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Reale · Post by **Reale** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:14 am

OK, I have moved this thread over here-
Perhaps we can all relate what we've done to lose weight on our cars.
Also, does your sanctioning body weigh the car WITH DRIVER, or not?
For EP SCCA, we have to be 2300 or greater, with driver.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:37 am

Without driver here.

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 8:52 am

i believe that micke has a full coil over setup w/ even some lighter upper a arms... micke? what about the early model cars vs late idea i shot out there? allen, if you have an early model car with the removable cross memberhave you seen that al. piece that was posted somewhere on here w/ adjustable ride height?
i am all over this light idea.... mats made me a believer a long time ago- seriously (why else would dhi have asked al driveshaft?)
vittorio

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:37 pm

Mine is a -78 and it can be made really light.

Today I received the uniballs for the lower A arms. This will make the front even lighter.

I still have some good placed to drop some weight. Windshield will gain me 5 kg. Generator a couple. Lighter crank ~4kg. One arm wiper 2-3 kg.

I alrady have a very light radiator and the fan is trashed a long time ago. Inner lights are gone and the hood weighs about 3 kg (no blingy carbon though). The 4 pot wilwods with 300 mm disks weigh almost exactly the same as the flimsy OE stuff. And losing the booster gained me some weight as did the heater unit.

I didn't check the weight of the cage but it isn't light for sure.

Minimum weight W/O driver 918 kg.

Reale · Post by **Reale** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:07 am

I see, my weight is with driver-so there is 75kg of the difference right there!
I cannot go to coil-over setup. Does anyone have experience with the gun-drilled torsion bars, and does anyone have info about weight/stiffness differences?
I use 33mm solid bars (86 model car, so "short" bars). I was considering having a hollow set made, but am reluctant to lose stiffness (ahem.).

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 4:39 am

Sorry, I don't know what's available. I made a simple calculation for you anyway.

If we start with the 33 mm solid railroad pieces and consider the stiffness OK then:
Drilling a 10 mm hole through them would reduce 1% stiffness!
Making the hole 15 mm would reduce 4 % stiffness.
Making new bars of 34 mm outer dia and 20 mm inner the stiffness would drop 1%
Making 36 mm tubes with 26.5 mm inner dia would give the same stiffness you have now.

I'm sure you can calculate the weights yourself....

Reale · Post by **Reale** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 3:55 pm

Interesting, thanks for the math, it gives me something to mess with!
To make bars thicker than 33mm will require some (more) work under the car with a hammer.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:54 am

I had a look at your web page. Two things cought my eye.

1) are you doing off road driving? or did I see wrong? Oil pan protection in racing?

2) The roll cage looks unusual. No good view of it though. Heavy?

Reale · Post by **Reale** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:12 am

There are a couple of tracks in the region with pretty bad drop-offs if you "run out of track," and I had actually bottomed out the pan on them in the past-so I tried that pan guard, but it did not help much. But I got rid of that thing a while ago when I learned to keep the car on the track.
WRT the cage, when I look at something on the car I automatically relegate it into one of two categories: can lighten safely, and cannot lighten safely. The cage is one of these.
If I was to do it all over, I would do it differently knowing what I know now, but probably not much.
The big thing is the actual tubing. In my original race class the car had a higher minimum weight, so I had to go up one grade in tubing thickness. I could legally cut out the whole cage and put a lighter one in-I could even go with chrome-moly. However, this is right below lighter paint on the list, due to the sheer impracticality. But I know what you mean, messing with the cage would be tempting.

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:09 pm

I'll borrow this thread for something related.

Two things I have in mind and wonder if anybody has experience about them:

1) move the engine rearwards. How much can be done before the steering or something comes in the way (4-banger). I'll check it out myself when I swap the engine but a rough estimate for starters would be nice. (I'll consider modifying the sump to get the engine down as well)

2) Anybody moved the front wheels forward? I'll try it anyway. Rules say there's a tolerance of +/- 1.5% if I remember correctly. About 2 cm should be easily doable.

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:44 pm

1) move the engine rearwards. How much can be done before the steering or something comes in the way (4-banger).

Put the engine back in last weekend

Only 2 a 3 cm looks doable without serious body work.

2) Anybody moved the front wheels forward? I'll try it anyway. Rules say there's a tolerance of +/- 1.5% if I remember correctly. About 2 cm should be easily doable

I've seen this here in Holland with the Guilia's (105) in the trofeo and its also about 2 cm they move the wheels forward. Also seen a 75 on which they moved the backside wheels rearward to increase wheelbase. (rotated the bearing housing with regard to the dion, standard points forward)

Micke · Post by **Micke** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:26 am

Put the engine back in last weekend

Congrats! So, you'll come/go to the ring with the TS then?!?!

Moving the engine only 30 mm isn't worth the effort. Only reduces the load on the front wheels by 2 kg.

Moving the wheels by 2 cm would reduce the FW load by 4 kg in my case. As it would increase wheelbase at the same time it is worth a try (with my new A-arms I can move the wheels by a couple of cm)

Maurizio · Post by **Maurizio** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:42 am

Congrats! So, you'll come/go to the ring with the TS then?!?!

Even better, if some small stuff to get the thing street legal again, is done: The upcoming weekend will be shake down on the ring

Ps.Wonder if I still know my way around there, been a year. Have done some slow laps last year with my spider and the 33, thats all.

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Mon May 22, 2006 10:13 am

I am sending my gtv6 for paint in a few weeks. I purchased an autopower 6 pt cage last year and have not installed it The roll cage will be welded in next week.

Sporttunergtv6 · Post by **Sporttunergtv6** » Mon May 22, 2006 10:29 am

Brain Fart...
I have looked at many many pictures of cages and this one seems to simply be an imperfect starting point but I have some ideas for improvement and so does the engineer who will be welding it up.
My question is should i start cutting stuff out, like the trunk floor and the door insides ? Also I remember seeing a fellow member, Fortis, posting a linnk to his car: http://www.fortismotorsport.com/GalleryRollCage.htm and i was wondering what the consensus was on cutting out the rear wall by the gas tank.
Thanks,
Vittorio

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