Good news is clutch lasted all the heats at saturdays racing. Posted some very fast lap times in the first heat on but got serious brain fade in the second. Maybe was trying to hard including another huge spin at 150kmh. Some one dropped anti freeze in the sweep and I locked up one wheel just before entry which spun me into the apex. Third fastest in a 23 car field. Still a 105 series gtv 2.0l and a 116 series gtv 2.0l ahead by 1 sec. In perspective these are full out race cars while I still drive to the track and most times back home. I can gain at least eight car lenghts on these cars on the straights but when it come into the very tight stuff, and traffic they are no where to be seen. On the scales im 300kg more which is huge but I have 140kw on the wheels while they have +- 100kw. I keep threatening to lighten up car but some thing else always come up like clutch etc so I never get to remove glass , electric windows ,etc.
Mats here is a car similiar to yours. The roll cage was done from searching this forum on the roll cage section. The front bracing was done if in future coil overs were going to be used only. At the moment it has 28mm torsion bars with heavy front antiroll bars. Got negative rear camber, 300mm front discs, brembo calipers. This car is exceptional. Just needs a donut cage. Check out pics
Nice post Kev.
I do not beleive you can remove 300kg form a "budget" race car with a proper roll cage in it. Maybe half that is possible.
Finally someone has got the front suspension braced like I have been saying for years that it should be done. I have this set up in principle but cannot use it as it fouls the TS intakes and I haven't found a way round it so far.
..a tidy and minimalist approach.Great.
I do not beleive you can remove 300kg form a "budget" race car with a proper roll cage in it. Maybe half that is possible.
Finally someone has got the front suspension braced like I have been saying for years that it should be done. I have this set up in principle but cannot use it as it fouls the TS intakes and I haven't found a way round it so far.
..a tidy and minimalist approach.Great.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
MD. I can maybe remove 50kg but thats it. Smaller starter,lighter alternator, remove brake booster, alm radiator,smaller battery, All glass except front windscreen. Cant do much more than that.
Fedezel, I have been using a coupling cage which i have been monitoring. Its amazing how much the donot twists as seen by the marks on the sides but so far its still intact and survived a lot of races. I would never use CV joint personally as there is no give and ends up braking cranks.(if there is zero rubber in the prop) There needs to be some flex. I got the coupling cage from the french racing team which I copied. It does not alow the donut to expand and limits its distortion. Just my views but I figured the French cant be wrong a sthey have been using this cage for years.(scuderiadelbiscone).
Find a pic of that cage
Fedezel, I have been using a coupling cage which i have been monitoring. Its amazing how much the donot twists as seen by the marks on the sides but so far its still intact and survived a lot of races. I would never use CV joint personally as there is no give and ends up braking cranks.(if there is zero rubber in the prop) There needs to be some flex. I got the coupling cage from the french racing team which I copied. It does not alow the donut to expand and limits its distortion. Just my views but I figured the French cant be wrong a sthey have been using this cage for years.(scuderiadelbiscone).
Find a pic of that cage
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Mats, the problems I have seen is where a CV is used and it breaks it always results in crank breaking. Not crank breaking as a result of using cv(definately not good english here).
Mats, good question why do we need any rubber in prop(for racing). Surely some of the shock must be taken up on the drive train with the movemnt of gearbox under braking(longitudanal), changing gears(rotational).
Mabybe the only GTV I have seen with solid prop(cv and unversals) that always broke was because the motor was 190kw on wheels-3.7L which was to strong for that set up in extreme racing conditions.
Mats, good question why do we need any rubber in prop(for racing). Surely some of the shock must be taken up on the drive train with the movemnt of gearbox under braking(longitudanal), changing gears(rotational).
Mabybe the only GTV I have seen with solid prop(cv and unversals) that always broke was because the motor was 190kw on wheels-3.7L which was to strong for that set up in extreme racing conditions.
Nice job on the donut cage Kevin.
My race car presently has three universal joints and no rubber couplings. Generally the balance is better than with rubber couplings however this combo has an annoying minor failing. It causes a "hammering" sound in the drive train during idle and up to 15-1600 rpm. After that the noise disappears. This is due to the cummulative impacts in the entire driveline moving in response to the engine turning over.. At first I thought there was something loose but after talking to two other owners with similar set ups, it appears that the problem is the same. The other cars use a variation of mine such a 2 UJ + 1 CV. Sometimes the CV is behind the crankshaft and sometimes it is in the middle.
You can readily see why the Alfa factory decided to use rubber couplings because they had no choice !! They would never have sold ANY cars if they made that much transmission noise.
In the past I have read a lot of boloney about never using univesral joints because they resulted in vibration but that is just rubbish. The real problem for street cars is the idle noise. For racing purposes, you dont seem to spend too much time at idle that I seem to recall, heheee.
None of the cars using UJ's etc. have ever broken any cranks here. They dont of course make anywhere near 190Kw either. Mine has broken the flywheel bolts but that is for a different reason. The bolts bottomed out in the crank and didn't make sufficient tension on the flywheel.
Having said all that, I will experiment to try and remove the nosie nuisance by adding a better quality single donut just behind the front flywheel as part of the flywheel mount repairs. This will require some serious mods to the mounting arrangment for it. I am hoping that it will dampen the noise out and provide a little cushening to gear changes which wont hurt at all.
Fedezyl. That's not an adaptor for a CV joint. Its a metal can placed around the rubber coupling and a pinch mount for a V6 driveshaft. The 2 liter GTV's dont have this pinch mount.
My race car presently has three universal joints and no rubber couplings. Generally the balance is better than with rubber couplings however this combo has an annoying minor failing. It causes a "hammering" sound in the drive train during idle and up to 15-1600 rpm. After that the noise disappears. This is due to the cummulative impacts in the entire driveline moving in response to the engine turning over.. At first I thought there was something loose but after talking to two other owners with similar set ups, it appears that the problem is the same. The other cars use a variation of mine such a 2 UJ + 1 CV. Sometimes the CV is behind the crankshaft and sometimes it is in the middle.
You can readily see why the Alfa factory decided to use rubber couplings because they had no choice !! They would never have sold ANY cars if they made that much transmission noise.
In the past I have read a lot of boloney about never using univesral joints because they resulted in vibration but that is just rubbish. The real problem for street cars is the idle noise. For racing purposes, you dont seem to spend too much time at idle that I seem to recall, heheee.
None of the cars using UJ's etc. have ever broken any cranks here. They dont of course make anywhere near 190Kw either. Mine has broken the flywheel bolts but that is for a different reason. The bolts bottomed out in the crank and didn't make sufficient tension on the flywheel.
Having said all that, I will experiment to try and remove the nosie nuisance by adding a better quality single donut just behind the front flywheel as part of the flywheel mount repairs. This will require some serious mods to the mounting arrangment for it. I am hoping that it will dampen the noise out and provide a little cushening to gear changes which wont hurt at all.
Fedezyl. That's not an adaptor for a CV joint. Its a metal can placed around the rubber coupling and a pinch mount for a V6 driveshaft. The 2 liter GTV's dont have this pinch mount.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Thanks for the info, we don't have any 75 nor GtV6's over here, hence my difficulty recognizing the pinch mount. Do you have any pictures of your CV and UJ setup by any chance that you might like to share with us?MD wrote:Nice job on the donut cage Kevin.
My race car presently has three universal joints and no rubber couplings. Generally the balance is better than with rubber couplings however this combo has an annoying minor failing. It causes a "hammering" sound in the drive train during idle and up to 15-1600 rpm. After that the noise disappears. This is due to the cummulative impacts in the entire driveline moving in response to the engine turning over.. At first I thought there was something loose but after talking to two other owners with similar set ups, it appears that the problem is the same. The other cars use a variation of mine such a 2 UJ + 1 CV. Sometimes the CV is behind the crankshaft and sometimes it is in the middle.
You can readily see why the Alfa factory decided to use rubber couplings because they had no choice !! They would never have sold ANY cars if they made that much transmission noise.
In the past I have read a lot of boloney about never using univesral joints because they resulted in vibration but that is just rubbish. The real problem for street cars is the idle noise. For racing purposes, you dont seem to spend too much time at idle that I seem to recall, heheee.
None of the cars using UJ's etc. have ever broken any cranks here. They dont of course make anywhere near 190Kw either. Mine has broken the flywheel bolts but that is for a different reason. The bolts bottomed out in the crank and didn't make sufficient tension on the flywheel.
Having said all that, I will experiment to try and remove the nosie nuisance by adding a better quality single donut just behind the front flywheel as part of the flywheel mount repairs. This will require some serious mods to the mounting arrangment for it. I am hoping that it will dampen the noise out and provide a little cushening to gear changes which wont hurt at all.
Fedezyl. That's not an adaptor for a CV joint. Its a metal can placed around the rubber coupling and a pinch mount for a V6 driveshaft. The 2 liter GTV's dont have this pinch mount.
I'll have to adapt a 75 TS shaft for my conversion and I thought I might as well make for a CV joint setup for the driveshaft...
