Put my Milano on scales this weekend...
I am pleasantly surprised. This is a USA 3.0l Milano with 1/2 tank of gas, stripped interior and trunk (including sun roof), spare tire in trunk still, no driver, 1 Kirkey aluminum racing seat, with P/S, no A/C, and no cage (yet). Here are the results:
Total weight, 2632
LF 747 LR 774
LR 511 RR 600
I am swapping out the ABS and stock clutch master for 3 wilwood master cylinders. This will lose a bit more weight from the front. I am also moving the battery to behind the passenger's seat, so that will transfer some weight to the rear. The P/S will stay because I want to still be able to add caster if needed, and I may add a steering quickener which will make it too difficult to turn with out P/S. I'll probably use a smaller P/S pump though.
Losts of plans still. I'll update you guys next time I get a chance to scale it again.
Steve
Total weight, 2632
LF 747 LR 774
LR 511 RR 600
I am swapping out the ABS and stock clutch master for 3 wilwood master cylinders. This will lose a bit more weight from the front. I am also moving the battery to behind the passenger's seat, so that will transfer some weight to the rear. The P/S will stay because I want to still be able to add caster if needed, and I may add a steering quickener which will make it too difficult to turn with out P/S. I'll probably use a smaller P/S pump though.
Losts of plans still. I'll update you guys next time I get a chance to scale it again.
Steve
You're lucky as it has more weight on the right side. The driver will compensate nicely.
These values also show the BS about 50/50 balance. The fact is that it is very difficult to achieve even close without adding weight in the rear (or lightening front only).
BTW, In my case it was better moving the battery all the way to the trunk for best performance.
These values also show the BS about 50/50 balance. The fact is that it is very difficult to achieve even close without adding weight in the rear (or lightening front only).
BTW, In my case it was better moving the battery all the way to the trunk for best performance.
Right!! But eating (intake) is one thing, if you could eliminate...exhaust before a race, you would improve f/r weight ratio even more, maybe a...strategically placed cork would help, heheh? (probably not recommended for 24hr events, or not allowed because it may result in sudden afterburner effect-unfair competition!)
Jim K.
Jim K.
the 50/50 weight distribution is not actually b/s! you didnt think about the wheel he took out, or the seats, or other miscellanious shit in the rear of the car,antenna, jack,and of course 1/2 tank of gas, well over a hundred pounds worth of shit, making the car very close to 50/50. the claim was for a stock vehicle(nothing removed) with a full tank of petrol, do the math, none of the weight removed was from the front of the car except the A/C . just a little food for thought on the weight issue.
Hey wasnt the stock weight a little over 3000 lbs? how did you manage to pull 400+ lbs out of the car?
Hey wasnt the stock weight a little over 3000 lbs? how did you manage to pull 400+ lbs out of the car?
I was quite surprised too. I was standing there looking at the car with my race car buddy (his scales), and he was not surprised at all.
Here's basically what he figured:
Carpet: -40
Underlayment: -40
Sunroof & headliner: -40
Front seats: -80 (40 each, I weighed them)
Add one Kirkey seat: +20
A/C: -20
Rear seat: -15
Parcel shelf trim, speakers, C pillar trim, 3rd brake light: -15
Center console and radio & trim: -10
Trunk trim: -20
1/2 tank gas: -50
Thats 310. Don't know where the extra 50lbs came from, but I don't know what it weighed to start with either.
I'm going to work on the front more. I might get rid of the dash completely. The hood will be just the skin. Windshield will be lexan as will all side windows. Sure would love some fiberglass fenders and euro bumpers.
I'll post next time I scale it.
Steve
Here's basically what he figured:
Carpet: -40
Underlayment: -40
Sunroof & headliner: -40
Front seats: -80 (40 each, I weighed them)
Add one Kirkey seat: +20
A/C: -20
Rear seat: -15
Parcel shelf trim, speakers, C pillar trim, 3rd brake light: -15
Center console and radio & trim: -10
Trunk trim: -20
1/2 tank gas: -50
Thats 310. Don't know where the extra 50lbs came from, but I don't know what it weighed to start with either.
I'm going to work on the front more. I might get rid of the dash completely. The hood will be just the skin. Windshield will be lexan as will all side windows. Sure would love some fiberglass fenders and euro bumpers.
I'll post next time I scale it.
Steve
You're adding a Laxan windsheld but maybe fibreglass bumpers?
I'd say you should think about your priorities, us bumpers are a MAJOR weigh handicap.
It's not even legal to run plastic windscreen here and from experience you might wanna think about how it will affect your vision since any bulging will distort the view.
I'd say you should think about your priorities, us bumpers are a MAJOR weigh handicap.
It's not even legal to run plastic windscreen here and from experience you might wanna think about how it will affect your vision since any bulging will distort the view.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
I have looked through many Lexan windscreens and found no distortion (not enough to notice anyway). In fact, the brand new Ferrari 430 Challenge car come from Ferrari with all lexan windows. I noticed no distortion when I sat behind the wheel. Lexan is allowed here in the US in all sanctioning bodies that I know of (depends on your class). There are specific thicknesses required though.
A new glass windshield (which I need) costs $150. I can buy, cut and install my own Lexan one for $100. It's stronger and lighter than glass, and won't crack with a little rock chip. Local Alfa club won't let car run with cracked windshields. Sounds like a no-brainer to me.
I'd love some Euro bumpers. Someone want to find some and ship them to me? I can't just call up some foreign auto salvage yards since I don't speek anything but English and don't even know where to call. Plus, it'll be about $300+ for shipping.
Do you have any other suggestions for me to lose some weight?
Steve
A new glass windshield (which I need) costs $150. I can buy, cut and install my own Lexan one for $100. It's stronger and lighter than glass, and won't crack with a little rock chip. Local Alfa club won't let car run with cracked windshields. Sounds like a no-brainer to me.
I'd love some Euro bumpers. Someone want to find some and ship them to me? I can't just call up some foreign auto salvage yards since I don't speek anything but English and don't even know where to call. Plus, it'll be about $300+ for shipping.
Do you have any other suggestions for me to lose some weight?
Steve
I know about Polycarbonate (Lexan) and I have that on my GTV (except windshield) and another set standing around for a 75. Great stuff but not race legal here for windscreens except Rallycross, I imagine the constant spray of gravel from other cars would destroy a glass one before turn 2.
Anyway, my best advice is:
Remove everything fron the shell, lighten the hell out of the shell by removing everything you don't actually need (i.e. sound dampening stuff and small brackets and such) and then add everything back that you really need for driving fast and throw everything else on a big fire so you don't add them back later.
I removed 5 Kg alone on small brackets and stuff, loads more on the spare wheel well and sound-/rustproofing under the car and inside.
coil-overs up front and all new suspension parts made out of tubes instead of cast iron.
Body panels out of plastic, trunklid and hood (and in your case bumpers) are the biggest culprits.
There are loads of stuff to do but before you even start you should get a car without sunroof. Sunroofs are forged in hell from absolute evil.
Oh, and be sure to add a rollcage.
Anyway, my best advice is:
Remove everything fron the shell, lighten the hell out of the shell by removing everything you don't actually need (i.e. sound dampening stuff and small brackets and such) and then add everything back that you really need for driving fast and throw everything else on a big fire so you don't add them back later.
I removed 5 Kg alone on small brackets and stuff, loads more on the spare wheel well and sound-/rustproofing under the car and inside.
coil-overs up front and all new suspension parts made out of tubes instead of cast iron.
Body panels out of plastic, trunklid and hood (and in your case bumpers) are the biggest culprits.
There are loads of stuff to do but before you even start you should get a car without sunroof. Sunroofs are forged in hell from absolute evil.
Oh, and be sure to add a rollcage.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Ya, I set myself up for that onear4me wrote: Eat less, exercise more Sorry couldn't help it.
Jes
All jokes aside, how many of us acually know someone sweating every ounce of weight they can take out of their car while still being 20+ lbs overweight themselves? I'm a bit guilty myself, but then again, I've lost 25lbs since the New Year. Figured if my car is going on a diet, then I am too.
You know, I hadn't thought about all the little brackets. I'll do that.Mats wrote:Anyway, my best advice is:
Remove everything fron the shell, lighten the hell out of the shell by removing everything you don't actually need (i.e. sound dampening stuff and small brackets and such) and then add everything back that you really need for driving fast and throw everything else on a big fire so you don't add them back later.
I removed 5 Kg alone on small brackets and stuff, loads more on the spare wheel well and sound-/rustproofing under the car and inside.
coil-overs up front and all new suspension parts made out of tubes instead of cast iron.
Body panels out of plastic, trunklid and hood (and in your case bumpers) are the biggest culprits.
There are loads of stuff to do but before you even start you should get a car without sunroof. Sunroofs are forged in hell from absolute evil.
Oh, and be sure to add a rollcage.
I have a piece of aluminum already to go in when I cut the spare wheel well out. Already bought some hood and trunk pins so I can remove the latches and supports on each piece.
I have made some custom upper control arms out of tube that have a larger ID so I can run coil overs with out having to deal with the small hole in the stock ones. (pics when I'm done with them)
My Verde came with a sunroof. Really hard to find them here in the States with out sunroof. But, I already removed it and riveted a sheet of aluminum in its place.
I cut the power motor and door lock motors out of my doors. Now all that is there is the window sliders and a seat belt to hold the window up when I want it up.
I spent a couple hours with a chisel and hammer last Saturday chipping out that asphault sound deadening from the floor. Didn't weigh it, but the vacuum was really heavy when I emptied it. (maybe up to 20 lbs)
I'd really like to get into carbon fiber. Seems I hardly have time to do the stuff I know, let alone learn something new.
I have a JD2 1.5" tubing bender and a cage it in the plans. The dash and all will be stripped and only what is needed is going back in.
That race car buddy of mine took 40lbs (18kg) out of a GT1 car by cutting off all of the extra threads from all of the bolts on the car. He had to mark every bolt, remove it, cut it off, run it through a die and reinstall it. That's a lot of work for 40lbs, but for competition, it's worth it. I'm removing this weight to be faster and easier on tires and brakes. That will end up saving me money.
I'll take pics when I get a chance.
Steve
P.S. Seriously, if anyone knows where and how much I can get some Euro 75 bumpers, let me know.