ALFAGTV6.COM

CV = Constant Velocity. You can have a greater angle in the joint without it creating a pulsating rotation. They will also have a much lower plunge force then the slip yoke in a cardan joint, does not matter a lot in our case but it can create severe imbalance issues in an installation where the parts move around a lot.

Still getting work done to the new shaft setup. Seems to be taking an eternity.

Thanks for the answer Mats, i've been looking for the forum for a few days and I finally realized that it moved a little bit!
Talking to my mechanic who has seen this setup before he told me that he preferred the CV joint arrangement instead of a slip joint per the same reasons as Mats pointed out.

Thanks for the help

How much does a gutted Alfetta weigh? Ball park figure, as I know there are multitudes of differences. Jes' weight reduction on his Milano seems to be very extensive, yet he seems to be stuck around 2400lbs. How about the race Alfettas? I'm wondering if it is worthwhile to make a racer out of my v6 Milano, or to just find a beat up Alfetta GT and go that route?

grant wrote:How much does a gutted Alfetta weigh? Ball park figure, as I know there are multitudes of differences. Jes' weight reduction on his Milano seems to be very extensive, yet he seems to be stuck around 2400lbs. How about the race Alfettas? I'm wondering if it is worthwhile to make a racer out of my v6 Milano, or to just find a beat up Alfetta GT and go that route?

You mean a bare unibody? 250-300Kg maybe...

Rough guestimation of course.

I actually mean an Alfetta GT in race trim...for instance, how much does your car weigh?

Weight in race trim depends on rules.
My is 2.0 GTV is at minimum allowed 920 kg and it would be fairly easy dropping it still 10-40 kg.
Full cage, one seat, 16" tires, big battery, ~20 kg of flat underbody.

The Brick weighs 920kg but as you know it's a sedan. The biggest weight component that keeps the weight up is a fully compliant CAMS spec steel roll cage. If you used lighter materials to build the cage, it could be less. It doesn't use any composite substitue materials.

I've been told there is no weight penalty in a 116 sedan versus a coupe (given similar weight saving techniques) - which seems about right if the brick is 920kg - but don't have any actual facts to support this .

Also, it seems that a 75 can be built to weigh very little - twinsparks can be built to around the 1000kg mark without a whole lot of effort. This makes my poor old GTV6 look like a lardarse at 1220kg!

A 75 could be a nicer car to drive/build than a coupe also - better seating position and view, longer wheelbase, easier to install cage, lots of glass than can fairly easily become perspex. If you've already got one, that would seem to be a smart place to start a racer project.

Grant,
Keep in mind that quite a bit of stuff is heavier on the V6 Milano compared to 4 cyl Alfetta. Engine is what?, another 160 lbs. Then you also have heavier drive train components. The best starting point may be an early 75 carb. I had a 2.0 carb (not TS) years ago in Europe, and it had the 4-lug hubs like the Alfetta. I think Colin's full race GTV6 weighs about the same as my race Milano, although he has much more extensive roll cage and chassis reinforcement - more glass replaced with Lexan, more metal cut out, no heavy ABS components, my non-stock fuel setup is somewhat heavy ... Make whatever is more economical for you and have fun.
BTW, I weighed Roxanne just a few weeks ago. Exact same weight of 2467 lbs (1119 kgs) fully wet, but better weight distribution (which can be further improved with the adjusters on the springs).
Jes

The starting point doesnt' make much difference IMHO.
The weight of a stripped bodyshell Alfetta - Giulietta - GT - GTV - 90 - 75 cannot be far off each other. Almost every part is also interchangeable which evens up any weight differences.
It's simply a matter of taste and what's available.

A small favour guys.

If you have a generic topic you want to discuss regarding racing, could I suggest you raise it within an existing heading or create your own if necessary.

Otherwise this topic about the Brick is going to look very pear shape soon.

I am the first to admit I do this accidentally myself so please, this is not aimed at anyone specifically, it's just a little prompt.

Thanks, MD

Hi MD, it's been a while...any more updates on your car and its' driveline?

Yes I agree..

We had some fun last week end at Morgan Park even if we only used 3 gears most of the time..
No sooner did we start testing, I discovered we had some wierd noise with the clutch. At about this time I had had just about enough of the mechanical hoodoos so we made a decision to drive it to destruction and find out what is the weak link. Mainly 'cause nobody could make a real determination as to what the noise actually was even though we all had a fairly good idea but in the end all the ideas were wrong.

Well to its credit, the Brick went all week end with the mystery noise getting louder with every round and finally on virtually the final round, we lost drive as if to say, what you bastards want blood ?

The positives.

The conversion of the front donut to BMW PCD is a total success and has eliminated all the hammering up and down the shaft at idle. I feel that a small modification to the rear coupling to fit a similar type will isolated the transmission chatter as well leaving just a uni. in the middle. These couplings are nothing like the Alfa rubbish and can and do break crankshafts before they break themselves.

The negatives

We broke a LHS CV joint on the LHS axle even though both were fully reconditioned. Doesn't say much for replacement part quality ! We also broke the clutch front housing which turned out to be the source of the noise. It must have had a hairline fracture in the casing or a casting flaw but not evident to the naked eye on assembly. I mean these things usually break when you apply huge amounts of horsepower for which they are not rated for. I would like to say that this is the case but who would believe it ? We are getting the repalcements x-rayed to sort out his nonsense.

So we are back in repair mode and making the stuff that breaks tougher and the bank balance smaller. Getting closer all the time...never say die !!

Vibrations can also cause the clutchhousing to fracture... So misalignement or unbalance of the two-piece-shaft ( forgot the word for it.. ) may have something to do with it.

Any good pics on the BMW parts?