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smashigcraft
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Chassis bonding - sound proofing- seam welding

Post by smashigcraft »

Hi
I'm removing the sound deadening rubber from the floor pan with dry ice and wondering whether to continue around the areas where the rubber bonding has been injected around the panel seems near the rear wheel arches (inside) and transmission tunnel. Does this material serve any purpose? Could I seam weld there afterwards for any benefit? Hope someone has an idea on this. thanks
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Mats
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Post by Mats »

Rust!

That's what the next owner would scream if you remove it. :?
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mjr
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Post by mjr »

mats has it for you. if you remove it from the inside, you must inhibit all of the seams with acf50 or similar (every 6 months!), or kiss good bye to the car in 5 years time.
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Dennis
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Post by Dennis »

Guys! We're talking racecars here.......

Remove the stuff and seamweld the panels. Make sure you remove all of it before welding, because the fumes coming of it when on fire are very toxic.
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Mats
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Post by Mats »

Yes, true.

But I still think you need to add something back after seam welding, otherwise it will still rust and the car will deteriorate very fast.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-

GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
smashigcraft
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Post by smashigcraft »

Rust??? What's that? Fortunately I don't have to worry about such things in Aus. Thanks for the advice. I'll just remove the sections at the rear and treat with POR 15. I'll be able to keep an I on it anyway as the'll be no insulation or carpet covering when I'm finished with the race prep. Thanks again
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Alfettish
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Post by Alfettish »

Rust will occur anywhere. I've got rusty cars in Canberra (relatively dry area of the country).
smashigcraft
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Post by smashigcraft »

Who would have believed Hobart is drier (2nd driest capital in Aus actually) I must be very lucky.
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Alfettish
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Post by Alfettish »

wow. What's the driest? Perth?
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Post by la_strega_nera »

Adelaide.
Still plenty o rust there.
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Rookie ROX
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Post by Rookie ROX »

I simply used a heat gun, it allowed me to get most of the deadening off around those areas whilst still keeping the rubber in. Then just a rag with some turps cleaned off all the remaining residue nicely.

However how has the dry ice gone? I was going to use that method but couldn't be bothered driving down to the local Air Liquide so whipped out the heat gun instead.

ROCK ON
R~R
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sh0rtlife
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Post by sh0rtlife »

i HATE that rubber crap.....on "most" american cars ive found that most rust starts UNDER that crap and works its way out
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Mats
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Post by Mats »

smashigcraft wrote:Rust??? What's that? Fortunately I don't have to worry about such things in Aus. Thanks for the advice. I'll just remove the sections at the rear and treat with POR 15. I'll be able to keep an I on it anyway as the'll be no insulation or carpet covering when I'm finished with the race prep. Thanks again
Guess you never wash your cars either? Paint will be stripped by pick-up stones/gravel on the road/track.
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-

GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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