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What about the std hydraulic tappets in the 24v? will they survive a regular 7800 rpm visit?

That's why I mention 7800rpm. During mapping of my 24v, the operator/programmer was listening for valvetrain noise (with a special headset) and said the lifters start pumping up at that particular rpm. I would say this rpm is also a function of oil type, temperature and cam profile. Anyway you take it though, 7800 is a lot of revs! For a race engine with mechanical followers and somewhat better springs, you can comfortable see much more, provided other engine components will support such revs.
Jim K.

I heard the same, max for our hydraulic lifter-ed engines is 7800rpm, i personally would/will set the limiter to 7600 max.
I agree that no porting is needed on 24v, just some port matching and cleaning of leftovers from casting (not much because its a good casting)

Jim, i have 2.5 24v engine at home (non worker, but heads ok) and a spare 3.0 head too.
I can send them to you for only the cost of postage (Slovenia to Greece)

Last I spoke to Beninca, he got 278 whp from a 3.0 24v @ 7800 rpm, stock plenum but special runners. But the car is said to have an appetite for bearings. A normal car would last 15-20 years, but the constant 7800 rpm redline shortened the life to just a few years. He also said the engine was rebuilt and redline lowered to 7400 rpm and the engine will last a lot longer. I think this is sort of common sense. So if you rev it hard to 7800 rpm all the time, don't expect it to last a lifetime.

Thanks Alan, I have a spare 3liter 24v (ex 164) which will become a 3.2 when I can finally afford to buy the 3.2 crank! Your 2.5 heads sound very interesting, but I suspect shipping costs from where you are would be suicidal!
I'm not at all surprised by that power as I believe its normal for those revs. I got 272hp a little lower down, ~7600. For street driving though, it'll be very unusual to hit 7600 unless you're totally nuts! Driving around town is just that: driving around town!
Regards,
Jim K.

There is a class of hydroplane / boats here in new Zealand that run the Alfa v6 cause of weight and ability to make good power. Quite a few of them are seeing 9000 rpm. For what I've found out they run essentially standard apart from solid lifters. Bigger cams. And tidied up ports. They are on itbs. I know of a couple that have fitted electric water pumps so can put an extra idler in the valley so they don't get valve bounce. Have heard of a few broken cranks but again that's shock loading as it jumps and slams back in the water.

How much power are we talking here?
About el. pump, some say it has to be on the same place as stock because of right water circulation. I really woldnt know, but i would like to run it too, because stock pump takes a few hp and rotates too fast on tuned engine.

@Jim, i'll check the postage...

I think BMW's electric pumps in the E90 6-cylinder is accessible from under the car. But the E46's mechanical pumps are at the front of the block. So placement may not be too critical. I could be wrong though....

I was thinking of buying an E90 waterpump as I've heard mixed reviews about the Davies Craig pump, but it seems that the E90 waterpumps aren't that reliable.

As my Accord CL9 Type S approaches 100K miles, I keep on wondering to myself, how come I don't have to replace anything yet??? My 164 Super already ate 2 serpentine belts this month. And scores of BMW owners cursing their water pumps

Anyway, Alan, what waterpump have you thought about? Davies Craig EWP with their fancy controller?

"The same place" refers to where in the circuit it's placed. So after the radiator and into the engine, geometric placement is as low in the circuit as possible.
Be very careful not to create any air locks! Air bubbles must be able to find it's way up to the expansion tank.

Well in my fwd car the only real place for it is around the gearbox.
I have a friend that works with different electric motors, i was thinking more of using the original water pump (wp) and put a motor instead of the pulley.

If i look at the pulleys the crank one is a little bigger than the wp. So wp rotates faster. I think that there is no need for 7-8000rpm on the wp so an electric motor with 5000 rpm would do. Plus is that when car is stationary (pit lane for example) pump rotates fast and cools the engine nicely. and if a temp switch is used it could be turned off when cold (faster warming of the engine in cold weather)

Uff really offtopic now

@ Jim
postage for 2 pieces of 2.5 heads would be less than 70 euros.

You're saying you have room for an electric motor in front of the WP on a FWD car? I'd say no way...
Are you thinking of routing a new belt in there, I'd say good luck...

This one has quite small direct drive motor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CSR-901LT1-LT1- ... 6972769%26

Yes but you are talking about converting an existing pump to electric and that is a completely different story than buying a bespoke electric pump.
Don't get me wrong, I'd love it if you can make it work but I'm also a realist...

Hehe well i'm realist too, but i like challenges. Still there are some negative reviews about electric pumps online, and i wonder too, how can 100W motor give enough power to flow the water around efficiently, when we know that much more power is needed.

A quick Google check shows electric water pumps draw ~5-7A which is not bad at all. However, I would prefer one with proportional speed control. The trick is to be able to combine the Alfa pump housing with the electric pump, placing the impeller in the correct position! Here is a very interesting article:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp ... uck_power/

Jim K.