ALFAGTV6.COM

hmmm. currently have my 83 gtv in bits, rebuilding calipers, brake lines, and gear selector rods out for mods, etc. I was speaking to a local specialist about a small caliper problem, and mentioned I was modyfing gear selection too.

His reaction was, " why bother!? just install Shankle sure shift Kit, it produces great results!".

I questioned the Kits effectiveness from stuff I have read, but he insisted
that it produced excellent results.?? I thaught that the sure shift Kit wasnt particularly effective for the money!? Anyone confirm or deny?

I have a simple answer for you.

I have never seen the kit so I cannot comment about it directly.

What I will say to help you is that if the kit does not reduce the length of the selector crank, it may change the the way the set up works but it will not necessarily be of any material worth.

Pivot point of the selector (locating ball)and the length of th crank are the 2 elements that must change. The rest is cosmetics.

Md,


after some hunting around yesterday, I managed to find some pictures of the sure shift set up, and as far as I can see, it just has better bushings in it, no change to the pivot point or selector crank, which backs up my original thaughts about that kit. Jus

t out of interest, where you intruduced the offset centre coupling in the rod, (to allow you to cut off a fai sized chunk from the selector crank). Thats a big chunk you have taken off of the crank!, that must have made a huge difference to the gate distances, since you have reduced the length significantly.

mjr

What you are trying to do many have tried before and understandably so. It is THE major fault with these cars that reduces the joy of using them.This is simply due to the wrong lever ratios determined by the factory in the first place or to put more simply, a foul up.

To fix the problem is not for the faint hearted nor the purist. If you need or insist to have the car look and be original, you will never fix it.

To address the problem, you essentialy need to lenghten the selector below the fulcrum as in my example or the better one, in Daniels example. This helps with the length of the throw. You then need to shorten the gate by reducing the length of the crank as I have shown.

If you do both of the above, you will achieve a shorter throw and shorter gate. Having said that, you will also immediately create numerous problems starting with console fit followed by having to reshape the long selector rod in the transmission tunnel so there is no fouling of the tunnel or the shaft.

All depends on how determined you are.

I hope that gives you a better overview.

couldn't give a monkeys about originality , since this mod improvement overrides that setiment big time. I have a good handle on what is required, and have already started to address the throw issue, with the modification of the stick and mount (decided not to go for Daniels mod, due to the work required on the centre console afterwards), I was just surprised by how much you can get away with removing from the crank, its almost all of it! Just highlights how rubbish the original set up really is.! looking forward to a better drive very soon!

has anyone tried going to a more modern setup useing a cable shifter?...its what i was thinking of doing on my project....useing longer cables but a custom shortened dodge neon shifter.....had great results in my caravan

Now whatever happened to the bb member (in Oz?) some many moons ago who had worked out a ball jointed shift system (tested and all, with pictures too) and only required the time/money to manufacture it in quantity? Anyone remember that? Id you are you still out there mate, perhaps you could post the drawings/details for someone else to get the project completed.

Wasn't that MD? There are pics on this site too I believe...

As I recall there was a poll on whether people would pay $700 Aus for the setup. Made in WA. I have some pics of it somewhere but I'm not sure if it's still on the site. It was on the old GTV6.org forum I think.

Yeah as Mats says my GTV6 set up is on this and the old site. My design is free but you gotta make it. Should set you back $150 tops AUD for bits and pieces. Start by modifying and using a shifter from any front wheel drive Toyota...

Yes the other design which I have never seen came from Western Australia but has gone the way of the Dodo. Disappeared like methane in a loose pair of shorts.

That kit is on Stephen's car in Perth, WA. HIs mechanic had designed it using a cad system and was using Stephen's car as a prototype. However, his mechanic's business took precedence and he never got to producing more of the kit and I'm not sure if he will anymore. Stephen's shift is excellent and shifts like a modern sports car should.......pity it's only a one off

BTW, has anyone noticed a difference in shift linkages and bushes between a 1983 GTV6 and 1984 or later non isostatic shifter? I took a look under both and the 1983 model has slight differences where the torsion bars meet the chassis body. Also, the lower part of the shifter rod where it meets the linkage has a much smaller bush and sleeve. I believe it is the same as used on early alfettas and giuliettas. Is this only peculiar to Australian GTV6 models? My 1985 GTV6 has a july 1985 compliance and is non isostatic.....

What if you dont mess with the front shifter and housing....will you still be able to have the advantage of the isostatic shift mechanism minus shortend shift throw??? In other words more accurate shifts, but not necessarily in a shorter amount of time.

Reason being is I would rather have more accurate shifts and not necessarily faster ones....

Is the extra lower shift rod length below the housing ABSOULTELY necessary???

Anybody done this 'half' conversion??

more accurate shifts with the isostatic? That sounds pretty unbelievable.
Extra joints almost always mean more play and slop.

wasn't that the whole point of the system??