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Another of cage finished. I have welded cage to body and roof at six points as well.

Got drivers window in today and finally got fiberglass doors right. The only problem with the fiberglass doors is the polycarbonate windows tend to pull the window frame straight which they are not. I used to have one pice windows but made it into two piece with stifner from origional which seperates main window from side window.

As mentioned earlier I have made new engine mounts to make the engine sit straight in the body. I got an empty block put my new trial mounts on. I them made two sighters like a rifle or in building (boning rod) which i attached to block through the center. I removed prop and made sure gearbox was mounted in its correct position. I put luminoous paint on center of yoke on box with a torch under neath it. I then made a whole in center of front valence with which i could sight right through to gearbox. Apart from lining it up I also determinined what angle the engine sits in the engine bay.
This probably all sounds confusing but it did work. ps i did try a laser at the end to double check
I have also completed an engine stay along with realining bell housing rubber bush and center bearing mount.
The IMSA 75 bellhousing mounts has given me some ideas but I think that was mainly done to allow one piece prop out.

Some good lateral thinking Kevin.

It's good start.

Now the question remains, how do you make sure the transaxle input shaft is in the same horizontal and vertical plane front and rear?
When is the standard two piece shaft perfectly straight between these two points? ie crankshaft centre and clutch input shaft centre.

Why did Alfa misalign it to begin with?

I talked to Beninca many years ago and he was willing to make me a fixture with a laser pointer to align the engine and the transaxle.

Kevin,

Can you tell us the measurement of the amount needed to adjust the engine mounts after you found the correct alignment?

Md, i made a parralell line above the car which i took to the back before i started . This line i reference togearbox and engine. In one of pics ypu can see 200mm written radiator cradle. I will find pics. What i am making is a rotating cam adjuster for gearbox rear mount. Nothing new our race cars have them on the late 70 s alfetta. It was an autodelta part.
Z if you take two old mounts of you can see how far out they are. I will post some pics and measurements

You only need a laser and some way to fasten it to the flywheels, then when you spin them it will draw a circle that is concentric with the crank/clutch shaft.
Maybe they were aiming to use regular cardan joints and had to throw in Guibos as a fix after the floorpan tooling was done? Welcome to the world of technically terrible decisions in the name of money...

Kevin,

The cam idea of the rear tranny mount is good for vertical alignments. That still leaves you with the horizontal one. Mats idea is great and perhaps it could be simplified by using the engine flywheel as he said and fixing a large test diameter plate to the clutch input shaft yoke facing the engine flywheel. You could then project the laser onto this plate for the rotation test as he says instead of the clutch flywheel keeping the transmission in one piece during the testing.

I had to drop the rear position of the tranny mount 30mm once and remake the mount area to get the correct vertical alignment. Ridiculous !

So now, how do we get that two piece shaft and its centre mount straight to finish the alignment?

Not sure I would like to drop the rear of the gearbox 30mm...
Both driveshaft angles and the loss of fins on the std height box on my cars tell me not to.

Md, mats is was pretty easy to get the engine horizontal. As from pic i had two sighting plates attached to the block. An aluminium one on journal one and a red one on journal four. If you line up these two and while sighting on the centre of gearbox you can get the engine vertical. But at same time using a square on a gearbox you can see if the line from engine is square to the yoke. Its not that difficult. Probably more difficult to explain. Rear of gear box then can be adjusted if neccesary. My first priority was to get engine straight to protect prop .
All the chassis pickup points are perfect . The engine is off 15 degress . The bellhousing bush is offsett 10mm.
In the end off the day i need a colotti gearbox. So will mail them and get a scary quote .

Mats, it's a long story but it fixed the problem. I don't advocate it as a solution to anyone.

Zamani, a pic of the mounts. There is still a left and a right mount. The offset across the mount is 8mm and the and angle is still the same as the original mounts. The new lenght of the is the average of the original two mounts.

My pedal box using another clutch pedal for the brake pedal. Using a 21mm master which works for my large calipers.

Even rebuilding my rims. The siliconing had to be redone.

Has any one removed the engine bell housing mount while engine is in car ? I thought it would be simple as my engine is still loose , prop is out and nothing to interfere when i tilt the engine. Bottom line is I cant get it sufficeint angle even pulling the engine forward off the front mounts then tilting it.
Lucky my engine hoist is directly above car so will pull engine out and then use the alfa tool to presss it out.
Just thought i would see if any one has done this with engine in. Only other way is to cut the centre of mount out then heat the bell housing and hopefullly it falls out without having to use the alfa tool.