ALFAGTV6.COM

Thanks Z. Sorry cant give any info on cams, that belongs to B and Dawie.
But I will tell you how it works once engine is in.

that's understandable.

Here are my 24v headers.

Those look great. Are you going to bolt them to the heads or have studs ?
By the way on the race car motor 166 3.0 24v we are not allowed to run dry sumps.

kevin wrote:A 60-2 pickup sensor is used but as soon as you press the ring onto the pulley it either touches the cam belt or waterpump pully so both ahd to be machined. The pickup only needs a 3mm area so i was well within limits.

Is the pickup ring from a 164 pulley?

la_strega_nera wrote:

kevin wrote:A 60-2 pickup sensor is used but as soon as you press the ring onto the pulley it either touches the cam belt or waterpump pully so both ahd to be machined. The pickup only needs a 3mm area so i was well within limits.

Is the pickup ring from a 164 pulley?

Good work finding this thread! I can't say, just want to offer that I placed a spacer behind the water pump pulley in order to line up with the 164 crank. Thinking the spacer was 1/16, that is 1.5 mm.

Just another pic of a 24v into a gtv. Nice intake .Interesting bodykit and another pretty conversion . From a glance the newer chain driven pump type engines you can tell by the aluminium bracket that holds the centre idler bearing versus the steel bracket from the 164 .
Note the motor directly below ( from 166) has an extensively modified pick to fit the standard GTV sump on it . Normally you need to add a 20mm laser cut spacer between pan and sump to do this .( mentioned earlier )

Holy crap what an engine!

Never read the answer to the question, were you able to get in front of the other Alfa's with your 24v engine?

Melv , it's a nice intake but the plennum is not great . Needs to be a tapered plennum like all the rest of us have. I know this is still work in progress and I'm sure he will improve on his plennum design.
With regards to my 24 v replacing my 12 v 2.5 it was gigantic improvement up the field from being midfield of 45 cars to top 4.
But also came the carnage of gearboxes.

That looks beautiful!!

How big is the throttle body pipe? Looks massive.

Can we please have more pictures?

Great work, hmm, hmm.

Hi , few guys have asked in lastvfew months for step by step procedure of what's involved in this conversion . Note the 164 24v is slightly easier to do . Note if using a GTA crank it will scrape slightly onto sump by 2mm by one of the rod bolts. So always hand turn motor when assembled to check .
166 24v 3.0 engine(Chain Driven oil pump) summary into 116 GTV
1)Rear crank spacer 3mm
2)Sump pan spacer 20mm or custom sump
3)Oil filter stud 20x1.5 - need to tap and glue in with EXTREME strength epoxy- make sure use oil filter with matching pitch and thick o-ring as steel rim of filter catches block . Note the centre on oil channel on block is not recessed like the 164 so don't use nut on stud . It will catch filter.
4)Alternator bracket and std gtv alternator with spaced pulley wheel . Use original attachment to block with only 2 bolts. Use a 5pk belt.
5)Water Reticulation - block heads at back, machine alm bracket at front to attach gtv (modified thermostat housing) for the short pipes. Don't take to much off as it will weaken. Can alos tap off the back with 6mm pipe .
6) Press trigger wheel onto pulley. Either machine thin so alternator belt does not touch or space water pump pulley by 5mm. This is ok if us 5pk belts
7)Custom exhausts
Custom plennum
9)Make sure breathers are connected to both banks.
10)Should move oil filler cap with extension away from brake booster between cam lobes to avoid leaking out cap from splashing.
11) Engine mounts - tap into block
12) New ecu

I will edit as I remember other mods. Also note you can take water out back of engine and pipe
to front . I preferred not to as I liked the look of the original GTV style set up ......
BUT its actually far easier and you keep the cam belt overs on for extra protection against stones coming in . Also you then get an aftermarket trigger wheel which you attach to front of pulley with a custom pick up sensor bracket .
Another noted advantage is you don't have to machine the aluminium bracket around the idler bearing which can weaken it and result in failure ( but only ever seen that once)

Will also try find pics as well.

Seeing this starts out as a 3.2liter V6, here's a pic of the CPS forged piston vs the std 3.2 item.
I just got them couple of days ago and they are meant for the elusive 3.2liter I will build, sometime in the not too distant future...
The plan is to make it as bulletproof as possible with the best parts and aim for a specific output of ~95-100hp/liter. It may sound like a tall order but I believe its achievable even with one throttle plate. This (self-imposed) spec, limits the type of cams which -lets not forget- must be suitable for everyday driving.

Jim K.

Why no ITB? Sort of an austerity measure?

Btw, this is CPS in Italy not CP in California right?

The CPS looks like nothing less than 12:1

Yes, CPS Italy. I think they mentioned something ~10.5:1 but I'm not sure or concerned, as I will set at ~11.5:1 during the build. There's no problem milling the heads by even more than 1mm.
I forgot to mention complete piston weight (with pin and rings) is 500.8gr after weight equalization/balancing vs 531gr of the std items.
Why not ITB's? Not at this stage, maybe later on. I'm not looking for the max power this engine can give -I never do. I want an everyday driver and one that will work with only remapping the std Bosch ecu from the 164Q4 I now have (I got 4 of these ecu's!)
Btw, I am also waiting for an Emerald K6 ecu, which will be used for the 3liter and 3.2liter engines. It will just have a very short adapter/connector to the factory harness ecu connector. This should be an interesting project! Is it going to make more power than the properly remapped std ecu?

Jim K.

What kind of rings would fit? Standard GTA or can I use total seal. I like the gapless total seal, works well on my JEs.