Duk
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Duk »

Wow Kevin, enormous effort on the head gaskets alone!
Is there any reason why a copper head gasket isn't used?
I don't have any experience with copper head gaskets, but I figure they would be a straight forward choice. True/false?
kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Duk, its much easier for me to get these new gaskets to seal around the water and oil jackets. I would not know how to seal the copper gasket in this application. As long as your not in a rush its not much effort to develope this stuff. I must get some pics to update this car.Sadly its not a priority as race car always comes first.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

I can finally blame the tools. Due to leaking heads on my 3.7 I finally made head gaskets. Barry could not undrestand this as all his special big bore motors have never had a problem and the rings he uses bite perfectly into the heads.
Anyway assembled engine again with my new head gaskets and torqued it down progressively until 80nm. I admit i dont have the best feel when tightening things but I thought i would check my newish torque wrench out to Domingoes wrench. Sadly my 80nm is only 60nm , so I checked it with another and it is out. Most would say you should feel it was out but after pulling two studs out on my old block with 'feel' im a now little more conservative.
So now I am confident the old system would have been perfect as you need up to 90nm to get the rings on top of sleeves to bite into heads. BLAME THE TOOLS.
There is a pic, bit blurred to show a tiny 1mm shim that goes onto valve before origional hydraulic lifter goes on top.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Up date on my 3.7 motor. I ran it in slowly for 100km unti I noticed bubbles co ming into water bottle when you rev the motor which only meant one thing - LEAK. This leak only occured when engine was cold, but I retorqued up to 88nm according to manual and absolutely no problems 1000km later. According to gasket manufacturers these gaskests compress 10%. Have no idea what power its making but its a good ten car lenhts ahead of my 3.0 24v 164 by the end of secong gear !
Here are some pics of a real 3.7 24v from Glenwood. Why i say real is that it has used better rods than I have, higher compression, propper porting, individual throttles etc. Zamani here the rest of pics
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Doc.Alfa
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Doc.Alfa »

Nice looking engine, is those throttel bodies from AHM in the UK??
Thumbs up:))
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Doc, the intake runners are from AHM in uk but the throttle bodies and trumpets are local.
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mjr
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by mjr »

lovely. that engine is just begging to be fitted into a rear mounted chassis track car.

any idea what sort of power its making? inernal specs?
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Some updates already mentioned in ''Track and race car preperation ''.
Moved plenum to sidemount to make it interchangable with race car. Car is very reliable just need some cold start mapping.
Some interesting pics of plennum tubes 43mm versus 45mm. The actual gasket which joins tube to intake manifold is the same part number on all the alfas from 2.5 24v to 3.2 24v. Alfa made the port diameter large to start off with. See pic of both tubes and how the 43mm tube has been 'stretched'.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Pic of car at work. This 3.7 has been through alot of mileage these last two weeks with no oil or water consumption - now that head gaskets have been finally sorted out on my side.
Recap - the block was prepared by me with new studs as they had all pulled out. then Glenwood did the boring to fit larger sleeves, fitted GTA crank and Ross pistons - the hard part . Compression was kept mild at 10.5 as I run standard junk fuel we get here .
Head (valves ,shims gaskets manifolds etc) all done on my side.
Even though this engine has taken a major back seat due to race car , it is absolutely perfect now. Any issues i have had have all been from my side in my learning curve but thanks to solid sub assembly its handled all my f%$# ups I have put it through.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Just out of interest , I got exactly the same power output on dyno with the centre plenum which was made from two smaller ones as compared to the new side plenum with the long GTA runners. What I did notice was removing the airfilter on this set up gave me extra 8 kw . I found this previosly with old airbox hence I changed it. So now the trick is to find a less restrictive airfilter. This is the pic of the old centre plenum
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Made a adaptor for two pin idle control valve from a ford. in order to seal had to machine both face as . Was worried to tap into it. Works perfectly with new Gotech pro x.
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Mats
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Mats »

The stock airbox has a very badly designed exit pipe, has anybody tried to make that better and kept the rest of the box?

Arn't you worried that thing will crack from the vibrations?
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Zamani
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Zamani »

Have u seen the Beninca airbox? It has a 4" outlet.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Benincas box is definately the best . Go one step further and make two inlets to the airbox as there is space between splash guard to fit 3'' pipe to go down to front spoiler. Even if you sudenly go through deep water it wont go up as there are two intakes. Mats hose has to be very flexible as there is a lot of movement.
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Mats
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Mats »

I was talking about the Idle valve...
Mats Strandberg
-Scuderia Rosso- Now burned to the ground...
-onemanracing.com-
-Strandberg.photography-

GTV 2000 -77 - Died in the fire.
155 V6 Sport -96 - Sold!
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