Finally got my custom made side exit silencer for certain tracks that have DB limits ( and for my neighbour hood) .
I will take a few minutes to interchange between straight through and having box on it . The guys made it perfectly as you can see it just slides on . Maybe I should leave it sticking out but it might be tricky for cyclists
Will post some pics when fitted properly and I have cut the exit pipes vertically .
My experience with slide on fixings is not that good. If corrosion sets in, they will bind up and become a pain. That is why my system is fully flanged in key sections and captive nuts welded to one of the flanges. I use stainless bolts and an anti seize paste to keep the threads from binding up.
Good time to rework it is now if you agree.
I agree its a real b1#tch to get slide on exhaust separated. This process costs me the most time actually in the workshop when I'm doing a simple prop coupling change on the GTV's . My car is a 100km from the workshop so I thought in meantime to get all it cut and fitted and see how it sounds . I will apply quite alot of copper grease . Then when car is at workshop I can cut it properly and install flange . As there is an overlap in slider their is no problem. I just need to find a flange and rotate it so it does not interfere on ground clearance . Note my silencer box is only 2.5 " thick or high .
MD wrote:Love your "extended" noise control measures Kev.
My experience with slide on fixings is not that good. If corrosion sets in, they will bind up and become a pain. That is why my system is fully flanged in key sections and captive nuts welded to one of the flanges. I use stainless bolts and an anti seize paste to keep the threads from binding up.
Good time to rework it is now if you agree.
V band clamps. .
A bit more expensive, but more compact (great for threading the pipe thru a tight space) and don't need gaskets or sealant. Mitsubishi turbochargers hold the turbine housings onto the bearing core with them.
My friend and mechanic told me that the work on the transmission depends on how long it takes to remove the exhaust. LOL, that just tells you how bad the usual slip fit joints are. Lucky for him, my car's exhaust is fully V-band clammed. Get the stainless ones with the lip so that is no misalignment. Literally, 5 minutes and all the exhaust is off.
It's better than flanges as this is a single bolt deal, no gasket or sealant needed. And the ones with the stepped lipped means 100% alignment and fit with no leaks. 100% worth the money.
V band clamps ! Geez I have never seen this before . Their brilliant as they even have a locating lip in them . You would think I would have seen this already been in the UK for nearly two years . Maybe I have but just thought it was a normal clamp when I had come across it here .
Thanks guys and the pricing is good here in UK .
They add a "snag point" in the exhaust though. Not a problem if they are located near a muffler but you get the point.
My different approach to the slip joint rage issue when working on the exhaust on my now dead race car was this: NEVER EVER use a clamp, they deform the joint and cause the rage. Remove most of the overlap and add a couple of tabs on each side of the joint. Get some springs or even a screw to keep them together and add copper grease to the inner tube to keep them from seizing. Don't worry, it wont cake/burn and the joint will separate very easy.
It will leak for about as minute before the inner tube has heated up and sealed against the outer one but after that it is perfect.
No weight, quick to assemble/remove, no snagging point and allows for some movement. Pretty much perfect.
Mats Strandberg -Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground... -onemanracing.com- -Strandberg.photography-
GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
Good alternatives with good reasons . Probably get this detail sorted in the summer until I get car to workshop . At moment I will pile on copper grease and not over tighten clamps to prevent distortion - now that I'm aware of it . Importantly it will pass DB level at Goodwood and at same keep Harry over the road calm when I'm warming up car
Heh heh ! Wish I could but the police system does work here . So I will have DB tester man from the department of noise pollution doing a full evaluation and risk assessment - after a cup of tea
Speaking of that how's the DTM replica 155 going ? Any burnouts in the street dam I miss that !
Yeah I have always kept them straight out but I'm trying everything to get noise under 97dba at Goodwood track side monitoring . Turning them up was the 155dtm way of reducing dba from removing deflection off surface .
Right now they are rain traps but I'm still going to cut the tips vertical even though they point up .
Took a while to search for correct gearbox oil or best type of oil for the ZF 5 speed front mount box . You can find a huge amount of info in M3 ( aaarrgghh) forums but to get exact quantity of oil is not easy either . Anyway it takes 1.3 litres . If you think Alfa gear levers can get worn in the linkages and bushings then you should see how many pieces you can replace on the BMW set up !
You know its cold when a piece of ice falls out the creases in the car cover while you working on it . Now that probably common for most northern hemisphere people
Atleast I got hold of a great gearbox oil pump which I will use on the transaxle in the summer .
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