan cigarette seals (squirt some into the hole before installing the seal), rear cover - oil drain on back of block cylinder liners to the block (without the factory O-rings), and water pump.
"
" If you use RTV at the base of the liners, put all the liners in first (without crank or pistons/rods) and hold them in place overnight with the head (use your old head gasket) torqued to 30-35 ft-lbs.
"
RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone
"I use RTV in only a couple places-in all cases without paper gaskets: timing cover, oil pan cigarette seals (squirt some into the hole before installing the seal), rear cover - oil drain on back of block cylinder liners to the block (without the factory O-rings), and water pump.
"
-
beatle_bayly
- Silver
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Jul 02, 2005 2:46 am
- Location: Northern Territory, Australia
The high-temp silicone we use on gas turbine engines at work is:
Dow Corning RTV736.
RTV732 is also a slightly lower-temp alternative.
May also be listed as 736RTV (Mil-A-46106).
Note that this stuff is acetic curing NOT neutral curing so is corrosive until it 'goes off'.
The tube says it's good for furnaces, stovepipes etc etc. It comes in a green tube.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/ai ... alant.html
"Titeseal" may be another option though I've never used it myself.
Dow Corning RTV736.
RTV732 is also a slightly lower-temp alternative.
May also be listed as 736RTV (Mil-A-46106).
Note that this stuff is acetic curing NOT neutral curing so is corrosive until it 'goes off'.
The tube says it's good for furnaces, stovepipes etc etc. It comes in a green tube.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/ai ... alant.html
"Titeseal" may be another option though I've never used it myself.