ALFAGTV6.COM

[rallyalfa]

When I had it (and sold it to Martin), the car had a 4.56 final ratio and an AutoDelta-copy straight cut close ratio gear set. It had an uprated aluminium radiator, Holden alternator (to power those spot lights), under body protection, rose jointed De Dion frame, twin Facet fuel pumps etc. Only the fabricated in-board petrol tank was sold with the shell to our friend. It's an amazing roll cage designed by our friends in Victoria who built it - they had to cut the turret off to drop the cage in. If you only saw the rally roads it's been in, you would appreciate how good that cage is!! Good luck to MD with that car and congratulations to him for giving the shell a second life!! More photos available if you like....

[rallyalfa]

... and I agree, the roof-mounted vents work really well. We have had that working during really hot and humid (both day and night) in forestry stages and the vents pumped cool fresh air into the car either down the front of our helmets or into the back of our necks. Also, it kept pressurizing the cabin thereby insulating it from the thick dust outside. If you take a closer look at the tank photo, you will note we installed a perspex shield to cut off the rear of the car (the 'boot') from the cabin - this was done not only to insulate the cabin in the case of petrol spill but also to keep the dust out of the cabin. The 'boot' of the GTV wasn't really dust-proof and often after a rally, we would just hose it out with a garden hose!

[rallyalfa]

... and I agree, the roof-mounted vents work really well. We have had that working during really hot and humid (both day and night) in forestry stages and the vents pumped cool fresh air into the car either down the front of our helmets or into the back of our necks. Also, it kept pressurizing the cabin thereby insulating it from the thick dust outside. If you take a closer look at the tank photo, you will note we installed a perspex shield to cut off the rear of the car (the 'boot') from the cabin - this was done not only to insulate the cabin in the case of petrol spill but also to keep the dust out of the cabin. The 'boot' of the GTV wasn't really dust-proof and often after a rally, we would just hose it out with a garden hose!

[rallyalfa]

Here is the interior of the car - note the horizontal 'knee-capper' bar which was installed to add strength to the roll cage in the event of a crash whilst allowing for the removal of the heater under the dash as required by the rules. We cut this bar off as soon as we bought the car. Also the entire car was rewired and the new loom was insulated against vibration. The cabin had one large 'courtesy' light fitting which lit up the entire forest at night!! But it was good as it gets pretty dark out there. Ditto the 'boot' area and bonnet as well. Speaking of darkness, the two headlamps are actually spot lights and the 4 Super Oscars, when turned on, simply turned night into day thanks to the uprated Holden alternator. Having said that, this set up is no match for the IED rally lights used today ... that is if you have few grand to spend on lights! All lights in this car had a 'panic' button i.e. a secondary system to take over powering the lights in case the first system stopped working for some reason. Not fun driving in forests at night without lights.

[rallyalfa]

Other things we did to prepare this car for rally includes the Japanese scissor jack with a large rectangular base (this was modified to take the original jacking points from the outside and not the old Alfa system of sliding that prong into the jacking points - they got crushed shut pretty quickly after the hammering from rocks!), the rear gearbox bash plate (we were losing large chunks of aluminium webbing and casing off the gearbox after every rally without it), the rose jointed de dion and the underbody had lots of areas (especially corss members) which were skid-plated. After the first season of reallying we removed the bottom plate of the two 'chassis' rails in the engine compartment and welded on thicker plates with captive nuts welded on the inside for the sump guard as well - the old ones were simply worn out from the hammering it got.

[MD]

Well there you go sports fans,the Cab has motor sport blood in its veins going back longer than Ben Hur's charriot.

But alas it came to me as just a shell with a cage and fuel tank in it. The cage was the only reason I went with it because my original intention was to campaign a 75 shell. I have since modified this cage as you know to cater for a coil over suspension set up(see photo).Even though the rally work has given it a pounding, due to its excellent preparation, it has stood up to it well. All the rails are straight and all the doors close like new. Recent suspension alignments for track work has not come up with any geometry problems at all. A credit to Alfa.

Thanks rallyalfa for posting the car's background.

[GTV27]

welcome to the forum RallyAlfa (are you 'protecting' your identity?)

[rallyalfa]

Who? Me? Jason?

[MD]

GTV27

Why worry. We all know who he is.
I'll give you a tip.
If you live in South Australia and need a fast fence demolition, he's your man.

[kevin]

Hey md, impressive project , I did make note of engine bay triangulation , I will see what I can do . Thanks for posting all this orange stuff , it's helping me rebuild my race car(anaemic)powder) after it was gutted . When you giving away some pics on those outboard rear clampers.

[MD]

Yo Kevin, welcome back man.
The supension and brake photo details I wont be showing for a while although I have made verbal references to what they are. However, if you need an outboard rear brake modification, look up Barry's old posts, there is one there.

Otherwise here's an example of an outboard set up and Ithink it belongs to John? a guy no longer posting here? Just note that the bleeder valve is on the bottom so there has been a mix up installing the calipers left to right anyway the principles are there.

For the rear caliper you can use the front Brembos off the GTV6, 75, 90 etc but you need good rear bias control as the pad area is a bit large but you will get good life out of it.

BTW. With regard to the cross bracing in the engine bay, there are two important point.

1 The bar across the pedal box must be made removable otherwise you cannot take the pedal box out for maintenance.
2 The master cylinder must have remote resevoirs to allow the bar to cross it.

[Giuliettaevo2]

That calliper has two bleednipples...

I remember the original discussion about it being mounted upside down.

I think have a CAD drawing or something in my emailbox how to make the front brembo's fit the rear. If anyone is interested please mail me and i'll send it.

v6alfetta(strange-looking-a-above-the-2)hotmail.com

[C&S]

Nice work Emm Dee! You've been a busy boy.
They look a lot like FD RX7 (5x114.3) rims. New, modified hubs or PCD conversion spacers?

Damn that's good spotting Duk, and nice work MD.

I briefly considered doing this myself recently, but I might leave it for a little while. I considered it because I bought some used slicks off a bloke in Vic that runs a very fast GTV6. I picked up the slicks on his wheels, took them off and returned the wheels. The wheels were the same as you have here and I was amazed at how light they were, especially for a standard wheel, and what a very convenient size they are.

Unless I happen to come across some reasonably priced Alfa PCD wheels in the right size, this is defintely a mod I'll do before too long. Otherwise, anyone in Melbourne want to buy some 16/220 slicks?

[MD]

Nothing much to report other than I am trying to finish my hydraulic lines to hook up all the brake components. Like with everything ,the ever present foul ups from suppliers and service providers to deal with.

I am so sick and tired of this country's insistance on carrying on with imperial components and lack of latching totally onto metrication even though we have been metricated for something like 50 years. Causes no end of grief.(to me anyway)Stuff has a metric number but its just an imperial conversion. That's not metrication it is a bastardisation. AAAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!

Consequence ? Well, I now have to redo my hydraulics because I have discovered by accident that the supplier (read dickhead)provided me with a mixed set of tube nuts. Now I realise why some connections came together so much better than others !! So new flares, new bends, take it off, put it on, more effort for Sweet FA.

Ah, the joys ...still a set of mixed nuts. Mmm. Not too many can lay claim to a bag full of them. You gotta look on the bright side of life now and then..

[BradGTV]

Hi MD,
have done anything else to the car?
for your exhaust flange, did you have a CAD file for it?
cheer, Brad