ALFAGTV6.COM

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:33 am

Scott,
Torsion bars are in with the adjustable cam 'levers' for ride height(autodelta). This runs with my RS coil over set up. Probably wondering why I did not just put heavier springs in but answer is it takes forever to get them here in SA so I had this set up lying around and put it in. Took six hours but thats what happens when you have three broken ribs at the sternum and working half pace.(had accident in a river- not car related- so the wife cannot ban me yet).
Putting on big brembos tomorrow. The so called diet my car was going on will gain another 15kg. Gonna have to put the fiberglass doors on.
Cheers

MR2 Zig · Post by **MR2 Zig** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:02 pm

OWIE

Sorry to hear that you got busted up like that.

If you leave the curb bashing to ole' Nigel Mansell you may well do alright. It would be a sudden shock or hard hit that would break things (like anything else I suppose).

Nice that you have that adjuster. The mopar uses a hex end at front and rear of the bar and a screw type adjuster in the middle of the lower control arm.

Good luck with it.

Scott

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 12:41 pm

kevin wrote: I heard you cant swap them as the molecular structure aligns itself in one direction. Cant see this as for every reaction there is an opposite and equal reaction except if the car is standing(maybe thats where the alignment occurs). Well I sure as hell dont know !

I call BullShit.

Mount them whichever way you want, they will be just fine.

Post by **Zamani** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:25 pm

To realign the molecular structure don't you need extreme heat as well? I think Mats is very likely correct.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:54 pm

Hey, thanks Mats, now you must just make me feel better about the new brake set up with the m12 bolts shown a few pages ago. The more I look at it stronger it 'seems'. Brakes are on. I have moved the disc 12mm inwards(sits 3mm away from stub axle upright) and have 15mm spacer. All this just to run 15'' rims. Again if anyone wants to put these brembos on which have 'ears' , my tip would be to stay away. I do believe the bracket can be improved on by extending the bracket to a third point on the other side of the hub drilled through the other dust guard point. Definately no chance of failure as you have three m12 bolts attached to the hub and no longer a bending moment about the front of the hub only and also very little lever arm on the hub.

x-rad · Post by **x-rad** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:42 am

if they are new, mount either side. For a given rod, they all come out of the same manufacturing process.

However, for torsion rods, the angular return force will over time due to internal shear and restructuring of the crystalline matrix develop a subtle 'memory', secondary to the direction of force applied. Therefore, for used rods, I would mount them on the same side they came from.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:14 pm

Well, i will see what happens next week. Here are some pics

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:17 pm

See the gap between hub and disc. Soon I will also find out how much or if the hub flexes.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:19 pm

caliper bracket. Its getting 'stronger' every time I look at it. Its whole moment is about the centre(more or less)

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:22 pm

Pic of a 15mm spacer to go on so the bolts of the split rim will miss caliper. The widened origionals (2.5 rims)will not fit anymore which is sad as they are spares and still look great.

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:35 pm

Wish I could run the Autodelta setup for adjustable torsion bars on the Milano race car - I envy you!!!

Have you considered converting the castor rod to ball joint? A simple mod compared to the other stuff you're doing.

Jes

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 10:19 pm

Jes, I did it on my other car which has the custom made upper control arm. I found it quite a mission as the ears of the ball joint(105 series) did not fit and had to do some panel beating and metal stretching. Also the coring of the bigger hole took some time. So I just bought the polyurethane kit from performatek. If I laser a thick spacer for the ball joint to bring it away 6mm from the body I will do it or a ball joint with smaller ears by 5mm overall.

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:19 pm

Hmm... is there a difference between the Milano/75 and the GTV6 here? I've done it on a number of Milanos and never found it a big deal. I use the alu spacer from performatek, and it centers nicely if you angle one corner slightly - no need to touch the car except for drilling the two holes per side for the ball joints.
Jes

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 3:55 am

This is not a good pic . The whole I cored was also offset to the origional hole which made it tricky. Maybe the ball joints i used were different anyway check it out.

ar4me · Post by **ar4me** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:15 am

And on the Milano... I do recall having to grind the ear of one balljoint slightly in one case, but compared to what else you are doing, this was nothing. The spacer is probably the difference as it saves you from having to enlarge the castor hole in the chassis, etc...
Jes