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<  Braking  ~  hi

PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:20 am
SilverSilverJoined: Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:14 amPosts: 2
hi,can anyone give me a few hints about replacing the handbrake cable on a transaxel?photos of how the cable is routed and connected to the rear calipers?Can it be changed without dismanteling half the underside? :D


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:30 am
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:45 amPosts: 516Location: Canton, Ohio
Rear brake adjustment is not intuitive, and this includes the cable. First, see if your pads need replacing. If so, there are adjustment screws (4) one for each pad that have to be turned a certain way to set and remove the pads.

Handbrake operates the inner pads (one on each side) if they are gapped w/ the disc, you need to reset them.

Make all pad adjustments with the H brake cable slack (down handle position)

Once satified with pad thickness and position, then you can adjust the hand brake cable screw.

here is one bit of many write-ups I have found helpful in the past :

MORE AT : http://www.alfagtv6.com/cl_brak.htm


From: FERDINANDO DI MATTEO <fredalfa@sprintmail.com>
Date: Sat, 17 May 1997 17:28:34 -0400
Adjusting inboard brake calipers


I've had a number of people call me about the rear inboard brake
calipers found in Alfettas, GTV-6s and Milanos. Which way to turn the
adjusters to remove the pads and how to adjust the clearances, I can
never remember exactly so I did mine today and wrote it down for you.
Be certain the parking brake handle if fully disengaged, then;
Let's start with the left side caliper. Looking at the unit from the
rear of the car, you'll see a hex head bolt looking at you. That is the
adjuster for the inboard brake pad. It gets turned counter clockwise to
retract the piston. (be sure you turn it only until the pad stops, NO
FARTHER!) Now look at the left side that's facing the wheel and see a
17mm plastic cap which you'll remove. Inside is a 17mm locknut which you
will turn counter clockwise not more than one full turn. An Allen
wrench inserted into the screw is turned clockwise only until the pad
stops. Now you can remove the pads. The same procedure for the right
side but the hex head bolt gets turned clockwise to retract the piston.
The 17mm locknnut gets turned counter clockwise one full turn. The
Allen wrench gets turned clockwise to withdraw the piston til it stops,
NO MORE. Now comes the hard part. Clean the guides so the pads can
slide in and out freely. Be careful of the wires for the wired pads.
Using two (2) feeler gauges of .002", place one under each pad and
tighten the adjusters until the pads bear down on the feelers tightly,
then back off just enough to pull the feelers out. Now you'll have to
turn the 17mm lock nut (both go clockwise) but you MUST hold the Allen
wrench to keep from changing the pad clearance. Take it out for a test
ride, apply the brakes several times then recheck the clearances.

A word of caution, do not settle for less than a perfect adjustment and
I assume you'll know enough to replace the rotors if they are less than
spec thickness.

[ end ]


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