ALFAGTV6.COM

Mats wrote:It does look surprised that one.

What are the keyes for?

btw, how manu in here have actually used a handcranked phone in real life to make an actual call? I have...

So have I....grandma used to live at the countryside...

So after some time killing lunacy (thanks Pete)here are a few more development items a little more to the point.

Ever had the problem of trying to remove the flywheel or the front pulley but it was always a challenge as the engine just keeps rotating when you try to apply force to the bolts? Well, I came up with this little solution that is easy to make and serves equally well to remove the flywheel or the front pulley.

Of course it is just as usefull for refitting these same items. As you can see it's just made out of scrap.

When modifying the front suspension one of the simplest ways of getting good castor adjustment that is accurate and stays that way and gives more precise steering feel is to install the 105 ball joint.

For those in the know, this is elementary so these pics are intended for the novices who read this Forum post.

The aluminium spacer plate needs to be scultured to fit neatly into the body housing. It is not just flat. Be sure to use at least 12.9 hardness fixing bolts. The most secure way of fitting this onto this chassis is on the engine bay side but that is a bit more involved and I am not going to cover it here.

Finally got the engine into the engine bay. Don't forget that this is a street engine with some basic enhacements as the car is a trainer.

One of the first things I did was to install a miniture alternator. Note that it is fixed to the cool side of the engine. This is for two reasons. Firstly because it is not going to be heat challenged from the headers. That is obvious. Secondly, all my wiring loom will be located on the RHS of the car on the "cool" side of the engine and so there will not be any ugly wiring criss crossing the engine bay.

Kevin, note the large diameter pulley fitted to the alternator. This helps to keep the rotational speed within their tolerance and wont cause it to fly apart at big revs. (A problem I know you used to have in the past)

This unit is rated at 40 amps and is ample for any EFI set up.

When doing outboard brake conversions, if you leave out the brake rotor from the drive shaft assembly, it will be shorter by the thickness of the rotor itself. The simplest way to fix this is to machine down an original worn out rotor that would otherwise be thrown away. This will ensure that the original length will be reinstated.

One of the things I like to do is to modify the shifter to my preference and so I place it on top. It's a little different to the one on the Brick and different again to the one in my road GTV6.

At this point you can cut the actual shifter rod any length you like. I am going to start with it at its original length and see what its like on the track.

That's what I like to see. (apart from crankhandle phones and magboots )
What calipers and rotors are you going to use in the rear? While in Holland I saw plenty of guys running std front calipers, and prolly front rotors, seems pretty straightforward conversion.

Here is a pic of the coil over front springs that have just arrived.

Free height 180mm
Rate 600lbs
Coil bind, about 80mm
Brand: "Kings"

I am fitting these on a set of revalved Bislteins fitted upside down.(not at hand at the moment)

For the front?

Yeah Mats for the front. My post says that on the photo but I should have put it in the text as well. Last car had the same equivalent rate with a 19mm sway bar at the front and none at the rear.

Still wrestling with a rear rate value having had 400 or so lbs variable rate in the rear before which worked well. Trouble is I got no real idea of what the ACTUAL operating rate was in its range with 35mm suspension travel. Never measued it at the time.

Probably going to start with something around 250lbs and no sway bar and see how it behaves.

Mats wrote:For the front?

wtf? what would 600lb be like on the back?

Depends on where you put it...

Mats wrote:Depends on where you put it...

In the trunk

and what the weight of the car is
how smooth your track is.
your driving style etc....

For my ring ts 600 [lb/in] front coil on top of the standard 22 [mm] torsion bars, 400 in the back on original position works great on the n'ring.
And I don't recall it being a smooth track

Maurizio,

So that would roughly translate into a 2:1 spring rate ie. Double the spring rate in the front compared to the rear?

How much does your car weigh? Do you know its corner weights?

What size sway bars front and back (if any) ?

from memory 1.8 : 1
Take also into account that I use what you guys call a huge ar bar in front (comparable to a solid 30 [mm] bar). Backside standard ar bar present.

Corner weights/Total weight also?? I can't answer, I know shame on me.
Two years ago my daily ts was put on a scale when importing it.
It was 1160 [Kg] with 30 [l] fuel present. (front/back ratio was 51% - 49%)

The ring ts is a stripped car, no power steering etc., but no real sheet metal removed.
Windows and even e-motors of the front sides still present. And no cage present.
So best guess ~ 1070 [Kg] without driver.