Some more brake upgrades for the 116.

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Barry
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Post by Barry » Sat Dec 18, 2004 10:25 am

A,The 155 tourer is still in pta.Need to collect it early new year.Cant wait to start work on that. 8) That 75 was a monster in its own right,hey.Will sort out your brakes when you visit in Jan.

Mats,awaiting you mail with bated breath......

Barry
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French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
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Andrew.b
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Post by Andrew.b » Sat Dec 18, 2004 10:29 am

Barry - what can I say.........That engine looks AWESOME.


NICE ONE!


Andrew
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Post by Norway » Sun Dec 19, 2004 1:43 pm

Hope i can get som prices for a set with 4 pots calippers.The praggia calippers looks realy nice
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Post by Andrew.b » Sun Dec 19, 2004 2:11 pm

Norway

You could try contacting Barry in South africa

Barry Henning: ztech@absamail.co.za

I think he's a dealer for the brakes over there!

Andrew
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 9:43 am

N,Praggia are still developing the 4 pot caliper .This will be made with the provision for a handbrake mech. and without.

The caliper is NOT intended for frnt wheel use, only for the rear to supplement the 6 and 8 pot caliper.

I would reccomend the 6 pot cal.It is truly awsome and can be used with your std type Alfa frnt discs.

I have recieved a lot of mails from you guys wanting to know how to fit the gta type disc and calipers to your cars.Well ,I will start the procedure on this thread for those of you interested.

Once you have your gta or 3.0 gtv (new type) disc,Have the spigot hole machined out to the same size as found on the std Alfa disc.

The mounting is the same, ie. fitted to the hub from behind.
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:03 am

Those of you who dont know,the gta disc has 10 holes on the pcd. and the 3.0l disc has 5.

I have two methods of fitting studs to the 2 types of disc.Let me say now that the 3.0l disc can also be done as the gta disc,you just have to dril the extra 5 holes between the originals.Why??
We need to drill and tap the disc for a 12x1.5 pitch high tensile bolt to screw through.

On the gta disc simply drill the small holes to a 10.2mm size and then tap the hole with a 12x1.5 pitch tap.Once this is done have your 65mm long bolts handy and a 2mm or there abouts machined washer.Use old 1750 cyl kead washers,same thing.This is neccesary to clear the radius on the bolt head .The threads also dont go right up to the bolt head.I dont put a schamfer on the disc hole as this takes away too much of the tapped thread in the disc.We need all the thread we can det for strength.When fitting the bolts to the discs, use a locktite of the greatest strength you can find.This is to stop the bolt from reversing out when you tighten the wheel nuts ultimately..
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:09 am

Drilling done,then tap...
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:15 am

Can we post more than one pic at a time??
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:32 am

What yoiu should end up with is something like this...
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Andrew.b
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Post by Andrew.b » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:43 am

Hi Barry


Looks great...... do you put a 8 or 9mm spacer on on the front of the disc - between the disc and hub - to bring the offset back to standard?? As the gta disc's are shallower then original?

Andrew
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Post by Mats » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:43 am

Why not use the standard studs and the standard setup? :?:
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GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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Post by Andrew.b » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:49 am

Mats

There's no way to stop the studs turning if you use the standard set-up, the standard gtv6 disc has a machined groove for the studs to sit in, the studs also have a flat edge which locks up against this groove to prevent them spinning - gta disc is missing the groove!

Also standard studs are too small for the holes!

Andrew
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Post by Mats » Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:53 am

duh, drill smaller holes then... :wink:
And you can always tack a small piece of metal on there to keep them from rotating.
Didn't Zamani do that to his rotors? Z?
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-

GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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Post by Zamani » Mon Dec 20, 2004 5:17 pm

Creative stuff Barry! Threading the the rotors. OK I had a friend weld small pieces on the back of the rotor. Didn't work too well. So then I just drilled holes and bolted on some small allen bolts adjacent to the "flat" side of the studs to stop it from spinning. Or was it a countersunk machine scew... I forgot...but I know the hub sits flush on the rotor.
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Barry
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Post by Barry » Mon Dec 20, 2004 8:32 pm

:D Ive been through the process of using the std bolts.Never again.They come loose once the wheel is on and you have to remove,the worst thing out is changing your wheel on the freeway and the friggin stud spins and does not loosen.Never again.....

The second method is to have a ring of mild steel laser cut and to tack weld the bolts to the ring.This then goes through the disc (Use an 8mm bolt to hold the ring and the disc to the hub) and is also foolproof....
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