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75evo · Post by **75evo** » Sat Oct 19, 2013 11:34 pm

haha now can you imagine those of use who don't even have the splined ones?!

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 6:47 am

Or those of us who can't remove the bearing support bracket...

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:18 am

Duk , I got one cage , pm me your email address.

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 2:42 am

Hey Kevin.

When i look at te Paul spreull motor site it says a couple of times that the cages don't beef up the donut... I'm a bit worried to take the time and efford to produce them now. Could it be that your perfect engine alignment does do the trick..?

Also thinking of producing a sollid aluminium block with rubber/PU inserts for donut replacement.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:36 am

I guess it all depends on the type of cage an how much moment you allow . So if you take a standard coupling vs one with a cage around it , I believe its infinitely better for reasons
1) the cage holds the coupling so tight that the rubber cannot elongate continuously which leads to small cracks then finally a large crack
2) the slots on the cage limit the twist as the bolts hit the sides . Hit may be an exaggeration but the marks are there . This proved to me the coupling moves 20 mm which is frightening . If it was not confined when it moved that 20mm then I think it would have burst .

I got a sample of the cage about 10 years ago from one of the 75 Imsa cars which I copied and reproduced about 20 copies for my mates who race with me So we all could have reliable racing and eliminate weak areas . Its not a business for me thats why i never adrvertised or sold them to anyone outside our racing circle . It really worked well for me with not even a hairline crack on really hard racing for 7 years . And its still on my car I sold in January which has just done another season with a proper driver this time .
However I have heard they don't work so well on the 105 series but then I dont know the tolerances their made .

Its really important to get the engine into alignment and put a rubber bushed engine stay ( brace) on even though I'm one of the only guys doing this .
Out of interest

Here is a pic of the ultimate coupling next to the one I made . Note the flat surface on edge of cage to allow the surfaces to " rub " against each other . Also when its tight their is 4mm gap between the two to allow for engine twisting . The welds don't affect balance .

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Fri Nov 01, 2013 2:34 pm

Thanks for the nice explanation! Realy appreciate it.

You don't have any drawings for them.that would be great !
Think an engine brace also would be good for me. Engine mounts last a lot longer that way.

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Sat Nov 02, 2013 10:58 am

Someone experience with th helix clutch plates? Clutch is barely up to the job also.

http://www.performanceclutch.co.uk/30lt ... 500461.php

Today i disassembled the clutch. Lots of dust in it. The surfices where not evenly weared...

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:06 am

You can see the outside has less wear.

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:35 am

Rework in progress

Damn it was wobbely . 0.3mm surface flatness. Think this should do the trick for the slippage issue.Does anybody know or the cutch assembly is dynamacly or stataslicy ballanced?

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Tue Nov 05, 2013 11:46 am

My clutches were dynamically balanced with clutch plates out . Make sure their is no play in the holes in the pressure plates that the bolts go through . As this can effect balance when you reassemble with clutch plates in . I would change the bearings in the housing as they must have play in after all that shuddering . They really cheap . Once clutch is tight in housing with yoke on etc put it in a vice and check again for any play in housing . ( grip the yoke in vice and hold onto the housing with two hands and check . )

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Tue Nov 05, 2013 12:18 pm

Oke, nice info! Pity it is dynamacly ballanced. If it wasn't i could do it at work...
Maybe just spin it up unbalanced in stages of 500 rpm till 7000rpm and see if i'm lucky that it is still in ballance. If there is no vibration a guess it is oke . Just have to fix it verry well.

Mats · Post by **Mats** » Tue Nov 05, 2013 12:47 pm

There should be dowel pins in the flywheel for the pressure plate, the bolts should have no radial contact. Meaning there will be some play.

kevin · Post by **kevin** » Wed Nov 06, 2013 12:00 am

On my v6 clutch their no pins . You just line all the marks ups which are about2mm thick which obviously corresponds to a bolt pattern . I had a pressure that had worn the bolt holes due to bolts that had come loose somewhere in its life time . The guys I used were absolute perfectionist so they always used to recheck the unit after stripping in it and assembling in front of me to show it could go out . I guess this was an extreme example but it caught me off guard . Eventually we made another much finer alignment mark about .25 mm wide which we worked off .
Company I used in SA were these guys just incase anyone in SA is reading .
http://www.balancing.co.za/index.php?body=auto

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:41 am

Mats wrote:There should be dowel pins in the flywheel for the pressure plate, the bolts should have no radial contact. Meaning there will be some play.

Yes they are there. Look at the picture of the clutch housing!

gtv-racer · Post by **gtv-racer** » Thu Nov 07, 2013 1:02 pm

I had a look at the workshop manual today. It say's it has to be staticly balanced at 10g-cm. At a radius of 12.5 cm that's 0.8gram

. How about dust and the wear i had now... It's a lot less then what stick's to the toiletpaper on a good day

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