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Thanks Zamani, all these pieces of information are needed. Naturally there are arising few question about what really happened on that engine. I assume it was in good condition, but what kind of oil was used, and was it on rwd car with rwd oil pump, or fwd car with cam belt or chain driven pump?

Hard question. Prefer never, but after 10 hours on full speed on race track could been hardly tolerated. There are 3/8" and 7/16" bolts with 220 000 psi and 260 000 psi ratings available, but should know the forces first..

Have someone done stress analysis for the rod bolts? If running 72.6mm stroke and 10 000 krpm with let's say 30% lighter piston, how strong bolt are needed? Pistons get over 5000 g's, it's simple to calculate forces from that, but the rest of them aren't that straight forward..

The reason for this added imbalance lies in the construction type of the crankhaft. The v6 is basicaly a 2x 3 zylinder straight construction and because when cyl 1 is up, on the opposite side no. 2 and 3 are down and vice versa(3 up, 2 and 1 down). This would cause a strong vibration when running( ...

Those throttle bodies looks always so so cool. Nice headers too.

Up to 10 krpm would be nice.

If making reinforcement and new sump, the dry-sump would be natural step to take. If not going to that, then original oil system might do the job, or nobody knows really, or does?

Almost done.


Hurricane Racing used bottom plate to add some rigidity on the block and on the main bearing caps. Is that really needed? Have anyone heard about failing blocks or other problems related to that? Any experiences?

That's true Mike. I left still plenty of safety margin on my wheel. If I would like to loose last hundreds of grams, then the scatter shield would be important. Now the axle coupling is probably more prone to explode and cause problems than the fly-wheel. Using scatter shield could be good idea beca...

Let's see if belts hold on longer with this arrangement.

If it's made of good quality steel, there shouldn't be any problems. I have quite similar on my racer too. We've seen few times pictures about seriously lightened cast wheels, and those could been considered dangerous.

The torque is straight Nm values on right hand axis. Slotted green line stays below 200Nm.

Why not in Finnish? :lol: If I shift up from 3 to 4 at 6500rpm, the engine speed drops to 5000rpm. The 6500 is still easy driving shift point at track. If trying to go fast, the shift will be done around 7000rpm, which means it drops to ca. 5400rpm. Now if looking those graphs, the engine is 190Nm@4...

Update from last spring. Some more tuning and it looks like this:
http://jakita.com/pics/Tehokuva-09.jpg

These small pieces of information might be more valuable than you could imagine. I've started modeling double belt cam drive configuration, thinking internal engine balancing and some other mods related to this belt issue.. It would turn out quite costly for sure.. If the belt is slipping, then it's...

Maybe two guide bearings between banks? The right block exhaust belt contact needs some modification too. Would it be so simple? Just add some more contact area and that's it? If the slipping is the only problem, then there's some hope.

Other experiences? SA guys??