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BradGTV wrote:
a picture of the stainless manifold, fits a treat, ill just need a twinspak exhaust flange drawing! so i can get a flange laser cut and weld it up! please, someone out there must have a drawing, or cad drawing that they could scan and send to me?

the sensor on the side of the block, that is just above the oil dip stick, whats it for?
cheers, Brad

Nice manifold.

It's the oil pressure warning light sender, will start to leak sooner or later.

i have CAD ts flange with 40.1 hole ... need it or need other size hole? just tell me

thanks mats,
so would it be good to put and t-block in and use it to feed the turbo oil?

TS turbo - ill take a few mesurments and let you know, thanks you very much!

I don't know what will be adequate ...if you can find the engine's need for fuel in gallons per hour at full open and get a pump that is close or above that you should be good.

As far as I can remember, that is where the 75T gets the oil from. I plan to use that as a take-off point on my engine as well. It's pretty much the optimum place, right after the pump/filter in the main oil gallery.

cool, thanks for the info
and for your oil return its back into the sump yes? above the oil level?
cheers, Brad

TS Turbo - the O.D of my tubing is about 40.2mm if you could please modify your cad drawing to this measurment and send it to me? that would be absolutly fantastic

tell me ID of flange ... 41.2 x2mm header flange hole 37.2?

hi ts turbo!
if you could please make the I.D of the 4 holes in the manifold 43 mm that would be great!
cheers, brad

finally some more progress,
the car has been stripped down a fair bit,
engine out, gearbox out, interior out, grille, lights, trim ect. has all been taken off.
next step is to remove the sound deadening
any tips on doing so? im going to try a heat gun with chisel and hammer any other options?

i through the 3.0 v6 in just to see how it fits, would be good for torque but too heavy for my car, will save it for my daily driver

... and the TS in, just dummy fitting it to check that manifold and turbo will clear shock tower ect. and have a look at the option of fitting a 3" exhaust down between the firewall and steering rack, i assume this has been done before?

cheers, brad

BradGTV wrote: next step is to remove the sound deadening
any tips on doing so? im going to try a heat gun with chisel and hammer any other options?

Nice project!

If you haven't already removed the sound deadening, don't heat it. Use dry ice. Heat makes it very difficult to remove. Freeze it and chip it out.

Good luck!

~Chris

Brad
Placement of the exhaust pipe between the rack the firewall is achievable. Fitted a 62mm od pipe there myself before. The area may need a bit of "massaging" on the firewall with a 5 lb hammer to make some room if necessary.

Key other consideration will be heat shielding the rack so don't overlook that.

Chris,

Obviously you haven't read previous threads on this. Dry ice is NOT the technique. It's cumbersome, slow and dangerous.

Brad, buy a $20 heat gun from Bunnings and $2 paint scrapper. By far the simplest and best method. Be sure to wear some leather gloves in case the heat moves accidentally towards your hands. Best done outside for dispersal of fumes. Dont heat it so it burns .Only enough so that it is soft and pliable. Scape off. Collect all of it in a bucket. Weigh it all at the end to see the amount of weight savings you have made.

Cheers, MD

MD wrote:Brad
Placement of the exhaust pipe between the rack the firewall is achievable. Fitted a 62mm od pipe there myself before. The area may need a bit of "massaging" on the firewall with a 5 lb hammer to make some room if necessary.

Key other consideration will be heat shielding the rack so don't overlook that.

On a RHD car? On a LHD car it will cause sweaty feet, on a turbo car very much so...

MD wrote: Chris,

Obviously you haven't read previous threads on this. Dry ice is NOT the technique. It's cumbersome, slow and dangerous.

Brad, buy a $20 heat gun from Bunnings and $2 paint scrapper. By far the simplest and best method. Be sure to wear some leather gloves in case the heat moves accidentally towards your hands. Best done outside for dispersal of fumes. Dont heat it so it burns .Only enough so that it is soft and pliable. Scape off. Collect all of it in a bucket. Weigh it all at the end to see the amount of weight savings you have made.

Cheers, MD

Room temp is the way! Just break the corners on the chisel so it won't damage the primer and hammer away. The stuff comes off very easily (without fumes!) in small pieces, leaves just a little bit left that can be wiped off with some solvent.

Mats,
Brad's car is RHD. The Swedes should never have changed over!!

Let's agree to disagree about removal of deadening material.

We actually had LHD cars even before switching to driving on the right. Interesting overtaking procedures I presume...