kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Nah, the plennum rubbers take up all vibration. The idle valve thead goes a long way into plennum and very rigid other end. i have picked up problems before with silicone hose to airbox as that hose did not flex enough.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

You can't reallly call this an update as my 3.7 is in storage but initially when I started this thread my aim was to build ( glenwood sub assembly) this motor for 10 000km for hard road use . Been over 7 years ago when i started and things did change as I did 4000 km testing in road car and then when I imagined my driving skills had improved I put it into the race car . It was major leap in power over my modified 3.0 24v which at times scared the crap out of me on tiny 205mm semi slick tyres through 170 km/h sweeps but the power was far more predictable as the their was no power band like the high revving 3.0 .
The most I revved the 3.7 to on the track was 6000rpm mainly to save gearbox (sanity) and their was no other car around with that acceleration until now As i see from last race times theirs a twin turbo GTV ( powemods911) that's now .5 of a second quicker . Thank goodness I immigrated just in time :D I also believe this twin turbo will also find another two seconds . Hopefully Jose will comment as he has just joined forum . Side note , Jose brother twin turbo should be 7 seconds faster as that is a serious big bore 24v tt but we await for his return.
So in the end the motor has been very reliable after two hard race seasons uses hardly any oil and is still delivering huge power . Maybe the motor is on borrowed time now but the oil change always looks clean . Can only wait and see when car arrives to uk .
I do know my sub assembly was using the Ross pistons with 0.11 clearances compared to the current conversions using Woesner pistons and rings with 0.08 clearances and sleeves sourced from UK . (Fordson) .
I did a cambelt change as I run a fixed tensioner and 3years had passed .even though the mileage was low as on this link
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3576&start=300

. Also warming up was also a fast idle to reduce slap when cold . I think I will have to put the thermostat back in in Uk as it will NEVER warm up . ( I'm sure md will give me the thermostat lecture again)
Anyway just an update on 3.7 reliability .
Last edited by kevin on Sun Mar 24, 2013 3:53 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Mats
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Mats »

3 1/2 year later he replies... :lol: :wink:
Mats Strandberg
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kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Mats , battre sent an aldrig :D as my Swedish Masseuse says . :)
Pics of GTV 3.0 where the 3.7 motor went into from final 2012 Nov race .
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kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

And with TT in sights :D , while overtaking cobra on outside .
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PowerMods911
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by PowerMods911 »

Kevin, pity you moved when you did, should have waited another 2 weeks so we could have had one last race (without you being 2.5 sec faster) a more evenly balanced race. Finally I'd be able to focus on racing rather than having to make my car as wide as possible coming into table top to "discourage" :twisted: your thoughts of overtaking, not that ever stopped you.
GTV6 2.8 TT Race Car
GTV6 3.0 White
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GTV6 2.5 RIP (donor)
kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Don't get to complacent . I will be back to fetch other car and maybe squeeze in a race .
Mats his number is 911 as he dials this when he sees me approaching :D
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by powermods69 »

Kevin we will just turn up the boost for jose you will be no competion
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by Joemart »

Bla, Bla, Bla..

:wink:

(Just Jealous)
kevin
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

Not gonna ask how you got your number ! All that 2.8 TT needs is 3.0 valves on that 2.5 head and more boost then every one is in trouble .
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by 75evo »

Kev,

Can big rods be fitted without block clearance problem with the 3.2 crank? For the 3.7 you use a 3.2 crank, so I'm assuming it's not even an issue with big beefy rods?

Asking because cost of big rods aren't too expensive. And prepped rods + new rod bolts are about 1/2 the price of new forged rods. Almost seems a no brainer.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

The rods are all the same size . But the gta crank does cause the rod bolt on no 6 to scrape the sump due to extra throw . As you know the sump is very shallow over the steering rack . It needs about 2mm to be removed from sump . So what you do is put some wet paint on rod bolts and then put sump on with gasket with two bolts just to keep it on and then rotate engine to see where it touches . Then remove with dremmel .
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75evo
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by 75evo »

thanks Kev. But I was thinking of maxspeeding, THS or one of those big forged rods. So even with stock rods, the extra throw of the GTA crank is causing a little bit of problem with the stock pan? I'll keep that in minds for cyl #6.

But what about of of the racing 24V big bores Dawie or you built? Do the big rods (not stock GTA rods) have any problem with the block?

I was also thinking of removing the square section at the edge of the big and small end. Jim removed them. But once you get into machine work for the rods, the cost of prepping stock rods starts to shoot up and getting new rods becomes even less of an issue.

Just thinking of it this way. Stock rod prep labor $300 (machining, balancing, resize each end, etc), stock rod bolts $180. Total $480. New aftermarket forged rods $650 with ARP bolts. Would be foolish to use old rods at this point. Especially since I intend to push it to 7500 rpm. I'm pretty sure if I put these rods in, I'll unlikely have a rod poking out the block anytime soon, even at high revs. Heck even stock rods are ok for the occasional 7500 rpm runs.

The only thing that is holding me back from getting the aftermarket forged rods is serious rod and block clearance issues.
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by kevin »

On my big bore and my gta Conversion in 164 block i used standard new rods. There were no problems with clearance as the skirts are different on gta piston . The big bore apart the normal block machining I don't remember any extra work one . I know Dawie uses Pauter and various other aftermarket rods but I would have to ask him . Only problem I now live 10 000 km from him .
There are a lot of modified 3.2gta running around maybe they would be able to give answers other forums but I doubt there would be any clearance problems .
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75evo
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Re: 3.7 24v Build in 116 GTV

Post by 75evo »

Any opinions on forged Maxspeeding rods? Judging by the price/performance it's a winner. Stock rod prep and new rod bolts will be almost the price of these big rods.

Only issues are rod offset which is not really an issue as the thickness on the small and big ends are the same, and the other one is the 3.2 block to rod clearance which isn't that big of a deal.
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