ALFAGTV6.COM

[Giuliettaevo2]

That also sounds intersting...

But i always thought you needed to use two UJ's together in one axle?

[MD]

Are we on the same page?
I'm talking propshaft. What are you talking about?

[Giuliettaevo2]

Yeah, page 7...

prop shaft also.

In dutch the propshaft is called a "cardanas" and the drive-axles are called "aandrijfas" so they are both called axles and i used the wrong word..

I always thought you needed two UJ's. With one joint the flanges are not parallel to eachother if you're at an angle, the rubber donut will flex to take this up. when you use two UJ's you're flanges can be kept parallel to each other what will result in less vibrations and wear. if you're perfect in one line with gearbox and crank that's not a real issue but in most cases this is not 100%.

[MD]

Haha, the only Dutch I know is TAXI !
Fortunately I am much more fluent in German. I know three words : Ya, shnitzel and shnell.

Here's the variety of shafts I have experimented with:-

Two piece shafts

1 Three UJ's, smooth but too much hammering noise under 1800 rpm. Rear slip joint. Very usefull for maintenance.
2 BMW front donut, CV centre, UJ rear. Good, noise noise.
3 BMW donut, CV centre,rear donut with locating bearing fitted to clutch input shaft so you could use a rear Mercedes donut.Bad combo. During acceleration and deceleration, the CV moves >15mm< or so causing the rear donut to flex like hell.If a centre UJ was used instead,this would have not been a problem. Otherwise good but costly and too much fiddle.
I experimented with this because I was breaking clutch housings. Later I discovered a bad alignment problem which I attributed to the propshaft but that wasn't the case.
4 My GTV road car. Front BMW V8 donut, CV centre,custom rear UJ and slip joint.Good.Unexpected benefit,smoother shifts and no worries about leaving the donut fragments behind at the lights on take off.

One piece

BMW front donut,no centre bearing, slip joint at rear with a custom UJ.
This one is yet to be tested.Requires inboard shifter.

[MD]

FOUL UP !!As with all projects, the best intentions go astray. I spent all of my time making sure the fixing bolt centres of the replacement donut were correct, even making spacers for them that I overlooked the overall diameter. This is because I have done a number of previous conversions which all worked so I just sort of took it for granted that the diameter was not going to be an issue. I roughly measured the rear engione mount opening to see if it would accommodate it and it seemed that it would. Now that I come to install it, I find only about a 2mm clearance at the circumference whereas the original Alfa donut has around 10-12mm.

There is only one reason for this. I'M Dickhead !!

So do not follow me in this post. You could wind up in the same dog poo.

This is one of the reasons why I was reluctant to post before testing for my previous car because things don't allways work out the way you expect.

Here's some pics to show you the problem. Sure it can be fitted but there isn't enough rotational room for the donut to "grow" when under full rotation load so that it will rub itself on the inside housing to destruction.

Back to the drawing board.....

[MD]

While I am recovering from a bout of Influenza and not doing much at all, I thought you guys might want to see a short footage of some local racing at the Lakeside track that I attended last week end.

Hope to get amongst it next year.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_nioS0R8DY

[PietereQ]

I see although chin-less, the brick is alive, and happy around the corners

[MD]

Yes I suppose. It has new owners now and the car is not exactly like it used to be but I dont know the details of the changes and its not my place to say anyway.

If you have a look at the week ends results, it seems to be a mid field runner ATM.

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/resul ... 0.LAKE.R11

By the way hairy legs, how is the Polish racemobile going these days. Got that prop shaft humming yet?

[MD]

Started to feel a bit better today so I thought I'd have a crack at finishing the headers I started. Primaries 38mm I.D. x 915mm four into one merge collector.

These are for bottom end torque on my street engine. They can be further tuned by adding or removing lengths where they join the collector to get a proper match.

I think they are kind of cool. They remind me of some motor cycle headers.

[Mats]

Nice.

Alternator delete or switch sides?

[MD]

Hi Mats, thanks. Yep alternator is on the intake side. See page #5

[GTV27]

nah mate, those headers won't work. The zorst gas is not gunna go fowards like that! Ya gotta point em backwards, like on a drag car!

[Mats]

hehe.

What made you go for the 4-1 in favour of the 4-2-1?

[BradGTV]

nice work
they look good and im sure they will flow good
do you buy the tubing from an exhaust shop? or bend yourself?

[MD]

Mats. I hear where you are coming from. For ease of construction of the exhaust for a medium power output engine but tuned for bottom end torque, the 4>1 with goilet collector is nearly as good.It is also easier to cut or add to the end of the pipes before the collector to finalise the tuned length prior to stiching on the secondary section. Additionally if we decide to upgrade the power output of the engine later and shift the power band up the rev range, we'll be using bigger ID pipes and shorter ones but the basic pattern is there for me to replicate and I don't have to scratch the head too much for how I am going to make the next lot.

Jason, I just got one question for ya? Does a fart go backwards and land between your ears if you're running in reverse? Lunacy appreciated at all times.

Brad,

I use prefabricated bends which I source from exhaust material wholesalers that supply the trade. Unfortunately they will not deal with retail enquiries. You may be lucky enough for an exhaust shop to sell you the individual bends or they may bend some up for you for a price. I cannot be sure.

The manifold plate is laser cut from 10mm mild steel by a laser cutting workshop.

For anyone else following this topic

The configuration of these headers as seen is contigent upon the location of the alternator on the intake side of the engine which keeps it out of harms way anyway.