Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
I figured if i sold evey car in the household i would still be short so thats just a dream .
Edited : Price from Hewland is 27500 pounds, so i would double that for import duty to Sunny SA and then multiply by 10 for exchange rate.
Edited : Price from Hewland is 27500 pounds, so i would double that for import duty to Sunny SA and then multiply by 10 for exchange rate.
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Pics of my rear brake set up which fit into !5 inch rims.
Process :
1) make bell and disc
2) work out distance for bracket A to be welded to dedion which was 23mmaway from disc
3) made 23mm spacers then G clamped a plateA which was profiled to the shape of dedion
4)Welded plateA with "special" rods to dedion hub which is cast iron. (hub on dedion is different material to rest of dedion _ you can see where hub is joined.
5)Then fitted caliper with another bracket(B) attached to caliper. this bracket(B) was then welded to bracket (A) when caliper and pad was sittining perfectly
6) re lable everything A and B if its confusing pics might add some sense
7) connect new lines , bleed and got brakes in one day ( calipers and bells took a week to make)
Why did i do this ?? (to add more unsprung weight no)
Take as much heat off my gearbox(trying to eliminate my gearbox failures due to heat induced). Also I have added an oil cooler which will post later.
Process :
1) make bell and disc
2) work out distance for bracket A to be welded to dedion which was 23mmaway from disc
3) made 23mm spacers then G clamped a plateA which was profiled to the shape of dedion
4)Welded plateA with "special" rods to dedion hub which is cast iron. (hub on dedion is different material to rest of dedion _ you can see where hub is joined.
5)Then fitted caliper with another bracket(B) attached to caliper. this bracket(B) was then welded to bracket (A) when caliper and pad was sittining perfectly
6) re lable everything A and B if its confusing pics might add some sense
7) connect new lines , bleed and got brakes in one day ( calipers and bells took a week to make)
Why did i do this ?? (to add more unsprung weight no)
Take as much heat off my gearbox(trying to eliminate my gearbox failures due to heat induced). Also I have added an oil cooler which will post later.
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Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Pics of brakes on. My new bells or hats with spigot is been made also with two countersunk holes to hold it to hub.
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- calipersboth.jpg (66.84 KiB) Viewed 5734 times
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Other pics of my screw in tow hook through fiberglaqss bumper
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Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
QUESTION TIME again .
I fitted an oilcooler but put the return line into gearbox where you fill it up. Is this correct as I think the SZ goes in by breather
Secondly if the gearbox takes 3l litres of oil how do you guage how much will be needed for cooler and pump. remember cooler and pump sits higher than box so it does drain back. I am using a Mocul set up with filter.
I fitted an oilcooler but put the return line into gearbox where you fill it up. Is this correct as I think the SZ goes in by breather
Secondly if the gearbox takes 3l litres of oil how do you guage how much will be needed for cooler and pump. remember cooler and pump sits higher than box so it does drain back. I am using a Mocul set up with filter.
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- oilcooler set up.jpg (80.12 KiB) Viewed 5733 times
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Kevin,
Regarding the oil capacities..
My manual says the transaxle oil volume is 2.85 litres and not 3. I seem to recollect the Europeans talk of oil by weight and not volume. Kimmo might chime in..
For the additional volume, I suggest filling the new hardware with a simple fluid like kerosene. Remove this contents and measure the volume. This will be the additional amount in circulation of oil you need to ad.
If the breather is used for the return point, there must be another escape route for the increased pressure when its hot otherwise it will just blow it out via the seals.
Regarding the oil capacities..
My manual says the transaxle oil volume is 2.85 litres and not 3. I seem to recollect the Europeans talk of oil by weight and not volume. Kimmo might chime in..
For the additional volume, I suggest filling the new hardware with a simple fluid like kerosene. Remove this contents and measure the volume. This will be the additional amount in circulation of oil you need to ad.
If the breather is used for the return point, there must be another escape route for the increased pressure when its hot otherwise it will just blow it out via the seals.
Transaxle Alfas Haul More Arse
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Ok, thoughts were if pump runs at all times ( some guys dont put pump on until oil warms up) then i have worked out i need 3.9 litres ( thanks md for plan)andoil will return to oil filler port. I need to address my breather system to make sure it can handle any surprises. Possible put one way valve in so when you swith pump off not all the oil drains back to box .
If i only put in 2.85 litres then i need to put return directly to spray onto gears and i can run it with pump off as well.
Any of this makes any logical sense.
If i only put in 2.85 litres then i need to put return directly to spray onto gears and i can run it with pump off as well.
Any of this makes any logical sense.
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- Platinum
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- Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:05 pm
- Location: Sunny Euro-Brisney
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
For future reference the easy way is hook the plumbing up, but leave every thing hanging below the box level, fill, run pump, fill again, mount everything. I'm never quite sure whether its better to run a spray bar and feed the cold oil in over the top of everything (which lets you run less oil and basically dry sump the box) like some bike boxes do, or feed in down low to reduce aeration of the oil.
I recall being told spraying cooler oil on the gears isn't a good thing, but was never given a reason why. I also recall that the kiwi built v8 alfetta ran a spraybar cooling setup...
I recall being told spraying cooler oil on the gears isn't a good thing, but was never given a reason why. I also recall that the kiwi built v8 alfetta ran a spraybar cooling setup...
1966 GTV
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
1982 Suzuki "Bathurst" Katana
1995 Cagiva Mito (race kitted 250 powered)
- Giuliettaevo2
- Verde
- Posts: 790
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 11:56 pm
- Location: Netherlands
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
What happens inside the SZ/RZ box? they have a cooler on the box.
I remember reading somewhere that spraying the oil is good as long as it's not a mist of oil, which traps too much air in the oil.
I remember reading somewhere that spraying the oil is good as long as it's not a mist of oil, which traps too much air in the oil.
Drive it like you stole it...
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
I made this set up for a few guys here who still have to run torsion bars. Its nearly perfect . I had this set up on my car , it save hours and especially iff you are doing corner weights with a combined RS coilover kit.
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- torsionadjuster.jpg (83.08 KiB) Viewed 5610 times
- Giuliettaevo2
- Verde
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- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 11:56 pm
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Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
That, my friend, is a work of art...
Very nicely done! Did you reuse the part where the torsionbars slide in, the ring with splines on the inside i mean? That would be the most difficult to make i think.
This is even better as the old Autodelta part.
Very nicely done! Did you reuse the part where the torsionbars slide in, the ring with splines on the inside i mean? That would be the most difficult to make i think.
This is even better as the old Autodelta part.
Drive it like you stole it...
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
I can only say that this is a work of art!
how much for it? I'm getting the Giulie ready so this would be very helpful to set up the suspension easier!
how much for it? I'm getting the Giulie ready so this would be very helpful to set up the suspension easier!
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
impressive work their kevin,
so this to tweak ride height without taking torsion bars out and roating?
this would save me alot of time any chance of selling a drawing
so this to tweak ride height without taking torsion bars out and roating?
this would save me alot of time any chance of selling a drawing
79 GTV (sr20) 83 GTV (TS) 85 GTV, 76 GT, 84 GTV6, 91 164, 88 75 TS & 89 75 TS
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
I'd be putting a one way valve in the return line and carrying extra oil capacity on board (expect would be about a litre extra, so is hardly a problematic weight penalty).
Also, would return via the fill plug, assuming the idea is just to keep the oil at its optimum temp, not change the internal oiling characteristics in the box (the gears pretty much run totally bathed in oil anyway, as far as I can recall - don't have a box in front of me at the moment, but the fill plug is at/very close to the top of the box, is it not?).
TB adjusters are very nice. Is the alloy as strong as the cast steel (or is it moot anyway)?
Also, would return via the fill plug, assuming the idea is just to keep the oil at its optimum temp, not change the internal oiling characteristics in the box (the gears pretty much run totally bathed in oil anyway, as far as I can recall - don't have a box in front of me at the moment, but the fill plug is at/very close to the top of the box, is it not?).
TB adjusters are very nice. Is the alloy as strong as the cast steel (or is it moot anyway)?
Jason
1983 GTV6 2.8 litre
1983 GTV6 2.8 litre
Re: No longer a ''budget" race GTV
Jason, was thinking where to put return valve as oil will just flow back other route as cooler and pump are same level above box.