ALFAGTV6.COM

Hi- Sorry for not checking the site sooner- I used a radiator from Howe, number 34127F12. The dimensions are here: http://www.howeracing.com/Radiators/Index-Radiators-Table.htm The folks at http://www.alumrad.com/index.html can make any changes to the inlet and outlet as you like. The radiator above...

Hello-
Thanks for the info, Mike!
The carbon fiber driveshaft has been performing well. I had a bad front donut, which was causing my vibration problem. Since its replacement, I have had no issues!

-Al

If you look at how the original switches were wired, I think you will see that they were set up in series, so that both switches needed to be "on" to complete the circuit. So, once you remove the old switches, you should be left with two wires. Connecting them together should energize the ...

Well, since we are on the subject . . . What I did (back when I still used the stock Alfa MC), was to get adapters that converted the (as I recall) M10 x 1.0 fittings to 37 degree flares. Porterfield sells them, but I am sure they are available elsewhere. Then I either: a) made hardlines as I needed...

The way I see it is this: If you (or someone else) turns the knob accidently, or you don't recall where you left it, you need to be able to return the settings to a "known good" point. That alone is worth the install. Weight is trivial, use the mini gauges. Plumbing is really the only issu...

You know, this is exactly why I plumbed gauges into the front and rear systems. When I go to set the bias, I stand on the brake pedal until I have 1000psi on the front system (I do this in the paddock with the car stopped, of course :lol: ). Then I read the rear gauge (600psi seems to work well), an...

Hello- I agree with you absolutely, weight loss can really change handling, depending on where it is lost (or moved). Especially unsprung. Anyway, about the cage-good question, since I did not weigh my car before we put the cage in. Easy(ish) to figure out, as long as you know the weight per foot of...

By the way, if you change the crystal in that box, you can alter the advance curve, and up the rev limit.

I think the stock static timing is 2 degrees before TDC for the 2.5L and 7 for the 3.0. There is a discussion about the part throttle ignition advance rationale here: http://www.cdxautowiki.org/index.php?title=Spark_timing There is NO performance advantage at WOT. I did dyno runs with it hooked up, ...

I took apart a distributor and found that the Hall sensor mount pivots in response to vacuum. It is spring loaded. The easiest thing to do would be to simply disconnect the vacuum line. I also modified a distributor with a small bolt, that fixed the position of the Hall sensor. I know that with the ...

The 1986 GTV6 uses two separate advance systems. The EZ-L system controls advance based on RPM, and throttle switch (no throttle=retard 2 degrees). There is also input from a temp sensor, but the factory recommended disconnecting it. For the transient throttle state, there is a vacuum capsule on the...

Exactly!
Besides, using the handbrake just makes the rear pads wear out faster.
It is those stupid, leaky adjusters that I was really happy to be rid of.
-Al

If you don't need a handbrake, there are some less clunky and 1.5lb lighter VW calipers that go right on, and use the same pads. No adjusters.

You can also use big sockets and allthread to press the new bearing in.
An impact wrench makes the hub nut easy.

Jose,
You don't have to drill a hole in the floor for the direct shifter mod. You do, however, have to drill a hole in the bulkhead under the front edge of the back seat.
It really makes a GREAT shifter, though!!
-Al