Fortis621: Ask the local fast guys at your track for frequencies (which is universal between cars) and work backwards from that, seems like european tracks are a lot different from your in terms of bumpiness and surface texture so any recommendation from me will probably be too stiff.
Dennis: You should try and read also, not just look at the pretty pictures... ;D
"The car was already built with coilover option in mind. My shock mounts, both front and back, have been heavily reinforced with the cage extending to the mount at the rear."
generally camber curve won't change dramatically when dropping the front down, what happens is that the roll center drops way low and causes the front end to be very roll-weak, which is why a lot of people lower the rear roll centre too to compensate, this is not as good as raising the front one because it will make the whole car roll-weak.
The better solution would be to raise the front roll center to make the car stiffer in roll, then you don't need the extra 10Kg with a bigger rollbar...
And THAT is why I always nag about getting the front set up before doing major work at the rear. The rear is fine, the front is not.
BTW: Dennis, that price is a joke for custon control arms. You should shop around a bit and ask your local machine/welding shop, if you show up with a drawing with material specs it should cost a tenth of that.
I second that opinion about the cage work, looks top notch.
But you must be very short with that location of the main hoop, from memory mine is about 10cm behind the B-pillar...
==> definitely BANNED!
