166 24v into 116 GTV

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4SFED4
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by 4SFED4 » Wed Dec 20, 2017 5:56 am

Wow, those Toyota discs are so inexpensive, incredible. They come in both rubber and alu... wonder what problem they were trying to solve with the aluminum. Guess I have some Googling to do.

Interesting video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPddmvjB3bE
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by Giuliettaevo2 » Wed Dec 20, 2017 2:57 pm

Bmw and Mercedes use a rubber as a front coupling in the propshaft. That piece of the shaft exactly points to the carrier bearing in the middle of the shaft. There is very minimal movement opposed to the alfa front donut. They generally last a very long time. At our driftcars we have never needed to replace one and those cars are abused all the time. We've put 490hp on old original bmw flexdiscs and they survived it...

If it was just rpm and centrifugal forces there should be problems with all three guibos in the alfa propshaft. However in most cases it's just the front one that gives up. That's why I'm convinced that the twisting in the guibo is bad and affects it's livespan.
Drive it like you stole it...
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by 75evo » Wed Dec 20, 2017 3:49 pm

I've had center guibos blow up too though. I had the thick center guibo because my driveshaft didn't have the splined yoke in the front.
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by KevinR » Sat Dec 23, 2017 4:13 pm

Centre guibo only explodes if it's twenty years old !
My old race car with the 3.7 in it I made new engine mounts and lasered it up to the gear box . Then braced the engine so it could not twisted and bolted the box mounts . Their was no vibration of any sort at high rpm and that prop with the cage and BMW centre guibo lasted 4 years with me and it's still going strong with the guy who still races that car in SA but it has 3.0 motor now . It definitely worked for me .
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by KevinR » Sat Dec 23, 2017 4:24 pm

Some old pics of my engine mounts and using a block with no sump on to get a perfect centre line to the gearbox. The viewing hole was drilled in front of car as in pics .
The old link
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3576&start=165
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Jim K
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by Jim K » Sat Dec 23, 2017 11:32 pm

I was right then when I fixed a laser pointer on the 24v flywheel and moved engine mounts around a bit (by enlarging slots). However, I figured that under power, The gearbox nose moves up, so I aimed for ~10mm higher than the bellhousing center. Still works great, no vibes. 8)
Merry Christmas everyone!

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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by 75evo » Fri Jan 19, 2018 11:35 pm

Kev,

Emailed you a week or two ago. Waiting for response on the guibo cages.
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by KevinR » Sat Jan 20, 2018 4:19 am

Hi Z , I'm getting onto it now . Just packing to go to South Africa on Tuesday as folks not well but nothing to serious.
I have the cages sitting here with me in UK and ready to send . I will email you . Z by the way you don't have any family in UK I can post it to ?
Been having fun loading up loads of parts for my dads spider that unfortunately had a massive engine fire , so gonna be interesting how I go through customs.
There is also loads of racing next week in SA so should get some good pics to post.
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by 75evo » Sat Jan 20, 2018 9:38 am

Hey Kev,

No worries.

Used to have an uncle in Sheffiield but he left. No fam there anymore.

I could pick it up in June, but I want to get the car to the race at Buttonwillow in May. I'll pay for shipping etc. If you come back in early Feb, you can mail it then.
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by PietereQ » Fri Mar 30, 2018 1:57 am

Since I have just about finished prepping my 24V to drop into GTV6, here're a couple of pictures of things I've done a little bit differently.

SUMP.

While the sandwich plate is a nice simple solution, giving away 20mm of ground clearance, was a turn off for me. After some measuring and tinkering, it appears that you can keep stock ground clearance, but that requires modifying the lower sump.

I've cut out a rectangular piece where the 24V oil pickup would be and had "basin" welded in to clear the said pickup.

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I have also added a baffle plate with oil flaps made from viton rubber to slow the oil sloshing down a bit under hard braking.

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Upper oil slosh plate. PM me if you want the CAD file, measuring this thing is a little bit of a PITA.

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Before assembly:
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For all intents and purposes, the final clearance is about 3 mm lower than standard ;)

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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by PietereQ » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:16 am

OIL FILTER.

Tapping the block is probably the best way to go. But if one's doesn't have proper tools or conditions to do so, an non-invasive option is possible. I've used original metal gasket that sits between the block and axle support/oil filter assembly on fwd cars, as a template to make an adapter for the oil filter/accessories. The downside is that you trade off some of the engine bay clearance, but it bolts right onto the block.

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As for thermostatic plate. I was strongly advised by different engine builders to NOT use the Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. Reason for this being that it compeletely closes the bypass, and forces all of the oil go through the cooler and then to the engine, leading to oil pressure drops and premature bottom end failures. Instead, I'm using an OEM GM part (90231028) sourced from Opel Frontera, it circulates the oil in paralell fashion - even when open always sending oil straight to the oil gallery.

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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by KevinR » Sat Mar 31, 2018 12:47 pm

Hi Pietere
That's a very nice job you done on the sump . Some questions I wanted to ask you in the the oil adaptor plate . Firstly how do you seal it against engine ? Have you got an O- Ring groove machined on the side against engine and how do you seal the oil passage down the centre . Do you have dowel tube going into engine ?
On the 164 you have a dowel tube but on the 156 /166 they use a thin copper gasket which always leaks unless you put thin wipe of silicone on .

Next question on the mocul cooler from what I can see on mine is the oil always flows though the cooler but when its cold ( or even hot) the oil follows the least path of resistance in the sandwich adaptor and goes back into engine . So therefore you can't have a bypass failure . Maybe it's older type Moculs ?

I'm busy with my adaptor plate at moment trying to find solutions as in my questions above .
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by PietereQ » Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:04 am

Hi Kevin,
No grooves or whatsoever on the adapter plate. The stock part is also flat, so I figured it should work. I'm keeping the stock gasket as well, and as you mentioned, I'll probably use a thin coat of silicone to keep everything tight.
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by KevinR » Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:52 pm

Hi , I have looked at the original part and it has a very hard pressed in O ring . I was thing of doing something like this on my adaptor plate .
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Re: 166 24v into 116 GTV

Post by Jim K » Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:28 pm

Yes, this is my preferred way of doing it. I did the same with s 10mm spacer I had to use in my engine for the sandwich plate. In addition, I also had a lip machined inside to positively center it. No other means of fixing were used, just pressure from the sandwich plate center oil fitting. So, there were two rubber O-rings in total, one on the sandwich plate and one on my ring -no leaks ever. The 164 24v block has threads in the central hole.

Jim K.
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