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Bought the car as a donor car, had all the bits I needed to finish off my 3.0, front and rear windsceens, 3.0 spoiler (brand new tucked away on the rear seats), the rest would be used to restore my White 2.5 that had been standing for 17 years. Well as things turned out, the white 2.5 became the donor car and this one survived. PowerMods did the power train transplant, then the car went to TNT for the roll cage. I've had it for a month or so, coated the rollcage tied up some loose ends and started working on the electrics as the wiring was a pretty mess. A long story short, the car landed up at PowerMods to get the wiring sorted. I went to collect the car on Saturday 30 March, one discussion led to another and before I knew it together with them (or ... let me recall.. oh yes ... they supervised and I did the work ) by the 1st April, the rust was cut out new plates welded in, car was stripped (glass, beadings, panels, bumpers only the front windscreen is still in, but not for long) and the car is ready to go in to be resprayed. Will post pics shortly, although its a bugger as they have to be less than 250k, pics on my phone are 1mb size.

You can download an App called Photoforge2 . Then you can resize pics and transfer back to photo album . I wil send you email .
What colour is car gonna be ?

I'm keeping it RED, leaving the bumpers grey. Keeping original15" 2.5 rims, however the 7J might be too narrow. want to try and get 205 - 235 tyres on.

Here are some pictures. Kevin thanks for the tip on resizing photos on iPhone, I found and app called iResize and works well for me.

Got the car home did some odd and ends on it, then it was off to PowerMods for the Engine and drive train transplant.

wow.... i like...

Here some pics of the rollcage.

Car stripped down, rust spots treated and ready to be resprayed.

More pics of bodywork

You have done a lot of work , this might be to nice to race unless you get Paul to do the loading and offloading
You should try rolling the lip in the rear arch for more clearance when you lower it with 7jrims and then fill the inside lip with silicone otherwise its traps water and dirt which leads to rust .

Thanks, good idea rolling the lip on the rear wheel arches,especially if I go for an 8j rim ala the 15" 3.0 split compomotives. I also have a set of 17" 8J, if you recall the rims that came on the 3.0 I bought.

Try take exhaust out the side . Saves the cv boot , no heat into caliper and also reduces heat onto gearbox . Not to mention the extra power you gain if you keep design simple . If you do go out side use 2x 50mm for clearance ( or flatten a 74mm) and make sure they come out 150mm from jacking point as you won't be able to put car on that four post lift .
Any specs on that motor ? Or is that the secret weapon ? Maybe a close up of that injector rail .

Kevin, I'm going to keep it as stock as possible. Idea is to use it as a fun street car, so want exhaust noise levels as low a possible. Also want it to keep the look as close to original as possible, no need to alert our traffic officers. Want to be able to drive the car to the club track days and events.

For racing I have the GTV 2.8 TT. That's the idea anyway, lets see how it all pans out and if I stick to my plan.

Car scheduled to go into the Autobody shop on Monday and they say it'll take them 2 weeks to prep and respray. During this time I'll finish off the suspension on my race car. Then probably another 2 weeks for me to assemble the car, in all likely hood I'll probably only start after the Kyalami race.

Car has been at the Autobody shop for 1 week, they have done a great job in preparing it and getting it ready to be resprayed.

All indications are that they'll have it completed by Friday 20th April really looking forward to seeing it roll out the spry booth. Then we'll start assembling it. Big decisions and choices to be made do i work in getting the suspension finished on the race car or do I assemble this one over the week end

1st May is a PH and "Z" have an open TEST day.... I will be there on 1st...