ALFAGTV6.COM

here is where i will document the build of my track car.
the car is a 1979 GTV, i bought the car for $700 AU and plan to build it as a track with the following:

Suspension:
-koni shocks
-bigger roll bars
-lowerd, stiffer rear springs
-new bushes

Brakes:
- volvo 4 pot calipers, and 164 vented rotors up front
- outboard rear brakes, alfa 90, gtv6, 75 front rotors and calipers mounted onto the de-deion.
- no booster, BMW mastercylinder mounted next to clutch mastercylinder.
- adjustible bias valve
- simmons v4 3-piece race wheels

Gearbox:
- standard alfetta
- with LSD or welded diff
- short-shift shifter

Car:
- fix rust
- build and install roll cage
- modifie body to fit 3" exhaust between steering rack and body
- paint white, inside, underneath, and outside
- no interior, only race buket, harness and dash

Engine:
- 2.0 ltr Nord from 83 GTV
- standard internals
- head ported
- cams
- DELCO EFI from GM re-tro fitted with a re-mapped ecu
- wasted spark, distributerless ignition
- Garrett Turbo from nissan z18
- 10psi
- 30lb per hour injectors
- equal length, stainles steel turbo header
- 3' dump pipe into 2.5 2.5" side pipe exhaust

this is a list of what i would like to happen, but we will see how it turns out
if you have any suggestin or comments of the project as it happesn please shar with me, i will be also alsking lots of questions so hopefully you smart people can help me out

Hi Brad,
if you are bound to any homologation ?

In my opinion, first for the turbo engine you need piston colling!
I made the pipeline outside because to adjust the nozzles exactly to exaust side without any contact during crankîng.




Greetings
Marco

Too bad you're in AUS, I have a set of Ross Turbo pistons that would fit that engine perfectly. looks like stock ones but are lighter and stronger...

thanks for the replies
i agree with you marco, but i wasnt planning on openeing the engine up,
1 of 2 spare engines i have has a ported head and better cams in it already,
i planned on boosting the standard engine at 10psi to see how it goes, when i want more power say 15-20psi i will build a low CR engine, with piston colling and epoxy liners

mats - are the pistons lower CR or standard 9:1 ?, only thing is postage from sweden will cost me alot
cheers, Brad

marco - do you have anyother pictures of you turbo motor, you would like to share?

here is a pic of the stainless turbo header i am making, a stanless flange still needs to be made, and holes cut in the flange at 45* to suit the angle of the nord head. the manifold is off another car, toyota i think? and the port spacing is very, very close to alfa, so i will heat up a bit, spread and tig to alfa made flange

9.0, but you get 8.5 if you put in TS rods...

a picture of the inlet plenum, the plenum is from a Holden (GM) camira, there efi system and inlet manifold are the only thing the camira is good for!
i will upgrade to a 65mm throttle body from a Holden 5ltr v8.

now for oil feed and return from turbo, for the oil feed i will be putting a T-piece where the oil pressure sensor is then running braided/teflon hose to the turbo, but for oil return is it best to go back into the sumpor somewhere else? has anyone a piture of where to make the oil return go?

where is the best place for the oil return from the turbo to go? the oil feed will come from a T-piece between the block and pressure sensor, but not sure about return, sump? above oil line?

Brad,

I have no experience with turbos so I cannot give you direct piece of advice. I am just thinking that the supply feed will be under pressure and should be the same pressure as the rest of the engine internals(?)

This means the discharge side needs to be at less pressure for the fluid to move. However returning it directly to sump may cause a total pressure drop in the engine itself. Perhaps a return to sump via a pressure regulator that is set just a tad below the line pressure?

Just flaging some thoughts ,that's all.

The oil return line should return to the oil pan. The fitting in the pan should be above the oil level. The return line should be downhill all the way from the turbo to the pan. If it isn't it will smoke.

Greg

Like Greg says. Also the return needs to be large bore, something like 20mm. The oil will be almost like froth and needs a large bore or it will smoke.

MD, you are correct, a return line to the sump will cause an oil pressure drop because you are essentially introducing a leak in the oil pressure system that leaks back into the sump. However, we can think of it as a calibrated leak, not so much that it will cause any damage, but enough so you will see it on an oil pressure gauge.

BradGTV wrote:marco - do you have anyother pictures of you turbo motor, you would like to share?

No problem

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3950&p=40570#p40570

Marco

thanks marco, very nice work there
some pictures of the rust being fixed, overall the car wasnt too bad, but had a huge dent in the passange side quater, previous owner must of slip into a light pole lucky i could get to it from the inside and pushed most the dent out. in one spot there was a beer can holding some bog in place i still need to fix some rust in the floor and a tiny spot below the windscreen.

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