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<  Performance  ~  166 24v into 116 GTV

PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 12:31 pm
User avatarPlatinumPlatinumJoined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:53 amPosts: 462Location: PL/NL
Hmm interesting, here's my part. There's only metal gasket sealing it against the block.

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What year is your engine? Mine's 2004.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 3:10 pm
GoldGoldJoined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 2:46 pmPosts: 175
That is strange as this part is from late model 166 phase two engine . It must have been a correction on these cars to stop the leak that occurs here . This reason I was wanting to machine groove for O ring .


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 5:56 pm
SilverSilverJoined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:56 amPosts: 1
Must be something in the air – I have also just started cutting out baffles to fit the 116 sump to a 166 24V:

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PietereQ: that CNC file for the splash plate will be very welcome :D – PM sent


I’m also heading down the “adapter” path for the oil filter – my engine has the o-ring:

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I sourced an adapter from a 4WD guy in the UK fitting a V6 into a rock crawler – this one repositions the oil filter back a little to allow use of the existing alternator if desired;

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Rather than using the metal gasket he went the o-ring route machining in a 2mm groove (second version adapter here – he decided to go with a dry sump – and DIY anodising - very clever guy!);

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Last edited by Davo on Fri Apr 13, 2018 3:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:20 am
GoldGoldJoined: Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:15 amPosts: 50
Another option for those interested in keeping the later hi output alternator is to remote mount the filter. It still means drilling and tapping the block but also means the the filter is now easily reached
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 4:46 am
User avatarPlatinumPlatinumJoined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:53 amPosts: 462Location: PL/NL
@ Davo, could you update your links? The pics aren't showing.

I'm little bit confused as to the flywheel installation on the 24V.
I have lightened GTV6 2,5L flywheel that I originally wanted to mate with the 3.0 24V. I know Alfa V6's are externally balanced. Now where the confusion starts:

Some people tell me to have my 2,5l flywheel zero balanced, bolt it on and forget about it.
Others tell me, that in order to make this work I need to have entire rotating assembly balanced.
Others tell me, to have my 2,5l flywheel match balanced with the original dual mass flywheel the engine came with.
And there's the group telling me to get 3.0l flywheel from 75/Milano, because it has correct counterweights to match the 3.0.

I know the best way is to go with full engine balancing, bobweights etc. but since I'm not touching the bottom end I don't really see any sense (financially speaking) to tear down the engine and have it balanced (My 24V is a low mileage motor)

So what are your suggestions, start looking for 3.0l flywheel, or can still make use of the one I have (2.5l)?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 8:09 am
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:56 amPosts: 775
I think you start with any flywheel as long as you have the balance factor right.

Discussion here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1140&start=45

Everything you said about getting it all done with bob weights and getting it all balance together is right. But I've seen cars with mismatched flywheels (i.e 24V installs in a Milano using a Milano 3.0 flywheel) run for years. It's not the right thing to do, but it works!! Would I do it? Hell no, but you should do what suites your situation.

What about this, borrow a spare 24V crank, and use bob weights to simulate the 24V pistons and rods, to balance your flywheel and pulley. After the job is done, return the crank and voila, you at least have a balanced flywheel for a 24V. Not ideal, but it is be better than just mounting an unbalanced flywheel.

BTW looking at this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1140&start=45

Just shows me how damn valuable this forum is. You won't find this on the FB groups. All pure fluff there.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:58 pm
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Sun May 08, 2005 11:56 pmPosts: 757Location: Netherlands
Copying the balance off the original flywheel is the easiest and best solution if you're not opening up the engine.



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 12:54 am
VerdeVerdeJoined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 12:10 amPosts: 1696Location: Athens,Greece
Easier said than done. Static balance is NOT enough. You must copy the dynamic balance and this will require some fabrication of a means to mount the flywheel on the balancer, plus an arm with a variable/movable weight on it which is to be mounted on the flywheel to achieve zero imbalance during the procedure. This arm will then have to be mounted on the new flywheel in exactly the same way. You can then balance the flywheel.

Jim K.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:55 am
User avatarVerdeVerdeJoined: Sun May 08, 2005 11:56 pmPosts: 757Location: Netherlands
It's not easy, that's for sure. But you don't have to open up the engine and it beats using an unbalanced 12v flywheel.

The balancing guy i used a few years ago did something like that. We even sacrificed an old 2.5 crank to fix the flywheel to. :)



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:14 pm
GoldGoldJoined: Sun Mar 20, 2016 2:46 pmPosts: 175
I found a place in the UK who could copy the balance factor from my GTV 6 flywheel onto my custom flywheel no problem.( this was for me front mount gearbox car ) In South Africa we have aircraft and race car balancing shop who did mine for me in an hour . They very sophisticated machines and it was like copy , paste . Simple as that .
You just gotta find right shop . I would find a single mass 3.0 24v flywheel to start so you can copy that to the GTV 6 flywheel .


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:03 am
User avatarPlatinumPlatinumJoined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:53 amPosts: 462Location: PL/NL
Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll be looking then for a proper balancing shop to have the flywheel match balanced.


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