ALFAGTV6.COM

[moynesyt5]

Hi All
New to the forum, so hello to all!
Just a few photo's of the rally car I'm building in the UK. Just had the cage made and installed, and hoping to paint it next weekend.
I've got a 3.0 litre 24v engine to go in it with throttle bodies.
Gaz suspension all round with thicker anti roll bars etc.
I'll keep you posted on up dates.
Cheers
Dave

[Mats]

I'll sure follow this thread.

Nice to see someone that actually weld in som proper seat mounts. That will sure save you some agony if you meet something sideways.

Did you do the fender flares yourself? Looks very time-typical, nice.

[moynesyt5]

Hi Mats
As the seats will be motorsport seats and side mounted, they need better fixing that just to the floor, and the side bars should protect us 'if' rather than 'when' we hit something sideways!
I bought the car as the last photo for £500, with a really sweat 3.0 litre 12v engine and generally good condition all round. The sills were a bit rotton, so they have had a fair bit of patching up.
The body kit is a smaller version of the IMSA kit, and was done by the guy I bought it from, as he owned an independant Alfa garage and this was a customers car. The customer didn't pay him for the work so he kept the car!
Dave

[Mats]

Well, I have motorsport seat. Sparco Evo2. Side mounts. Bolted to floor...
Why? Well, if I did like have done My helmet would hit the sheet metal.

Still a good idea for safety reasons though, but what if i roll it?

[kevin]

Thats the finest roll cage I have seen on the forum yet. If its a rally car I would like to see how much travel you are allowing for bump and rebound on the gaz set up on front.

[moynesyt5]

Your right about the seats, there is not much room above my crash helmet. There is a cross in the roof, which we have bent up the tube to give as much room as possible.

I'll have a look at the details for the shocks from Gaz. They are a good compromise between quality and cost, hand made but the coil over set up for the front and standard set up at the rear with adjustable spring platforms cost me £400 sterling.

[moynesyt5]

A few more photo's with the cage going to the engine bay and the A post gussets.

[Mats]

No tube across in the dash?

[Giuliettaevo2]

Welcome here! Nice car by the way...

Stretching the cage a bit further forward would help the stiffness off the front beam. I mean the beam that goes from left to right where the front antirolbar connects to. two pieces of tube from this beam to the shocktowers put a lot of extra strength into that area.

Also double-check the strength of the two beams where the lower wishbones are bolted against, rust is very common in this area and this can weaken these beams very much.

The wheelarches are cool. It looks like a modern version of my Giulietta.

[moynesyt5]

Mats - We did everything we could to get a tube across the dash, but I want to keep the original dash and the heater system. The car will have perspex windows with sliders, so I need to have the heater to clear the screen.

Giuliettaevo2 - Thanks for the advice on the tube going forwards more, I'll look into that (i think I saw that done on the mega 24v project on this forum). I don't want to put too much forward, incase I hit something with the front of the car, and then the damage goes back into the cage.

Where the wish bone go aren't bad on the car, although I have welded in a few plates just to make sure.

I like the arches, it makes it look like a 4 door Quattro (hope that isn't a swear word on this forum!). My brother has a rally Giulietta which we built last year, and both are so similar with the chassis etc.

Cheers

Dave

[moynesyt5]

The car's now in primer, ready to flat off and the npaint in red at the weekend.
Dave

[moynesyt5]

An update after it has been painted. The boot and bonnet are just for show, I'm waiting for fibreglass ones to arrive.
The engine is in position, just trying to make brackets for house the 164 power steering pump.
I'm also making a new wiring loom at present, so that is fun!!! Working on getting rid of the arc unit, and installing a digidash to replace the standard gauges.
Acrylic has replaced the glass all round, so all the electrics in the doors has been binned.
The Gaz suspension is on, just needs setting up properly.
Also looking at redrilling the hubs to take Ford fitment alloys, 4x108, so I can use a wider choice of wheels with a 0 or minus offset.
I'll keep you posted with more progress
Dave

[MD]

If this is a tarmac rally car, what do you need the brake booster for? It's jus dead weight. Piss it off and the two tons of transfer bar that goes with it that causes firewall flex under serious braking conditions so you never get a rock hard pedal.

You will need to relocate your MC directly onto the pedal box and reservoirs plus new brake line connections of course.

[moynesyt5]

I agree with you, it was the one thing I'm not too happy with.

I was going to put in a brake bias bar (there is one done on the AlfaBB forum, as race 75), then put two cylinders on.

So you have taken the master cylinder from the servo and bolted it to the casting, so what have you done with the pedal?

Dave

[MD]

Dave,

This set up uses a 25mm Toyota 4 bolt MC and an in line regulator for the rear brakes. Please note that the MC is to match other non standard calipers.

The pedal set up is basically the same except I have enlarged the pedal on the brake and applied a high friction surface to it. The clutch pedal is from an early Alfetta and is a lightweight alloy. You dont need a heavy steel pedal for a clutch.

See photo.

Cheers.