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- Gold
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:34 pm
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Unkown Water Pump Gasket
I am looking at the gaskets I got for my GTV6 water pump. I have two regular gaskets that I understand. One goes between the pump and block and the other goes between the pump and thermostat housing. The one that has me stumped appears to be made out of metal. When I took the water pump and thermo housing apart I don't remember seeing a similiar gasket. It is called WATER PUMP UNION GASKET V6 and the part number on the package is 60615713. When I took the pump off I did not see a similar metal gasket. Terry Johnston
Terry
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- Silver
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- Location: St. Paul, MN
Why bother with a gasket when you have acess to the best sealer ever made-Loctite gray silicon-I dont use gaskets on the sump,w/pump/thermo housings or any other places except of course headgaskets...It gaurentees a seal-period.Some German gray silicon also good-but the made in USAis best-dow corning I think...
Barry
Barry
French cars are shit and shit expensive to service and bloody awful and unreliable and expensive and friends don't let friends drive french cars and you wait years for parts.
- ALFA GTV6 GP
- Platinum
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- Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 1:26 am
- Location: Western Australia
Check this out!
Air to Water intercooler kit for 1.8 turbo 40 litres per minute rated to 300 hp .
what work would be required to fit a 2.0 twinspark 75 motor?
Thanks John
Air to Water intercooler kit for 1.8 turbo 40 litres per minute rated to 300 hp .
what work would be required to fit a 2.0 twinspark 75 motor?
Thanks John
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Alfa 75 3.0 qv potenziata (Black)
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Silver)
Alfa GTV6 GP 3.0 (Red)
Alfa GTV6 GP (Concourse)
Alfa GTV6 SA 3.3 AHMotorsport (Grey) 226.3 Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Dark Grey) 200+ Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Silver)
Alfa GTV6 GP 3.0 (Red)
Alfa GTV6 GP (Concourse)
Alfa GTV6 SA 3.3 AHMotorsport (Grey) 226.3 Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Dark Grey) 200+ Bhp atw
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- Verde
- Posts: 1552
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- ALFA GTV6 GP
- Platinum
- Posts: 208
- Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 1:26 am
- Location: Western Australia
OK I got flamed !
Sorry Terry.
I thought Barry answered it "Why bother with a gasket when you have acess to the best sealer ever made-Loctite gray silicon-I dont use gaskets on the sump,w/pump/thermo housings or any other places except of course headgaskets...It gaurentees a seal-period.Some German gray silicon also good-but the made in USA is best-dow corning I think... "
I posted under the last cooling system thread I should have started a new one .
Sorry Terry.
I thought Barry answered it "Why bother with a gasket when you have acess to the best sealer ever made-Loctite gray silicon-I dont use gaskets on the sump,w/pump/thermo housings or any other places except of course headgaskets...It gaurentees a seal-period.Some German gray silicon also good-but the made in USA is best-dow corning I think... "
I posted under the last cooling system thread I should have started a new one .
Alfa 75 3.0 qv potenziata (Black)
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Silver)
Alfa GTV6 GP 3.0 (Red)
Alfa GTV6 GP (Concourse)
Alfa GTV6 SA 3.3 AHMotorsport (Grey) 226.3 Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Dark Grey) 200+ Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Silver)
Alfa GTV6 GP 3.0 (Red)
Alfa GTV6 GP (Concourse)
Alfa GTV6 SA 3.3 AHMotorsport (Grey) 226.3 Bhp atw
Alfa GTV6 3.0 (Dark Grey) 200+ Bhp atw
There's an excellent RTV sealant for all kinds of car applications, Dow Corning 3145RTV, grey in color. Its good from -65*C to 300*C and one welcome benefit is it does not smell (no acetic vapor release). Its also primarily recommended for electronics applications, since the no-acid feature does not corrode component terminals.
Again, as Barry said, I only use factory gaskets in heads, valve covers and oil pans (this last one could probably do without a gasket, but there are other considerations too, like oil pickup clearance for example.
Speaking of RTV, I would like to add something to a recent discussion about rear bearing caps and their rubber plugs: I never use those rubber plugs. After torquing the cap in place, I inject RTV in the adjacent holes using the sealant gun nozzle pressed on the lips, until it squeezes out of the cap/block mating surfaces. Watch for sealant squeezing out the rear where the crank seal goes. A prerequisite for all this is to have all cap/block surfaces spottless clean and dry, or the sealant will not adhere properly. When this procedure is done, then the crank seal goes in place, after coating the ribbed outside surface with a thin film of sealant also.
Jim K.
Again, as Barry said, I only use factory gaskets in heads, valve covers and oil pans (this last one could probably do without a gasket, but there are other considerations too, like oil pickup clearance for example.
Speaking of RTV, I would like to add something to a recent discussion about rear bearing caps and their rubber plugs: I never use those rubber plugs. After torquing the cap in place, I inject RTV in the adjacent holes using the sealant gun nozzle pressed on the lips, until it squeezes out of the cap/block mating surfaces. Watch for sealant squeezing out the rear where the crank seal goes. A prerequisite for all this is to have all cap/block surfaces spottless clean and dry, or the sealant will not adhere properly. When this procedure is done, then the crank seal goes in place, after coating the ribbed outside surface with a thin film of sealant also.
Jim K.